Running cables under the van (1 Viewer)

[Dave K]

I have bought a 2000w inverter to install in our Pilote motorhome and I need to site it away from the battery, this is due to the fact that the batteries are fitted under the forward facing dinette seat but it's also the area where all the electrics and the heater is housed so there's no room. I intend to fit the inverter in the storage space in the seat base of the seat inside the door, the shortest route would be under the van but I'm just checking if this is feasible to run cables under the van and what to house them in, would a PVC conduit or trunking be sufficient or do I need to find something more substantial, if it is indeed plausible to do it anyway.
Dave

 

[Silver-Fox]

You can run it in the flexible ducting and clip or tie wrap it to the chassis.
Obviously up as high as possible to keep out of harms way

 

[Minxy]

You could use some hose pipe which tends to be more flexible and easier to bend than ducting, I used some to protect the flexible gas pipe (stainless steel braided) when I ran outside to my external filling point - the hose pipe 'cover' is the green 'snake' in the photo!

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[Riverbankannie]

I remember reading that with a big inverter you need to keep as short a run as possible and use big cables.

https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/inverter-question.154102/#post-2369667

 

[Lenny HB]

Last van I ran mains from inverter under the van and 12v & video cables under the van. Used convoluted split conduit easy to us as you can fit after you have run the cables. Obviously the mains and low voltage cables need to be in separate conduit.

 

[Wissel]

I remember reading that with a big inverter you need to keep as short a run as possible and use big cables.

https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/inverter-question.154102/#post-2369667

This. Plus the longer the cable, the thicker it needs to be (a lot thicker from memory)

Think if it were me putting cabling under the van I'd want it well protected against any debris etc. Maybe aluminium conduit?

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[Dave K]

I remember reading that with a big inverter you need to keep as short a run as possible and use big cables.

https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/inverter-question.154102/#post-2369667

Yes indeed, unfortunately as described there's no room adjacent to the batteries so this is the nearest place I can put the inverter, I'll just need to get the appropriate cables

 

[Dave K]

Last van I ran mains from inverter under the van and 12v & video cables under the van. Used convoluted split conduit easy to us as you can fit after you have run the cables. Obviously the mains and low voltage cables need to be in separate conduit.

Thanks Lenny, would I need to separate the 2 live cables and 2 neutrals or are they ok in together?

 

[Silver-Fox]

This. Plus the longer the cable, the thicker it needs to be (a lot thicker from memory)

Think if it were me putting cabling under the van I'd want it well protected against any debris etc. Maybe aluminium conduit?

No need for Ali etc

Most pipes and cabling under your van will be the flexible conduit.
Comes in a roll in either black or white.
Available from electrical merchants or screwfix.
From memory it's round 20 odd mm dia.

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[DBK]

I used this page to identify cable size. http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html
For example, if the one way distance of the cables was 3m then you would need to use 25mm cable as a minimum. I bought the cables from these folk, service was quick and the cables themselves were very flexible, even in the 25mm size. https://www.electricalcarservices.com/battery-leads-made-to-order/c-p-0-0-535
They also sell stainless steel clips which I used to secure the cables.

 

[Lenny HB]

Thanks Lenny, would I need to separate the 2 live cables and 2 neutrals or are they ok in together?

You can run all the low voltage cables together but as you are mounting a large inverter away from the batteries and will need to use heavy cables it will probably be easier to run them separately.

 

[Minxy]

Just an idea but could you instead mount it under the table secured to the wall with a cover/cowl on it - this would be closer to the rest of the gubbings and you could also ensure the 'cowl' has sufficient air flow to keep it cool when it use, it would also mean you could use it for stuff you want to place on the table (eg laptop etc) without running cables across the floor and lastly, you won't lose any storage space!

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[Minxy]

Another thought ... what's under your passenger seat?

 

[Dave K]

Just an idea but could you instead mount it under the table secured to the wall with a cover/cowl on it - this would be closer to the rest of the gubbings and you could also ensure the 'cowl' has sufficient air flow to keep it cool when it use, it would also mean you could use it for stuff you want to place on the table (eg laptop etc) without running cables across the floor and lastly, you won't lose any storage space!

The table we have isn't secured to the wall, it's a centrally floor fixed one, that's why I'm thinking the seat on the side is the best spot

 

[Minxy]

The table we have isn't secured to the wall, it's a centrally floor fixed one, that's why I'm thinking the seat on the side is the best spot

I'm confused now ... my reference to 'under the table' was just to the wall at that side, nothing to actually do with how the table is fixed, I was thinking more down at floor level with a cover over it ...

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[138go]

160 amps so you will need very large cables and BIG terminals or you will have a big voltage drop. Hope it came with a remote switch to turn it on and off. What size leisure batteries do you have and how are they linked together. 160 amps will ruin a 100 amp battery in about 20 minutes.

When calculating cable runs and working out voltage drops you have to remember that the length of the cable is TWICE the distance. One cable to the unit and one going back. So a 2m run of cable becomes 4m and that can make a lot of difference to cable selection.