Rollerteam cab battery issue (1 Viewer)

[GaryF384]

Hi,

I have recently purchased a 2011 Roller Team on a Fiat Ducato chasis and have had some issues with the cab battery, i.e. motorhome not starting. We decided to replace the battery as it is the original battery so ten years old. The motorhome started first time.

However, the control panel has the cab battery at only 6.6v and this has not increased following a drive out. I have noted that since I have had the vehicle it has only ever been 6.6v at it’s highest. I have taken a reading from the cab battery itself using a multimeter which reads at 14.2v.

So, my question is do I have an issue and if so is it with the battery or control panel?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Gary

 

[autorouter]

What make/model is the control panel? As well as the control panel, is there a separate distribution/fusebox for the 12V habitation electrics?

Does your habitation battery get charged from the alternator/starter battery when the engine is running? If the fridge is a 3-way type (gas, mains, 12V) does it work OK on 12V when the engine is running?

These questions are relevant because often the control panel measures the cab battery voltage using either the fridge wiring or the hab battery charging wires. If for example a fuse has blown then that would stop it reading the starter battery voltage.

 

[GaryF384]

Hello autorouter,

Thanks for taking the time to read and respond.

The make of the control panel is a nordelectronica 1350.268.02. I have just recently replaced this panel due to an unrelated issue (both old and new stating similar voltages for cab battery).

Yes, separate fusebox for all hab electrics. All working and in order.

Hab battery is charging as expected from cab battery when engine running.

Yes fridge is 12v three way and appears to be working when engine is running.

Everything appears to be in working order so I am at a bit of a loss and unsure if I have anything to be worried about. A bit of a head scratcher for me.

Any other advice would be more than welcome.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

Gary

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[suavecarve]

Hello autorouter,

Thanks for taking the time to read and respond.

The make of the control panel is a nordelectronica 1350.268.02. I have just recently replaced this panel due to an unrelated issue (both old and new stating similar voltages for cab battery).

Yes, separate fusebox for all hab electrics. All working and in order.

Hab battery is charging as expected from cab battery when engine running.

Yes fridge is 12v three way and appears to be working when engine is running.

Everything appears to be in working order so I am at a bit of a loss and unsure if I have anything to be worried about. A bit of a head scratcher for me.

Any other advice would be more than welcome.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

Gary

might sound fairly obvious, but are the terminals on tight on the new battery ?

 

[autorouter]

If the hab battery is charging whilethe engine is running, and the fridge works on 12V while the engine is running, then there appears to be nothing wrong with the connection from the starter battery to the fusebox.

The make of the control panel is a nordelectronica 1350.268.02. I have just recently replaced this panel due to an unrelated issue (both old and new stating similar voltages for cab battery).

So you've put in a new control panel, and it still reads about 6.6V, the old one did too. So the control panel appears to be OK.

There is presumably a data cable between the fusebox and the control panel. Can you check that all the wires in the data cable are working? Use the resistance range on the multimeter, unplug both ends of the data cable, and measure the resistance of each wire separately. You should get a very low resistance, about 1 ohm or less. They should all be much the same.

If the resistances check out ok, the next check is more tedious. For each of the pins, check that the resistance between that pin and all the other pins is a high value (ideally too high for the meter to measure). This checks that there's no wires touching or squashed insulation etc.

There could be a fault with the data cable connector on the fusebox PCB, but it's a bit difficult to know how to check that, without access to both sides of the PCB. It's he kind of thing that Apuljack Engineering would do, I think. But it's a lot of work to take out the fusebox, and replace it afterwards.

If it's not the data cable, I think I'd just live with it, I don't think it's causing any problems.