RM8501 problems

Joined
Aug 1, 2018
Posts
28
Likes collected
10
Location
Welney, Norfolk
Funster No
55,305
MH
Autocruise Suntor
Exp
2002
Having acouple of start up problems with our fridge.
Working fine on gas and cooling well.
Not working on Mains even though it shows it to be ok, no warnings flashing but not getting cold.
Not working on 12v when engine running and shows an immediate fault with flashing indicator coming on at once.
I'm assuming a possible in line fuse somewhere on the 12v side but I’ve not located one yet but at a loss with the mains problem.
Any help appreciated.
 
I assume you know the 12v side will only work whist engine of van is running?
 
The 240v and 12v heating elements sit side by side in the chimney of the fridge. One failing can kill the other, but at least it's a fairly straight forward job to replace both with fridge pulled forward. Service the burner at the same time
 
The 240v and 12v heating elements sit side by side in the chimney of the fridge. One failing can kill the other, but at least it's a fairly straight forward job to replace both with fridge pulled forward. Service the burner at the same time
Thanks, I’ll have a further look , how can I tell if they have gone? Not my area of expertise I’m afraid.
 
I'm assuming a possible in line fuse somewhere on the 12v side but I’ve not located one yet

We had the starter battery replaced on our x250 Fiat Ducato based Burstner a few years back and afterwards noticed that the 8xxx series Fridge Freezer had stopped working on 12v whilst the engine was running.

It took us a while to figure it out but eventually worked out that the fitter had dislodged the 20amp fuse which is on the + terminal of the starter battery (located under the floor at the passenger seat)

Reseated the fuse and the fridge started working again!

Also worth mentioning that both the Service and Installation manuals for Dometic 8xxx series fridge freezers are in the Resources section....

20221030_194714.jpg

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We had the starter battery replaced on our x250 Fiat Ducato based Burstner a few years back and afterwards noticed that the 8xxx series Fridge Freezer had stopped working on 12v whilst the engine was running.

It took us a while to figure it out but eventually worked out that the fitter had dislodged the 20amp fuse which is on the + terminal of the starter battery (located under the floor at the passenger seat)

Reseated the fuse and the fridge started working again!

Also worth mentioning that both the Service and Installation manuals for Dometic 8xxx series fridge freezers are in the Resources section....

View attachment 683176
Thanks, something else to look Into.
 
Thanks, I’ll have a further look , how can I tell if they have gone? Not my area of expertise I’m afraid.
The best way to check is measure the resistance of each heater element with the power off. This is fairly simple with a multimeter, but if you are not comfortable doing it, we can give guidance. Calling out a mobile caravan service is not cheap and it would make sense to just get them to replace the elements to save 2 visits
 
The best way to check is measure the resistance of each heater element with the power off. This is fairly simple with a multimeter, but if you are not comfortable doing it, we can give guidance. Calling out a mobile caravan service is not cheap and it would make sense to just get them to replace the elements to save 2 visits
guidance would help. As I said not my area off expertise. Thanks
 
First turn off the gas and disconnect the hook up. Inside the fridge, you will find screws on each side securing to the cabinets. Remove these and the external fridge vents. Slide the fridge out a few inches then check the gas pipe. If it is strained at all, disconnect the gas connection at the bottom of the fridge, through the bottom vent. Remove the electrical cover and using a multimeter set to ohms, measure the resistance across the terminals for each heater element. It should read a few ohms. If it has failed, it will read zero or a very high number for closed or open circuit failures.

To replace, unplug the wires to the elements and follow them up to the chimney. The element slides up and out from the metal housing. Sometimes you have to release the clip holding the chimney in a tube to make it easier. Replace the new one as you remove the old one doing one at a time and reconnect the wires.

Whilst it is pulled forward, brush through the chimney and vacuum out the ash and debris round the burner. This can be achieved by removing one screw and unclipping the draft shield from around the burner. Never try and poke anything into the burner jet if it appears blocked. A distorted jet will leave a bad flame pattern. Always renew the jet if it gets blocked
 
First turn off the gas and disconnect the hook up. Inside the fridge, you will find screws on each side securing to the cabinets. Remove these and the external fridge vents. Slide the fridge out a few inches then check the gas pipe. If it is strained at all, disconnect the gas connection at the bottom of the fridge, through the bottom vent. Remove the electrical cover and using a multimeter set to ohms, measure the resistance across the terminals for each heater element. It should read a few ohms. If it has failed, it will read zero or a very high number for closed or open circuit failures.

To replace, unplug the wires to the elements and follow them up to the chimney. The element slides up and out from the metal housing. Sometimes you have to release the clip holding the chimney in a tube to make it easier. Replace the new one as you remove the old one doing one at a time and reconnect the wires.

Whilst it is pulled forward, brush through the chimney and vacuum out the ash and debris round the burner. This can be achieved by removing one screw and unclipping the draft shield from around the burner. Never try and poke anything into the burner jet if it appears blocked. A distorted jet will leave a bad flame pattern. Always renew the jet if it gets blocked
Thanks for that, weather permitting I’ll look at them in the next couple of days. Much appreciated.

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My Dometic fridge stopped working on 240v and I figured out that it was probably the electric element, so I bought another one. It turned out I was wrong and the problem was in the black electronic "brick" at the back of the fridge where the wires to the elements comes from. Non repairable and costs about £180 to buy. Turns out that is the much more likely to fail than the elements.

Anybody want to buy an unused 240v element?
 

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