Replacing a Sureflow pump (1 Viewer)

Nov 25, 2014
279
390
Essex
Funster No
34,348
MH
A class
Exp
Since 2006
CDFCE24E-0295-4155-94CC-500F443DC7FB.jpeg
E0336887-85E1-4029-BC5B-2274E11E4DA5.jpeg
The sureflow pump has recently started to run on after taps are closed and a quick look showed that water was oozing out from the join between the 2 parts of the pump (see 1st photo). I’m assuming this very slight leak is sufficient to keep the pressure low so that the pump doesn’t switch off?
If that’s the case, I need to change the pump (I have a spare) but what I’m not sure about is whether I need to drain the fresh water tank (just filled with 300litres) or can I just keep the pump above the head of the tank by removing the 2 pipe clips under the pump (see photo 2) and swapping the pump over outside of the van as with the clips removed it will pull out of the side locker.
any observations, recommendations or suggestions greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance.
Richard
 

TheBig1

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Nov 27, 2011
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look at the first picture and the diaphragm housing has a crack in it, so needs replacing

If the pump is above the top level of the water tank, no need to drain. Otherwise the tank will drain through the pipe leading to the pump when you undo the connector. Releasing the pipe clips and lifting the pump above the head water level in the tank would work but then you cant let the pipe or pump drop again until the new pump is fitted watertight. I would personally dump the tank water sufficiently to do the replacement or you will need extra hands available to help hold or pass bits
 
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Richard Birkett
Nov 25, 2014
279
390
Essex
Funster No
34,348
MH
A class
Exp
Since 2006
Thanks TheBig1. Is the diaphragm housing the bottom part of the pump, the bit that the hoses are attached to? If so, it’s not cracked but leaking between the 2 parts of the pump. As to keeping the pump above the head of the tank, I think you might be right about not having enough hands.
Richard

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Jan 1, 2019
758
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Hi,
I have just had the same problem.
I striped the pump and resealed flanges with SLX sealant.
The pipe from tank to pump is no problem and there will be minor loss of water.
The pipe from pump to taps, shower etc will leak but a towel under it will suffice.
I did use SLX on most joints. Brilliant stuff
 

TheBig1

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Nov 27, 2011
17,575
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many many years! since I was a kid
Thanks TheBig1. Is the diaphragm housing the bottom part of the pump, the bit that the hoses are attached to? If so, it’s not cracked but leaking between the 2 parts of the pump. As to keeping the pump above the head of the tank, I think you might be right about not having enough hands.
Richard
Hi, yes it is the plastic housing at the bottom. Look again at the first picture and just below the joint, by the water stain is what looks like a crack to me

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Richard Birkett
Nov 25, 2014
279
390
Essex
Funster No
34,348
MH
A class
Exp
Since 2006
Thanks Toady. I can’t find SLX Sealant. Do you mean Fernox LS-X leak sealer?
Richard
 
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Richard Birkett
Nov 25, 2014
279
390
Essex
Funster No
34,348
MH
A class
Exp
Since 2006
Blimey TheBig1!, your eyes are better than mine but I’ve cleaned the area and it’s not a crack but a surface mark.
thanks though.
Richard

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pappajohn

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Aug 26, 2007
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You only need to keep the pump supply pipe above the water level.
Remove from pump and tie/secure at high level while you change the pump.
You may get a little water return from the tap pipes but that's inevitable and if outside the locker then not an issue.
I used blue Hylomar to reseal mine. It is toxic, if you eat the tube, but the amount used is negligible and we are still here
 

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