Replacement grey water tank

TheDeckKing

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Aug 10, 2014
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Talbot Voyager 2 coachbui
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Just got back in from seeing a potential purchase. One problem the grey water tank has a hole in it. The previous owner has just bypassed the tank and uses a portable one like a caravan would. How hard would it be to source and fit a new tank?
 
Feb 24, 2013
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not long enough
having looked at my grey tank quite closely due to an outlet valve problem, I would seriously consider mending not removing

but as Andy says, what are you looking at, some must be easier than mine would have been
 
OP
TheDeckKing

TheDeckKing

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Aug 10, 2014
138
119
Hyde, Cheshire
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Talbot Voyager 2 coachbui
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That depends on what van it is for a start
It's this one LINK
Crawling around underneath it's a metal tank and there a hole in the bottom. All the connections are still there just cut off and diverted to a pipe that sticks out the side to drain to the portable waste thingy
 

Techno

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Jul 28, 2010
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Metal is probably the easiest to repair and as it is the waste not fresh you don't have to worry about contamination
 

Minxy Girl

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Aug 22, 2007
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I'd suggest you get it checked over by a garage before agreeing to buying it as the brake issue could prove to be expensive if the pipes all need replacing and I'm not overly happy at the 'stance' - it seems to be quite high at the front ... look at the gap between the top of the wheel and the wheel arch ... the rear end by comparison looks rather squat ... possible suspension issues too. A garage would also be able to check the engine out etc, and other bits that don't come under a MOT ... it wouldn't cost a lot but could save you some heartbreak/a fortune, or just put your mind at rest. You also need to drive it and check the gear change as some Talbots can be awful.

As for the water tank, I'd just get it repaired as it's only a waste tank, fibreglass or good adhesive and a cover plate of some sort would probably do it too, then just reattach the pipework as necessary, you could, however, also make the bottom hole into another drain point so you can get it completely empty, something which a lot of waste tanks won't do and therefore can cause smells etc.
 
Nov 18, 2011
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It's this one LINK
Crawling around underneath it's a metal tank and there a hole in the bottom. All the connections are still there just cut off and diverted to a pipe that sticks out the side to drain to the portable waste thingy
hollow wall fitting stainless or brass and a big plate washer some caravan mastic tape will do the job $_58[1].jpg
or if it is a big hole fore of these bit of plat steel and lots of caravan mastic tape to seal it
I made a repair on my old van that way still going strong till this day
dip every thing in wax oil to
 
Last edited:
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TheDeckKing

TheDeckKing

Free Member
Aug 10, 2014
138
119
Hyde, Cheshire
Funster No
32,754
MH
Talbot Voyager 2 coachbui
Exp
Newbie
I'd suggest you get it checked over by a garage before agreeing to buying it as the brake issue could prove to be expensive if the pipes all need replacing and I'm not overly happy at the 'stance' - it seems to be quite high at the front ... look at the gap between the top of the wheel and the wheel arch ... the rear end by comparison looks rather squat ... possible suspension issues too. A garage would also be able to check the engine out etc, and other bits that don't come under a MOT ... it wouldn't cost a lot but could save you some heartbreak/a fortune, or just put your mind at rest. You also need to drive it and check the gear change as some Talbots can be awful.

As for the water tank, I'd just get it repaired as it's only a waste tank, fibreglass or good adhesive and a cover plate of some sort would probably do it too, then just reattach the pipework as necessary, you could, however, also make the bottom hole into another drain point so you can get it completely empty, something which a lot of waste tanks won't do and therefore can cause smells etc.
Thanks for the advice. My bro is a mechanic. So a few hundred pounds in parts and free (a few pints) labour and it's fixed.
The stance actually seems normal for the type of van. It did worry me at first but there's lots of bounce left in the suspension it's just that the skin comes down low over the back wheels and hides the arches. I dread to think how hard changing a wheel will be though.
Everything else mechanically is sound. Just the water heater to fix or replace and the waste tank to patch and off we go.
I know for the money I can't buy perfection but I love to tinker and think this has good potential
 

scotjimland

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Jul 25, 2007
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good advice from Minx.. I wouldn't pay a penny until I had a full mechanical report.. could end up an expensive money pit..

also, being petrol.. makes it expensive to run
 

FULL TIMER

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May 31, 2012
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BEEN BUILDING THEM FOR 32 years
In any coach built vehicle of that age or younger the first thing I would be checking for is damp , the tank if metal will be a doddle to fix, the boiler if it's a truma ultrastore bits are easy to get it is quite common for the 240v elements to blow but easy to replace, also know for circuit boards to come loose and there is a fuse on the board that can blow but this only effects the gas operation. If a carver cascade these are no longer made but plenty of secondhand ones about and you can by a new version called a "Henry" which is more or less identical, or if it has the Propex Malaga these are still available new and propex are normally pretty good for spares ,
 

Minxy Girl

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Aug 22, 2007
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good advice from Minx.. I wouldn't pay a penny until I had a full mechanical report.. could end up an expensive money pit..

also, being petrol.. makes it expensive to run
Totally agree about the damp ... make sure you crawl all over the MH, both inside and out, into all the out of the way places that you wouldn't normally look at - a digital camera is useful for places you can't get your head into as you can take a photo and then look at it on the screen to check it out. Also take a pair of step ladders with you so you can get 'up close and personal' to the joints, window seals etc for a good checking over - one place that gets overlooked is the rear corner vertical joints which can start to leak and with the offside one being in the washroom this is often put down to condensation/damp from the shower etc. Why has it got a metal plate on the back under the kitchen window - it's not a normal 'fitment' so has it been damaged at some point or is it simply that the original rear vent for the cooker/oven has been replaced with a smaller one (ie the circular one) ... also regarding the wide blue strips across the back ... why are they there?

As for the stance ... still not convinced that an empty MH should be that low ... once you put your kit in it will be even lower so make sure it is only a 'cosmetic' distortion ... it could partly be caused by having the heavy rear bump bar on the rear or be due to it having towed something heavy which has weakened the back suspension etc. Being a petrol engine it won't be as frugal as a diesel but to be honest at that age there won't be a massive amount of difference and the oomph of a petrol should be better than a diesel. So long as you don't intent to take a long holiday abroad where petrol is a LOT dearer than diesel I wouldn't be too concerned and even then taken into consideration with the total cost it's wouldn't be a massive difference.

Overall though, if it is as good and 'clean' as it appears from the photos and the mechanicals are okay, it should last a long time as they were well built.
 
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