Removal of Severe Paintwork Streaks

[Rammo]

Hi all,

My gold Burstner has some quite severe surface ‘streaks’ where water comes down the van’s side off the wind out awning. It’s affected both the paint and the surface of the large body decal that sits below.

I’ve tried various cleaning fluids including various Fenwick’s materials and polishes - but nothing touches it. I’ve stopped short of T Cut type products but I have read about biofilm removers being potentially effective.

Our van is beautiful apart from that - so I’d be very grateful for any advice that will help sort it.

Cheers,

Ian.

 

[andykim]

If Fenwicks won't remove it it must be ingrained into the paint, try a small ammout of diluted bleach or toothpaste on a tiny area. If you can remove it give the cleaned area a good polish afterwards. Simoniz liquid diamond is great.

 

[TheAleMan]

Hi all,

My gold Burstner has some quite severe surface ‘streaks’ where water comes down the van’s side off the wind out awning. It’s affected both the paint and the surface of the large body decal that sits below.

I’ve tried various cleaning fluids including various Fenwick’s materials and polishes - but nothing touches it. I’ve stopped short of T Cut type products but I have read about biofilm removers being potentially effective.

Our van is beautiful apart from that - so I’d be very grateful for any advice that will help sort it.

Cheers,

Ian.

Doubt you’ll get rid of that, we had that quite bad on our old Burstner and never did overcome it after trying all sorts of stuff to try and remedy the problem. It was worse on the decals and looked really unsightly.

 

[TDub49]

If you haven't already done so, you could try Vistal. I've used it on our moho and it is pretty good on black streaks. The link is to an ad on the Force4 website just for the description of the product - search and buy on eBay or Amazon etc if you want to find it for less than chandlery prices . . . .

Vistal Multi Surface Boat Cleaner 500g | Force 4 Chandlery

Vistal Multi Surface Boat Cleaner Kit - 500g. All natural cleaner. Use all over a boat, on fenders, stanchions & metal, fibreglass, plastic windows & more

www.force4.co.uk

 

[Trevor Wbm]

I've had some successes with Acetone. Unfortunately you need to go to a hairdressers wholesaler to buy it in useful quantities in the UK, but it's available by the litre in many houshold shops in France. (You can of course get it as nail varnish remover in small bottles but be sure it really is Acetone).

Here's what it did to a well established set of marks on the front of my van, on the trim strip - doing the top joint later, currently defrosting my fingers around a cup of tea.

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[Rammo]

That’s good info - thanks to you all.

AleMan’s confirmed my belief that it’s probably not treatable but I’ll try some of the other suggestions.

Cheers,

Ian.

 

[donkey]

Worth trying some traffic film remover. Test on a small patch first.

Geoff

 

[Peter_Cooke]

Is there anybody out there who knows what causes these black streaks? I tried Aldi Black Streak Remover - useless, I next tried Fenwick's Black Streak Remover - only slightly less than useless! My motorhome supplier suggested T-Cut as a possible solution[if you will pardon the pun] but on a new motorhome I was not keen on that. I don't get black streaks on my car so why is the motorhome so inflicted?

 

[Orion]

Dekaclean Ultra might be worth trying. It’s the best solvent type product I’ve come across and is also good for removing mastics and sealants.

 

[dabhand]

this works really well, apply a bit of polish afterwards

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[Don Campbell]

We have rain streaks and have tried all sorts to get rid of them, particularly on the decals. I think the water gets behind the decals and stains them and it would appear to be permanent. The bodywork comes up fine.

 

[Andy1954]

I had success on our Hymer with Silky and plenty of elbow grease

Silky Cream Cleaner and Polish for Caravans, Boats, Motorhomes, PVC 480ml 5030762010011 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Silky Cream Cleaner and Polish for Caravans, Boats, Motorhomes, PVC 480ml at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[MikeMex]

Lots of good solutions provided above. I keep the MH polished and waxed and as a result black streaks sit on the surface of the wax and not the paint. Therefore to clean streaks I use a Autoglym polish and then wax. Try Autoglym AquaWax after every wash, needs a bit of elbow grease as with any polish and wax process.

 

[Ivore]

8 years ago I purchased some drip stop rain deflector which is a soft pliable self adhesive gutter that you can stick along the top of the roof where it joins the side of the van and I also ran it around the contour and down the back. I never had any black streaks after that and it's not showing any signs of detaching yet. You can buy it online any length, it's about £65 for 7mtrs.

 

[TDub49]

Is there anybody out there who knows what causes these black streaks? I tried Aldi Black Streak Remover - useless, I next tried Fenwick's Black Streak Remover - only slightly less than useless! My motorhome supplier suggested T-Cut as a possible solution[if you will pardon the pun] but on a new motorhome I was not keen on that. I don't get black streaks on my car so why is the motorhome so inflicted?

Well, you have a large expanse of roof that you probably can't keep clean as much as you would like because of accessibility and you will get accumulations of cr*p and algae that wash off when it rains and dribble down the sides of your van . . .

There is an answer called Wet'n'Forget which is a spray you can use on a nice clean roof that at least reduces/discourages the stuff that grows and should last the season and a paste called Vistal, which works wonders on the black streaks without being as potentially damaging to the surface as T-Cut and the like.

Oh, and elbow grease an important component . . . .

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[Clive Beeza]

Is there anybody out there who knows what causes these black streaks? I tried Aldi Black Streak Remover - useless, I next tried Fenwick's Black Streak Remover - only slightly less than useless! My motorhome supplier suggested T-Cut as a possible solution[if you will pardon the pun] but on a new motorhome I was not keen on that. I don't get black streaks on my car so why is the motorhome so inflicted?

all M/h's suffer these annoying black stains
I use what the M/h trade use, G101
be aware to wet the area first, spray/brush on to the suggested diluted strength
leave for 1 minute , YES that is one minute
a quick brush over the area, and rinse off with a hose, like magic all black streaks disappear,
Be carefull to only work on a manageable area at a time (one side of the van at a time)
DO NOT let the solurion dry out on the panel, hence the need to wet the panel before you start
from what I see it is what almost every M/h dealers use

 

[TDub49]

all M/h's suffer these annoying black stains
I use what the M/h trade use, G101
be aware to wet the area first, spray/brush on to the suggested diluted strength
leave for 1 minute , YES that is one minute
a quick brush over the area, and rinse off with a hose, like magic all black streaks disappear,
Be carefull to only work on a manageable area at a time (one side of the van at a time)
DO NOT let the solurion dry out on the panel, hence the need to wet the panel before you start
from what I see it is what almost every M/h dealers use

This stuff? Looks interesting and I might invest in some when I run out of the Human Super Clean that I am currently using. I would suggest that anyone interested in the G101 reads the detail bit at the bottom of the add - there are one or two exclusions in there.

Broken Link Removed

 

[TonyEmm]

Is there anybody out there who knows what causes these black streaks? I tried Aldi Black Streak Remover - useless, I next tried Fenwick's Black Streak Remover - only slightly less than useless! My motorhome supplier suggested T-Cut as a possible solution[if you will pardon the pun] but on a new motorhome I was not keen on that. I don't get black streaks on my car so why is the motorhome so inflicted?

It’s a good point that only Motorhomes and Caravans seem to suffer the issue!
I have a white 14 year old Vivaro van and any streaks on that are no great problem, normal washing (which doesn’t happen too often) seems to solve it!

 

[Landy Andy]

I don't get black streaks on my car so why is the motorhome so inflicted?

Because your car is painted, not plastic panels?

 

[Graydo]

all M/h's suffer these annoying black stains
I use what the M/h trade use, G101
be aware to wet the area first, spray/brush on to the suggested diluted strength
leave for 1 minute , YES that is one minute
a quick brush over the area, and rinse off with a hose, like magic all black streaks disappear,
Be carefull to only work on a manageable area at a time (one side of the van at a time)
DO NOT let the solurion dry out on the panel, hence the need to wet the panel before you start
from what I see it is what almost every M/h dealers use

Another vote for G10 compound, removes black stains in seconds.

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[Gazgandalf]

Hi all,

My gold Burstner has some quite severe surface ‘streaks’ where water comes down the van’s side off the wind out awning. It’s affected both the paint and the surface of the large body decal that sits below.

I’ve tried various cleaning fluids including various Fenwick’s materials and polishes - but nothing touches it. I’ve stopped short of T Cut type products but I have read about biofilm removers being potentially effective.

Our van is beautiful apart from that - so I’d be very grateful for any advice that will help sort it.

Cheers,

Ian.

Bilt Hamber Surfex - to clean
Car Pro Perl - to UV protect and reduce ongoing degradation

Hi Rammo, I'm into detailing my cars and M'home so I watch a lot of related Youtube's etc. I have used Bilt Hamber (British Made) degreaser to remove all kinds of grease and worked better on an engine that Auto-Glym engine degreaser. It's not expensive really when you consider the dilution rate - it works out quite cheap. I also use it in the house to degrease cooker hoods etc. Spray, wipe done. It MUST be diluted. I buy a lot of Bilt Hamber products from car wax to under carriage spray - top products.

Then after that, on things like rubber seals (motorhomes, cars and windows) to help stop the streaking I get Car Pro Perl. This stuff dilutes a long way for interiors such as the dash, plastic trims, showers, wiper blades and even on the tyres if you want to treat them after a wash but don't want the wet look. Anything PLASTIC or RUBBER will benefit. I even use it on my sandals and trainers for that bit of water resistance and easy clean next time. It could also be used on the plastic windows. So it's a value-for-money product and highly rated on Amazon and by detailers. And yes, it does treat them rather than just coat them.

When it comes to the rubber window surrounds, I rub a tiny little neat Car Pro Perl after cleaning them (with Bilt Hamber diluted) and removing all the oxidised stuff. Then, being OCD, I add a little more then wipe clean. It leaves anything like that 'treated' and no black run-off later and a deeper black. And it's nothing like that dreadful, greasy, dirt-attracting 'cockpit' shine of years ago.

I like to buy products that have several uses and these two are belting products. Amazon would be a great place to try and compare prices with E-bay incase of offers. Look up the products on their web-page if unsure.

Bilt Hamber are highly rated amongst Car detailers. Smaller quantities can be bought, I always go for the larger one as I use it in some many other ways for that squeaky clean - (greaseless and black mark less) finish and it works out much cheaper.
Bilt Hamber Surfex
Amazon product ASIN B007FR41QA
I've also discovered Viro-sol which is equally good (and perhaps cheaper) and dilutes well just like Bilt Hamber. BTW these two degreasers are so strong I wouldn't use them neat!
Amazon product ASIN B00M0NUG2C
Car Pro Perl
Car Pro Perl also has high UV protection something we all want on our motorhomes:
Amazon product ASIN B004UM9XQG
Hope these suggestion help Rammo. They work for me and no, I'm not paid to go overboard on these two products (I wish) but if something works, it's worth sharing. They're also great value for our money too, something I am all for
Apologies for the length of the response - I struggle to abbreviate.

 

[Allinthestars]

I had same problem a month ago after having my decals replaced. (So many black streaks and glue residue) li tried one think, it was that good I went over all moho. AutoSmart Tar&Glue. Trust me it's fantastic, moho looks like new all over. Removed every mark, water mark, tar, green marks, goid on rubber. Sold on Ebay. Its my new all in one cleaner and polish. Wipe on leave a couple of mins wipe off. Ultra shine lasts ages.

 

[Hymerboy]

I have major problems with black streaks and ground in dirt, neither come off with washing so am currently in the process of T cutting then clay bar then ceramic coating a lot of work but hopefully end of problems if write up is to be believed. To be continued.

 

[TonyEmm]

I have major problems with black streaks and ground in dirt, neither come off with washing so am currently in the process of T cutting then clay bar then ceramic coating a lot of work but hopefully end of problems if write up is to be believed. To be continued.

To my mind, t-cutting caravans & motorhomes is very much a last resort!
1. Unlike Gazgandalf, i’m not into all this detailing stuff, i’d rather pay someone! (Even my yacht’s hulls weren’t treated too often)
2. Caravan paintwork particularly is extremely thin, you can be through it in no time!

 

[Hymerboy]

To my mind, t-cutting caravans & motorhomes is very much a last resort!
1. Unlike Gazgandalf, i’m not into all this detailing stuff, i’d rather pay someone! (Even my yacht’s hulls weren’t treated too often)
2. Caravan paintwork particularly is extremely thin, you can be through it in no time!

Thanks for the heads up i'll be extra carefull.

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[Gazgandalf]

I have major problems with black streaks and ground in dirt, neither come off with washing so am currently in the process of T cutting then clay bar then ceramic coating a lot of work but hopefully end of problems if write up is to be believed. To be continued.

Hi Ducatikid, can I refer you to the post I wrote earlier today as perhaps a little stronger cleaning solution will remove those darker patches. Clay bars are fine with plenty of lubrication but it isn't something to be done regularly as paint layers can be thin, depending on where and the make of M'home or any vehicle. I wouldn't use T-cut at all ... unless I had to use it (no choice) and then I'd only use it on wheel trims. Why? It is pretty severe stuff. Detailers wouldn't recommend it. There are much better and finer Polishes available my friend. T-cut can remove a lot of paint protection too - I just would never use it.

With regard to ceramics, it's an expensive way to protect and can level 'high spots' if not done properly.

I would use a finer polish. Some people mix up 'Polish' and 'Wax.' They say, "I've polished the car" when they mean they have waxed it. A 'Polish' will Polish and a 'Wax' will protect that Polish.
A fine Polish and a loaned buffing machine will allow you to repeat the process but 'cut' less of your vans protection.

Waxes promise 12 months, but really, at best last 4-6 months ... in fine weather.
Turtle Wax do a very good 'Wipe and shine' that's hard to do wrong. It's 'Turtle Wax Sealant' and will give as long a protection as wax (although I am a wax fan because of the warmth of the finish) and it's cheap and very easy leaving a nice shine and great water beading. Two quality micro-fibres + Wipe on and Wipe off. Simple. And there will be plenty left over to repeat the process several times over.

I'm suggesting this to save time and money and protect your vehicle my friend. If you have your heart set on Ceramics, then go for it. It will last 2 or 3 years in all weather. Removing it and going back to Waxes may be a problem as the Ceramics as you will know, bond to the metal. Hope this helps.

 

[Gazgandalf]

To my mind, t-cutting caravans & motorhomes is very much a last resort!
1. Unlike Gazgandalf, i’m not into all this detailing stuff, i’d rather pay someone! (Even my yacht’s hulls weren’t treated too often)
2. Caravan paintwork particularly is extremely thin, you can be through it in no time!

Just noted your comment Tony and agree wholeheartedly. T-Cut was great 30+ years ago when we had few good abrasives and paint was put onto vehicles differently. These days, most vehicles are painted (it looks dull) and then are sprayed with a clear coat. It's similar to varnishing a piece of wood.
Go through that varnish, and the wood will get damaged, unless you can sand down the wood and respray. Once you damage the paint layers however, it's "Big Trouble in little China"
Depending on the vehicle body - is it all metal based or GRP - that would dictate how I would clean, then polish then protect.

I would NEVER use T-cut on a motorhome exterior. The short term gain will leave you with problems later and in the sun, will leave the equivalent of ice-skating swirls on a virgin ice.
I can give advice (only) if anyone needs it.

 

[Hymerboy]

Taking above advice on useing T cut, will only use it if the the clay bar does'nt remove the stains and ground in dirt.

 

[Gazgandalf]

Ducatikid, my friend, please don't even use T-cut if the clay bar doesn't work. It is DREADFUL stuff for the job your doing. I went to Amazon to see which one's I would recommend to you and this one came up on an incredible offer, almost half the price. In fact, it is so good I ordered myself some whilst it's on offer - too good to miss hah! I told you, I'm cheap by name, cheap by nature. AND it's next day delivery. If you are with Prime, it's FREE P&P. 1 litre of Autoglym Super Resin Polish for £14! Unheard of.
Even if it doesn't cut the stain first time, at that price you can use it again. And have a look at the high ratings. But please, don't use T-cut. I'm not a detailer, just a DIY car cleaner (my own) but T-cut is a joke amongst the profession because it's too aggressive - unless you want to remove it all and then repaint it? hah

And remember to spray lots of water/liquid as your clay bar as it picks up 'bits' (a technical detailers term) and can leave loads of scratches behind, which is why I recommend Auto Glym Polish afterwards to remove swirl marks and scratches.

Do you have access to a polishing machine? This would take a lot of the elbow grease out of it. I have a bad back and bought one just to save me a lot of pain (from Argos). It was a cheaper end cleaner that for me (DIY-er) does just as good a job as the £300+ professional ones.

They can be hired too. It will take a hard job and make it a doddle. Just a few drops (imagine dropping it onto 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock) onto the sponge, dab the area to be polished (to stop the excess whizzing off into the air and on you) then on a lowish speed turn the machine on. KEEP it MOVING though or you'll burn through the pain. Don't use the machine where there is no polish it burns through the paint! It's hard to do that - but guess who managed? - so guess who knows what not to do now? hah Then with a Micro, wipe it off.
Aldi sell 4 micro-fibres in their cleaning section for about £2. Not top quality, but not rubbish either for 50p each and they'll do the job in hand.

Don't wipe it on plastic or it's hard to get off. If doing it by hand, take your time, nice and easy - pop on your favourite music and enjoy. Wipe off with a Mirco and it leaves a shine almost as good as a wax.

If you want some advice with waxes, top coats etc let me know.
If you're sticking with ceramics, go for that my friend, just make sure that after polishing you degrease the whole area (you might want to polish and shine the whole van) otherwise the ceramic won't adhere to the paint. It needs to bond with the actual paint which is different to a wax which coats it. Bilt Hamber Surfex is excellent cleaner (diluted) and to be doubly sure, use some isopropyl to spray and wipe with a clean micro. I know it sounds a faff, but ceramic is expensive stuff and will be completely wasted if not prepped properly, which is why I prefer waxes etc because of the time and energy required. If you are loaded, you can get the job done for a few £1,000's.
Whatever you do buddy, try and enjoy the whole thing and it will seem less of a hassle - that's why I suggest music. Hope this helps.

​

 

[TonyEmm]

Just noted your comment Tony and agree wholeheartedly. T-Cut was great 30+ years ago when we had few good abrasives and paint was put onto vehicles differently. These days, most vehicles are painted (it looks dull) and then are sprayed with a clear coat. It's similar to varnishing a piece of wood.
Go through that varnish, and the wood will get damaged, unless you can sand down the wood and respray. Once you damage the paint layers however, it's "Big Trouble in little China"
Depending on the vehicle body - is it all metal based or GRP - that would dictate how I would clean, then polish then protect.

I would NEVER use T-cut on a motorhome exterior. The short term gain will leave you with problems later and in the sun, will leave the equivalent of ice-skating swirls on a virgin ice.
I can give advice (only) if anyone needs it.

As a detailing expert, i’m sure you can help me! My 2009 Rapido had advisories this year (for the first time) on headlamps. They are plainly dull on the top half, feel a bit rough and are a bit greenish looking.

I have plenty of sanding discs, from 40 grit right through to 1800 grit so I’m happy to diy the rubbing down but, having done that, what do you recommend as a final finish?