Rear Heating (1 Viewer)

two

Aug 4, 2011
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The boiler needs to dissipate heat, so it's unkind to block off all the outlets. If it gets too hot, you will get a "fan-rush" in attempt to cool down. I think it's a bit of a non-sense to say don't close off vents because they're unlikely to know how many you have, so I think it's cautionary advice. Also, what is meant by "closing-off"? It may mean shutting completely rather than closing slightly (hope that makes sense). The important thing is to leave enough opportunity for the boiler to shed its heat (and not melt).
 
Sep 24, 2013
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Having looked at our Burstner hot air pipes there are three or four that are permanently open which feed the bed, the frost valve and under both cab seats. So we can't shut all outlets off. What surprises me is that some of the runs are so long that no hot air comes out at all. Mainly the shower. I put in an extra fan in this pipe but I think it would need a jet engine to get any heat through from the boiler!
 
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You want "rear heating"?


Sit on a radiator:xdoh:

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Gorse Hill

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I'm not doubting that you heard what he was saying correctly, but I wonder if it is right as there is nothing in the manual that says this at all and if it was an important issue surely it would be mentioned? We had a 6E in our Autocruise Accent (they fit a 4E now as the 6E is overkill for a campervan!) and it certainly didn't say anything about keeping all the vents open.

Has anyone got this in a manual/instruction book for a Truma 6 (or 6E) at all I wonder?
Agree MG, if it was that important you would have expected it to be in the manual
PS just seen post by blue knight which suggest it is the manual
 
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two

Aug 4, 2011
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Maybe the instruction refers to the installation. There are four outlets from the boiler. The combi4 may have one of those blanked off if only three 'runs' are required, but the combi6 requires all four outlets to be used.
 
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The Flute

The Flute

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Yeah my problem is this the heating to the rear bed is pictured below.
Broken Link Removed

This goes all the way round the bed and there is no way of shutting the air of to it. The end is blocked anyway so Im not to concerned about closing it off sooner All the other vents will be wide open so wont have a problem with it overheating the unit

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Blue Knight

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The actual Truma reference is in the 'FAQs about Truma Combi 6E' section of the Truma website.

Scroll down the 6E section and it's with the rest of the FAQs.

Cheers,

Andrew
 

Happy1

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Close too many vents on 6e ( not necessarily all) and system closes down and posts an error on cp plus screen
 
Aug 19, 2014
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Only looked at this thread cos 'er indoors has a cold bum in bed and I thought someone had found the solution ... oh well ... no spooning for us this winter eh
Can you not suggest she tucks it in.... :xgrin:

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Minxy

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The relevant info as written by Truma:

"To prevent heat accumulation, no warm air outlets or warm air ducts must be closed off on the Combi 6 (E).

With the Combi 4 (E) no more than one warm air outlet or warm air duct may be completely closed off. But it is always better to use all four warm air outlets. Individual outlets in the same pipe may be closed only if T/Y-pieces are used and the heat can be directed to another open warm air outlet".

:xThumb:
Is that in a manual somewhere or just the FAQ on their website?
 

two

Aug 4, 2011
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I think I read it, somewhere, but don't remember where. Pretty sure it was from an official Truma document, probably an installation doc.
 

fairford rambler

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All good food for thought.

Tend to agree with MG here. When I want more heat to the front of my PVC I just turn the rear vent/s butterflies to the closed, or nearly closed position. Also know no reason why closing individual vents is detrimental to the operation of the system. Too close or partially close hot air rear vents makes sense and sends more heat to the front vents and this solves the problem of a cold van front lounge/ bed area, well it does for me at least. I have a Truma Combi Plus Boiler ( latest spec ). If the fan is used correctly it will not allow the build up of excess heat through the system itself. I will agree that there is a lot of surface heat from the Truma boiler, but in cooler conditions this can be good point and I notice that the boilers are fitted with a metal heat shield to protect the bed underneath from boiler heat. Also like the idea of gerry's foil backed mats. In the end I would rather be to hot than to cold, though.

Also wish all funters a Merry Xmas and healthy new year. Hope to see a few of you at the rallies as well.

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two

Aug 4, 2011
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The boiler relies on the vents to shed heat if it gets too hot. This can happen when heating water only, on 'Hot'. Although it tries to judge it correctly, that's what it'll do if the temperature overshoots.
 

Minxy

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... and of course if you have it on heating only you get 'free' hot water as a bonus! :xThumb:
 

two

Aug 4, 2011
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... and of course if you have it on heating only you get 'free' hot water as a bonus! :xThumb:

(only if there's water in the boiler)
I note the apostrophes around 'free'. I'm sure you know that very little in life is actually free.
I don't see the point of not having the water on ('Eco', at least). The water will heat if present but to an indeterminate temperature if 'off'. I'd argue that the water, in that case, was actually 'stealing' heat from the intended destination.

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filopastry

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@jdk62 ... are you bloody kidding ... do you know HOW MUCH of the quilt she owns already??
@GWAYGWAY .. It's a duty .... I have to do it now and then to keep the brownie points rolling in .... sexual harassment it may well be but I'm not brave enough to stand up and challenge her unnatural demands ... are you with you other half ... brave enough I mean??
 

Blue Knight

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Is that in a manual somewhere or just the FAQ on their website?

My apoloies Mel, I've just noted your response.

I'm not entirely sure is my answer but I'll have a dig around the installation manual.

It seems to be quite an importnt statement by Truma so it must be written somewhere else besides the FAQs section.

That said, I can see from the E6 internal diagram that blocking one outlet could create a fair bit of disturbance to the flow patterns of the hot air flow which could cause issues.
 

GWAYGWAY

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@jdk62 ... are you bloody kidding ... do you know HOW MUCH of the quilt she owns already??
@GWAYGWAY .. It's a duty .... I have to do it now and then to keep the brownie points rolling in .... sexual harassment it may well be but I'm not brave enough to stand up and challenge her unnatural demands ... are you with you other half ... brave enough I mean??
With mine I do not have the choice, If I am within touching distance she disappears to the other room, I though they all did that after 6 month of getting married. Says I disturb her sleep by breathing.
In the van SHE get the Rear Beds, I get the dropdown at the front.

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Minxy

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(only if there's water in the boiler)
I note the apostrophes around 'free'. I'm sure you know that very little in life is actually free.
I don't see the point of not having the water on ('Eco', at least). The water will heat if present but to an indeterminate temperature if 'off'. I'd argue that the water, in that case, was actually 'stealing' heat from the intended destination.
As the water heats up as a bi-product of the room heating being on you don't have a choice anyway unless you run it empty which most people are unlikely to do, so as you don't have to add any extra energy to get the hot water it is 'free' IMV.
 

two

Aug 4, 2011
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If you put the water on 'Eco', you know that you'll have water at a set temp (40°C, I think). If water is 'Off' with heating on, you'll get water heated to a temperature anywhere from ambient up to 65° (I think) but usually towards the cool side of hot. I prefer to have the water maintained to a set temperature rather than an uncontrolled one.
If you are on an unmetered EHU, you might regard the heating as 'free' but it will have been paid for indirectly. No matter what method is used to heat the water, the energy consumed in so doing becomes unavailable for space heating, which is why I suggest that 'free heat' is not the best way to describe it.
 

Minxy

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If you put the water on 'Eco', you know that you'll have water at a set temp (40°C, I think). If water is 'Off' with heating on, you'll get water heated to a temperature anywhere from ambient up to 65° (I think) but usually towards the cool side of hot. I prefer to have the water maintained to a set temperature rather than an uncontrolled one.
If you are on an unmetered EHU, you might regard the heating as 'free' but it will have been paid for indirectly. No matter what method is used to heat the water, the energy consumed in so doing becomes unavailable for space heating, which is why I suggest that 'free heat' is not the best way to describe it.
I understand what you are saying but you cannot stop the hot water being heated up when the room heating is on ... ie you get it whether you want it or not ... it may not be 'free' in the sense that it has been heated up using fuel but you haven't actually used ANYMORE fuel to get it ergo IMV that makes it free .... :rolleyes:

Note to self ... I must stop debating about stupid things on the forum! :D2

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The Flute

The Flute

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So controller and motor turned up today so had a play Will mount it properly tomorrow But looks like it will work fine
 

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