Push fit running repairs? (1 Viewer)

[Jane And Rog]

Just looking in the John Guest site. Do they even make inserts for 12mm pipes?

 

[SpeedyDux]

I also have had trouble with leaky 10mm pushfits in my kitchen at home. My plumber managed to sort out the problem. Basically my amateur plumbing skills are inadequate (polite terminology). Anyhow I think compression joints are the way forward for someone like me.

Those inserts are sometimes called stiffeners. I use copper ones.

 

[rog-m740]

I'm not sure why Adria alone have such problems with their Reich FW plumbing. They're by no means the only converter to use Reich Uniquick but they seem to be the only one to routinely suffer from leaks - rarely a week passes on the owners FB group without someone reporting mopping up after leaking connections. The system doesn't use or need pipe inserts and is very reliable in other marques so I'm genuinely at a loss as to what they are doing to get so many failures.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Carpmart]

I'm not sure why Adria alone have such problems with their Reich FW plumbing. They're by no means the only converter to use Reich Uniquick but they seem to be the only one to routinely suffer from leaks - rarely a week passes on the owners FB group without someone reporting mopping up after leaking connections. The system doesn't use or need pipe inserts and is very reliable in other marques so I'm genuinely at a loss as to what they are doing to get so many failures.

They obviously have a cack handed fitter who does this part of their builds.

 

[HugoBNB]

To be fair, I’ve not heard tales of woe from any other Adria owners - might be worth asking?

Plenty of us with Adria speedfit joints failing. Adria don't seen interested as I got our dealer to put the failures we had back to them and they weren'tinterested. There is another thread running on here about a leak from a shower on an Adria MH.
I have just ordered more fittings from John Guess to keep spares for when the inevitable happens.
I did solve one leak that sounds very similar to yours by removing the pipe from the fitting, cutting off the section that was inside the joint, then reconnecting.
Good luck and keep the Moroccan posts coming please.

 

[HugoBNB]

Just looking in the John Guest site. Do they even make inserts for 12mm pipes?

Yes. Just ordered some on ebay

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[HugoBNB]

Here.

 

[Basildog]

12 mm pipe inserts are available but typical of the Leisure industry for some unknown reason they don’t use them as standard.
Our Swift dumped its 100 litres of water all over the floor several times years ago .
Luckily being a Swift it leaked straight out again at the floor / wall joint
I eventually realised that the pipes were cut too short so along with no inserts they were designed to fail
Best toolbox product I keep at work / home and the van is Fernox LSX

Fernox LS-X Leak Sealer 50ml - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Silicone paste used as an external leak sealer and jointing compound. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

 

[Jane And Rog]

Thanks BnBJwf
Basildog Do you just put the LS-X around the neck of the leaking push fit connector?
I do have silicon grease in the van, I wonder if that might help a push fit.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[eurajohn]

I'm not wishing to insult your intelligence but just in case you are unsure how push fit connectors work, the actual fluid seal is made via an o ring situated towards the bottom of the fitting and the tube is retained in place via a collet which has a tapered shank.
So if the o ring is damaged in any way it is likely to leak, if the tube is not pushed completely through and out the other side of the o ring it will leak, if the collet does not grip the tube properly it will allow the tube to be pushed out of the seal of the o ring and it will leak.
Have you been able to identify which of the likely causes is your problem?

 

[Jane And Rog]

I know roughly how push fit works but I don’t have a massive amount of experience diagnosing faults. I have not taken this fitting to bits since I don’t have spares to replace anything I damage, the fitting is really tight and nothing is actually loose.

 

[Two on Tour]

I'm not wishing to insult your intelligence but just in case you are unsure how push fit connectors work, the actual fluid seal is made via an o ring situated towards the bottom of the fitting and the tube is retained in place via a collet which has a tapered shank.
So if the o ring is damaged in any way it is likely to leak, if the tube is not pushed completely through and out the other side of the o ring it will leak, if the collet does not grip the tube properly it will allow the tube to be pushed out of the seal of the o ring and it will leak.
Have you been able to identify which of the likely causes is your problem?

I have had to replace a length of pipework a couple of times as the stainless steel teeth that grip the pipe tend to score the pipe as it is withdrawn from the fitting and this scoring then forms a poor seal allowing water leakage. This scoring is even worse if the pipe comes away from the fitting without being release by pushing in the collet.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Jane And Rog]

I don’t think this fitting has ever been removed - not unless they did it when replacing one of the elbows at the last Jan service.
I think it’s just under too much tension which I guess is causing the o-ring not to seal.

 

[HugoBNB]

I don’t think this fitting has ever been removed - not unless they did it when replacing one of the elbows at the last Jan service.
I think it’s just under too much tension which I guess is causing the o-ring not to seal.

With one of our failures near the boiler, it was a combination of a score mark down the section of the pipe that was inside the fitting combined with a cut on the end of the pipe that was not square. I managed to generate about 20mm of extra length by moving the pipe about, removed the damage and cut it square, reinserted it and it has been okay since.
Good luck.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Im happy nursing this along now. It’s been stable for about three days which is t that onerous to keep doing. I did find a photo though in case anyone is interested.

There are two systems of push fit connected together. Top is hot - and you can see a couple of replacements there. Bottom is cold and where the current leak is. The tension is between the two lower pipes on the left of this photo they’re pulling the joints apart.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Basildog]

Exactly what was happening in the new Swift we had in 2011 .
Either cut that pipe and extend it with a straight coupling and a section of new pipe or replace the whole section of pipe if it’s accessible.
As it is now it’s almost certainly going to fail again at some point

 

[Miggs]

It may stem from how the pipes were cut in the first place. If they had a ragged edge and damaged the o ring then it might cause a perpetual leak?

 

[125BEER]

Hi,don't want to confuse the issue but have the pipes been cut with a push fit cutter..pipe apparently marked "v" for cutting. ?

Cheers

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Jane And Rog]

This is all Adria’s work. Even the replacements were done by Adria UK (ie Geoff Cox)

 

[HugoBNB]

Same as ours. I am going to redo the lot at the boiler and secure them onto a block that will stop the pipe and joints from moving.
Poor workmanship and design IMHO

 

[IRHP]

I'm not sure why Adria alone have such problems with their Reich FW plumbing. They're by no means the only converter to use Reich Uniquick but they seem to be the only one to routinely suffer from leaks - rarely a week passes on the owners FB group without someone reporting mopping up after leaking connections. The system doesn't use or need pipe inserts and is very reliable in other marques so I'm genuinely at a loss as to what they are doing to get so many failures.

Not sure what the problem is but I know in my case it's always the hot pipes that have leaked and when the hot water has been on and used. Maybe no inserts is the problem. The pipes definitely get softer when hot. Whatever it is, replacing with JG and inserts fixes the problem. The Reich fittings on models after 2021 have changed slightly and my dealer says they have no problems with vans after that time.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Jane And Rog]

We spoke to an Adria dealer in Spain yesterday and he said it’s a problem common to all Adrias (didn’t mention newer models) he cited two reasons: the complex manifolds they build combined with not putting pipe clips near those manifolds. They act as a sprung mass making any van vibrations worse and stressing the push fit.

Sounds like he knows his stuff and we’re booked into his workshop tomorrow

 

[HugoBNB]

We spoke to an Adria dealer in Spain yesterday and he said it’s a problem common to all Adrias (didn’t mention newer models) he cited two reasons: the complex manifolds they build combined with not putting pipe clips near those manifolds. They act as a sprung mass making any van vibrations worse and stressing the push fit.

Sounds like he knows his stuff and we’re booked into his workshop tomorrow

I was up at our MH a few hours ago to check a few things over. I decided to take the cover off our Truma to refresh my mind on how bad the plumbing is. It is b****y shocking! Just a mass of joints cobbled up onto a manifold of sorts, nothing secured, and the whole assembly is able to bounce about at will.
I am going to design something better using JG fittings and secure the pipe runs where I can. The Adria Coral is a great motorhome, it is just a shame that little, relatively easy, fixes/improvements seem to be overlooked by manufacturers for some reason best known to themselves.
I didn't have my phone with me, but I will take pictures of my solution when I do it in the spring.
Safe and happy travels.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Now fully replaced with John Guest.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[glrcoach]

I have a 2019 Adria twin pvc. I’ve never been 100% happy with the plumbing and now have a leak under the sink.
It seems like when the pump is in the push fit connector to the cold tap flexes a bit when the pump is on and that causes a leak.
We’re at the start of a two week holiday so I’d like to make some running repairs. It’s also really tight so I’m not confident replacing the connector. Is there anything quick and easy I can do to make the connection better?

I have a leak in the bathroom/toilet area. Any idea how to access the plumbing?

 

[Jane And Rog]

I have a leak in the bathroom/toilet area. Any idea how to access the plumbing?

Have you located the leak? Afaik the only connectors are under the sink and it’s fairly easy to remove the faceplate and get at them. forgive me if you know this but it’ll only leak when the pump is on. We had leaking connectors on the tap and found them by me lying down with my head in the shower and Jane turning the kitchen tap on.

So, I would guess the leak is from the tap. You can see the pipe work for that under the sink and access it by removing the faceplate (two screws). There’s a locking pin to remove then the hot and cold pipes just pull off.

Ours needed a bit of silicon grease and reseating. There are some push fit connectors under there but (fingers crossed) ours have been ok. They’re not under tension/mental like the manifold under the travel seat.