Project Hymer Table Reduction (1 Viewer)

[Steve and Denise]

well after looking for the most elusive 360 degree 80cm table I found one for a mere £1500+vat
So I got to thinking I could cut my own down from110cm to 80cm so removed it today ready to cut .
So fingers crossed what is the worst that can happen

 

[champers]

View attachment 183979 View attachment 183980 View attachment 183981 well after looking for the most elusive 360 degree 80cm table I found one for a mere £1500+vat

So I got to thinking I could cut my own down from110cm to 80cm so removed it today ready to cut .
So fingers crossed what is the worst that can happen

Hope all goes well..ours is the same as yours as you know Steve, they make them far too big these days ..

Kath

 

[Steve and Denise]

Well if this works it will be 800mm square and extend to 1100mm max

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[tonyidle]

I cut down then hinged the table in my B584. I'd challenge anyone to spot that it isn't OEM. My experience: cut the section off as neatly as possible; clean out the filling for a depth that's appropriate for the infill wood; ensure that the infill wood is exactly the size needed to fill the gap between the top & bottom coverings and glue in place. I find NoNails or equivalent best for this type of job. Leave the infill just proud of the table edge; clamp and leave glue to set; plane infill and edge to a good finish testing it for truth against the other half of the table; sand the face & edges to remove sharpness; rub the finished edge with a polyurethane varnish-soaked cloth. Enjoy .

 

[Steve and Denise]

This table seems to be solid midfield in the middle edged with around 20mm of oak at the join then veneered on the curved ends I will know soon

 

[Figaro]

Measure twice, cut once, carefully

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[icantremember]

well after looking for the most elusive 360 degree 80cm table I found one for a mere £1500+vat

As a matter of interest Steve , could you please let me know where you found this one.

Good luck with the modification ... you're a braver man than me!

 

[Steve and Denise]

That was Premier in Kent @icantremember

 

[phil1946]

I found one for a mere £1500+vat
So I got to thinking I could cut my own down from110cm to 80cm so removed it today ready to cut .
So fingers crossed what is the worst that can happen

I suppose the worst is £1500+vat but am sure that, as you are brave enough to try, you will save money. I just hope the final result is large enough for one dinner plate!! (My dad tried to salvage a wardrobe mirror broken when they were bombed in the Blitz - my mum always smiled when she took the result out of her handbag to check her make-up).

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[Silver-Fox]

@SteveandDenise can I ask what might seem a daft question.

Is the middle piece a loose in fill and are you cutting 300mm from the centre of the two ends so 150mm off each piece?

Also if its the above you may find it easier using a router and a guide used for worktops.

Just being nosey

 

[Steve and Denise]

@SteveandDenise can I ask what might seem a daft question.

Is the middle piece a loose in fill and are you cutting 300mm from the centre of the two ends so 150mm off each piece?

Also if its the above you may find it easier using a router and a guide used for worktops.

Just being nosey

Yes 150mm off each side so I can keep the 300mm centre which stays underneath and use if needed I will have to cut the under side edge to allow the room for the centre leaf to stay.

As for the router a local firm has a nice band saw and we are going to give that a try I will do a test cut first if that fails then it will be finish the edge with a router and refit the locating dowels.

 

[Steve and Denise]

In the photo it looks almost square but it is 800mm X 1100mm

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[BusyBuilder]

I fit kitchens and I would certainly NOT use a bandsaw for this. The table may have a chipboard or MDF infill, but aside from that the finished edge will be poor.
Try to hire a rail saw (Amazon product ASIN )
and cut upside down, ie from the underside.
If the blade is sharp the finish may well be okay to stick a veneer onto directly, or if not then a router with 12mm router cutter will be needed.
Veneers are available in various woods, or try you local timber merchant and but a piece of solid wood say 5 or 10mm thick and attach using a very good quality glue and some clamps.. Alternatively B & Q will have kitchen worktop edging strips you can stick on using contact adhesive (Bostick).
If you are unsure about all this find a local joiners/carpenters workshop and get them to do it for you, £100 ? should do it.
If as you say these tables cost £1500 I wouldn't want to muck it up.

 

[BusyBuilder]

that Amazon link should be

 

[Gellyneck]

Why don't you just make a new table top and either keep the original to put back in or flog it on?

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[BusyBuilder]

Could use a kitchen worktop or two pieces of 18mm ply glued/screwed together with veneer on top, or use 18mm Birch ply the sand down lightly and apply finish/varnish or say Osmo finish

 

[Silver-Fox]

@SteveandDenise have to agree with the other poster about not using a band saw.
Not really the tool for the job.

If you use a worktop jig you can do all the work from above working left to right but they should know that.
You can also plunge cut the end of the cut first as that will prevent split out.

Good luck with it and would like to see the finished article

 

[Larrynwin]

To safely cut the laminate without breakout on the surface I would always use a router. Only problem is the width of router cutter will reduce the size marginally.
Using any kind of saw will risk breakout on the laminate surface.

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[mitzimad]

i would experiment with various cuts you have the 150mm to play with on each piece most motorhome tables are hollow or honeycombed card board or plastic personally i think a previous post was the best suggestion leave that one as it is and make a new top

 

[BusyBuilder]

Could find a kitchen fitter to do it for you, but my method is the way I've been cutting laminate and solid wood worktops for 15 years.

 

[tonyidle]

Saw type is irrelevant if it's planed to finish. I found it is best to finish to size once the wooden filler is in and the glue is hardened off. Finished size isn't critical to with in a mm or so on this kind of work. I cut mine with a jigsaw & fine blade then finish planed it. The edge is perfect.

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[Stretto Boy]

I admire your bravery. If it was me, I would just buy a new table top to fit to the existing base. You can buy off the shelf sizes or bespoke ones for a reasonable price.

There are several companies who can supply these. This is just one of them:

http://www.rainbow-conversions.co.uk/table-tops-camper-motorhome-caravan.html

 

[Hils and Glenns]

I would just buy a new table top to fit to the existing base.

We replaced our table top with a smaller one from O'Leary's in Beverley. We have kept the original one and will reinstate it if we sell

 

[Wissel]

I fit kitchens and I would certainly NOT use a bandsaw for this. The table may have a chipboard or MDF infill, but aside from that the finished edge will be poor.
Try to hire a rail saw (Amazon product ASIN )
and cut upside down, ie from the underside.
If the blade is sharp the finish may well be okay to stick a veneer onto directly, or if not then a router with 12mm router cutter will be needed.
Veneers are available in various woods, or try you local timber merchant and but a piece of solid wood say 5 or 10mm thick and attach using a very good quality glue and some clamps.. Alternatively B & Q will have kitchen worktop edging strips you can stick on using contact adhesive (Bostick).
If you are unsure about all this find a local joiners/carpenters workshop and get them to do it for you, £100 ? should do it.
If as you say these tables cost £1500 I wouldn't want to muck it up.

This is the way I'd do it as well (ex kitchen fitter and own a kitchen company).

I'd add a good masking tape all around the cut (cut from underneath properly the top should be perfect but the underside could chip a little. Surprising how much masking tape can stop this).

Another good tip is clamp a level to the table to use as a guide against the saws edge.

You can always take another mm off with a router afterwards for if needed.

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[tonyidle]

This is mine taken as I'm using this tablet. It is hinged on the underside along the cut line. The black thing crossing it is the charger connection for the tablet.

 

[Steve and Denise]

Having taken all this good advice on board from people who have lots of expireance I will be Abel to report back tomorrow hopefully once done thanks for all the advice.

 

[Steve and Denise]

Ok update waiting to go and use the firms saw when my pal says oh I cut them in my lunch break used a panel saw with a moving table cuts from above so after a test cut no breakout apart from underside even then minimal all I need to do now is drill for the dowels and a bit of varnish

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[Steve and Denise]

Right all done ready to go back in tomorrow

 

[Steve and Denise]

Looks big without it

 

[Theonlysue]

You're a brave brave man. Well done!

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