Problems with Hymer water system (1 Viewer)

OP
peterc10
Jul 5, 2013
10,485
11,505
Tunbridge Wells
Funster No
26,797
MH
A class
Exp
Since 2013
I miss read it.
I clicked on specification it said no specification for this product a good website not.

Does say fits their own 12mm Quick Connect & ½" flexible so it looks like a short length of ½" pipe & adaptor.
Also says 10mm flexible. Is 1/2" flexible the same as 10mm flexible? One measuring OD and the other ID?

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Jun 23, 2017
195
160
Shipley, West Yorkshire
Funster No
49,142
MH
Hymer Exsis T - 588
Exp
Since 2004
On our latest outing the microswitch on my Hymer basin tap failed for the second time and a few days later so did the one on the kitchen tap. I am getting fed up with this especially as they are very awkward to fix. At the moment I have rigged a simple on off switch using the basin's wiring. So I just switch it on and the pump starts to run and then just open the tap you want to use. The problem is that if you forget to switch it off the pump will probably burn out, so this can only be a temporary fix.

It seems to me that I have three options.

Option 1. Just keep replacing them each time they break. The problem with that is that it will be time consuming for me to do or expensive to employ somebody to do it for me.

Option 2. Do what Lenny HB did and replace the Hymer's submersible pump with with a pressure switched Sureflow pump I have discussed this with him, but my problem is that the noise of that pump running to flush the toilet in the middle of the night would wake up y wife. And also my double floor is only 125mm or so high so it would be very difficult to fit anywhere convenient.

Option 3. Replace the micro switched method of turning on and off the pump with a pressure switch system. This would have the advantage of keeping the quiet submersible pump and also would seem to me to be simpler to do, so . Has anybody done this on a Hymer and if so how did they make it work please. I am not sure how I could make this work with the toilet and also what I do with the existing microswitch wiring. The internal and external shower still work on the microswitch so should I disconnect them too?

Has anybody successfully carried out Option 3, and if so can they explain how please?

Many thanks for any help you can give
I have done this - not by removing the microswitch but adding a Whale pressure switch into the system, along with a Whale accumulator. Reason for doing it was not a microswitch issue (although that was in the back of my mind), more to smooth the flow to the shower head which I fitted with a restrictor valve.

I did try to find out whether fitting microswitches and a pressure switched system together would cause issues but never found an answer. So just did it and four years on have had no problems.

I was a bit concerned initially that the Whale voltage adjustment might cause problems when on and off grid with voltage variations but in practice, once its set up it hasn't needed to be changed.

It so long ago I can't recall the wiring approach but I assume the Reich submersible is now activated by the pressure switch as well as (or instead of?) the microswitches.

Still keep a spare Reich pump though!
 
Jun 23, 2017
195
160
Shipley, West Yorkshire
Funster No
49,142
MH
Hymer Exsis T - 588
Exp
Since 2004
Finally, do you know if there are better alternatives to the Whale unit? I understand that they are fiddly to set up because they are sensitive to different voltages on the system when charging. Seems to be strange that they do not fit a voltage stabiliser.
I think my Whale accumulator is probably doing the job of voltage stabilisation. Fitted on this and a previous van and has worked well on both. No clicking, just on/off but hearing not as good as it used to be!
 

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