Possible fuse issues? (1 Viewer)

[Sooz52]

Hi. Can someone help point me in the direction of a possible issue, I’m hoping just a fuse.... Hymer B514.

I’ve been having so many problems with solar and batteries since I bought my Hymer in Feb, however, having added panels and battery then having gone through a traumatic journey learning stuff and pulling things apart, it turns out that the charger that came with my LiFepo4 was faulty. I was really hoping getting a replacement would solve my issues, but in checking the leisure battery status after an overnight charge, I unhooked all the connections - and there‘s now a more central problem as the steps don’t work and the panel comes on for a second, then an odd noise comes from the Hymer built in controller, and the panel switches off. When I unhooked the leisure battery the water ran out of the boiler - I wasn’t expecting that as it normally only drains if I knock the battery switch in the built in controller, or unhook the car battery (I’ve got a dead switch fitted). It sounds like a blown fuse but who knows.

I’ve checked all fuses in the built in controller (the solar one was dead, I replaced it), knocked the battery on/off switch just in case, reconnected the leisure battery (knowing that shouldn’t make a difference) and checked the 2 fuses near the Leisure battery. Next job is to go round check all fuses in the vehicle; but I’d really welcome pointers.

 

[SandraL]

A bit more info may help.
What model controller and display panel do you have, eg schaudt ebl99, dt 201 display?
Do you have a hand held voltmeter?

If nothing else your post will be back at the top!

 

[Sooz52]

Hi, I have a multimeter, and I’ve found 3 fuse panels; I suspect I need a fuse extractor as my fingers hurt removing a couple, and there are loads to check. The controller is Elektroblock EBL 100. The panel is DT201 (Pictured when it was working). I’ve checked all fuses in the controller.

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[SandraL]

Ok, first thing, can you operate the battery on off switch on the ebl a few times, ending with on position. Just in case contacts are a bit dirty.

Second
Use multimeter and check voltage across the leisure
battery terminals. What is it?

Third, next to leisure battery there will be 2 fuses, large and small. Using voltmeter are both ends of the fuses reading same voltage as leisure battery?

Fourth
If over 12v insecond test, Turn dt panel on and on electroblock check with voltmeter both ends of all the fuses and let us know results,. Eg no 12v, one end only on fuse etc

Do you have mains supply on?
What does solar charger lights indicate?

Hope that makes sense.

 

[SandraL]

Instruction manual. Electrobloc EBL PDF Free Download

Instruction manual 0 Manual Electrobloc EBL Electrobloc EBL Type no Table of contents 1 Introduction Safety information

docplayer.net

Might be helpful? Also available from schaudt website in germany.

 

[Sooz52]

Ok, first thing,

wow thanks!! Onto it when I can!

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[Sooz52]

Instruction manual. Electrobloc EBL PDF Free Download

Instruction manual 0 Manual Electrobloc EBL Electrobloc EBL Type no Table of contents 1 Introduction Safety information

docplayer.net

Might be helpful? Also available from schaudt website in germany.

Again thanks so much, will download and peruse

 

[Abgs]

I had problems with mine electrics the other week turned out the wire leading from the leisure battery 50Amp fuse to the EBL was loose at the rear of the fuse holder..... plugged in back in and it all started working again. It wasn't obvious until I'd removed the fuse holder so I could see the back clearly.

 

[Sooz52]

I had problems with mine electrics the other week turned out the wire leading from the leisure battery 50Amp fuse to the EBL was loose at the rear of the fuse holder..... plugged in back in and it all started working again. It wasn't obvious until I'd removed the fuse holder so I could see the back clearly.

Thanks meatball

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[pappajohn]

I need a fuse extractor as my fingers hurt removing a couple, and there are loads to check.

As a double edge solution buy a pair of point nose pliers. The other edge is you then have a pair of point nose pliers for other jobs.

 

[Sooz52]

As a double edge solution buy a pair of point nose pliers. The other edge is you then have a pair of point nose pliers for other jobs.

Thanks, I’m obviously not thinking clearly, I’ve got a couple in the tool box

 

[Sooz52]

Can you operate the battery on off switch on the ebl a few times, ending with on position. Just in case contacts are a bit dirty.
- Did this, no difference. I hadn’t turned this switch off when charging or disconnecting the leisure battery, hoping it’s not fried something.

Second
Use multimeter and check voltage across the leisure
battery terminals. What is it?
- 14.34v (it’s a lifepo4)

Third, next to leisure battery there will be 2 fuses, large and small. Using voltmeter are both ends of the fuses reading same voltage as leisure battery?
- this is by removing the fuses and shoving the meter needles in each “foot” where the fuse was?
- 50a fuse = 15.05v
- 2a fuse = 0.62v - possible problem???
- I’ve checked cabling behind fuses, seems ok

Fourth
If over 12v insecond test, Turn dt panel on and on electroblock check with voltmeter both ends of all the fuses and let us know results,. Eg no 12v, one end only on fuse etc
- I’m not too sure what I’m doing tbh - tried removing one fuse and measured where it was, got 1v

Do you have mains supply on?
- no

What does solar charger lights indicate?
- the original panels and controller are wired into the electroblock, the lights on the contoller are not lighting. possible problem???
- The new panels into the new controller go directly into the battery - this lights up as normal.

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[Sooz52]

Thanks, I’m obviously not thinking clearly, I’ve got a couple in the tool box

They aren’t strong enough, however a visual check may be enough, seem ok. Now I’m thinking I’m not sure if the fuse box in the drivers area or the one under the bonnet would have anything related to the leisure system...

 

[Sooz52]

I’ve downloaded the manual for the panel but that gives no clue.
Local electrician not interested in looking as he doesn’t know caravans - he’s directed me to Alicante (4 hours away, and currently can’t get
there due to lock down).
In the meantime I’m stuck - it’s my full time home. Luckily have backup digs and place to work, but not great

So please keep any suggestions coming. I’ve got a day off and all tools out!!

 

[kevenh]

<snip>
Third, next to leisure battery there will be 2 fuses, large and small. Using voltmeter are both ends of the fuses reading same voltage as leisure battery?
- this is by removing the fuses and shoving the meter needles in each “foot” where the fuse was?
- 50a fuse = 15.05v
- 2a fuse = 0.62v - possible problem???
- I’ve checked cabling behind fuses, seems ok
<snip>

Was the reading .62v on BOTH ends?
SandraL has you looking for volts and that is a comparison check on either side of the fuse with the red meter cable used; with the black meter cable on the same ground/0v position for both readings of the fuse terminals.

If the 2A fuse is 0,62v at both ends then that past of circuit isn't live/in use.
If one end is that low & the other is >12v then the fuse is blown.

The meter check I would use for fuses is ohms/resistance, with the red meter cable on one fuse end & the black cable on the other, UL/Open circuit indicates the fuse is blown.

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[SandraL]

On 3rd test. I should have been clearer.
I meant to test with fuse in, one leg of voltmeter to ground, other leg onto fuse.
Would expect same voltage as the battery.

Same on testing ebl fuses, one leg voltmeter to fuse, other leg to ground. Assuming you have the type of fuse that is not fully encapsulated so you can get tip of voltmeter probe onto the fuse.

 

[Sooz52]

Oh... I’ll see if I can dig the reader needle in, it seems pretty tight. No clue but learning every day!

 

[Sooz52]

So, I put the red needle of the Multimeter into one side then the other of the 50a fuse. The black needle goes into the leisure battery negative (I guess this works as earth, if not, where should I touch it?) Same voltage as battery.
But on the 2a fuse I get virtually nothing; the fuse extracted passes a continuity test.
This must be the root of the problem, but what next?

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[SandraL]

The 2amp fuse, I am expecting one side of it to be connected to the battery, the other side goes into the ebl so the ebl can measure voltage.
Can you trace the wire from ebl to the battery? Perhaps with 2amp fuse out put probe into fuseholder ,other probe to earth, and check for battery voltage on the side wired to the battery.
If no voltage need to trace the wire back to battery.


Edit, meant to say can you trace wire from 2amp fuse to battery! Not ebl to battery....

 

[Sooz52]

Ok will dig in further - yes one end goes to batter and other to ebl- no idea how to tell which cable it is in the ebl but I’ll look

 

[SandraL]

See my edit, if no voltage at the 2amp fuseholder then need to trace wire to battery from fuse holder.

Apologies for sending you off in wrong direction

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[Sooz52]

Wire is direct fuse holder to battery. I’ll take the terminals off again and pull everything apart looking for bad connections

 

[Sooz52]

See my edit, if no voltage at the 2amp fuseholder then need to trace wire to battery from fuse holder.

Apologies for sending you off in wrong direction

No problems, I don’t think you did! I’m looking everywhere

 

[autorouter]

I unhooked all the connections - and there‘s now a more central problem as the steps don’t work and the panel comes on for a second, then an odd noise comes from the Hymer built in controller, and the panel switches off. When I unhooked the leisure battery the water ran out of the boiler - I wasn’t expecting that as it normally only drains if I knock the battery switch in the built in controller, or unhook the car battery (I’ve got a dead switch fitted)

The 12V supply is in two sections. The permanently on bits, and the bits that switch off via the DT201 panel switch. The permanently on bits are the step, fridge control board and the frost protection valve for the water heater. The FPV needs 12V power to keep it closed. If it loses power, it springs open and dumps the water in the water heater.

The battery switch in the EBL is notoriously unreliable, and sometimes needs to be operated several times to get it to work. Once it's working, best not to touch it. You can check if it's on by seeing if the step works.

That wire with the 2A fuse in it is crucial, because it's the method the EBL/DT201 uses to measure the leisure battery voltage accurately. If it's bad, you get all the problems you are describing.

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[Sooz52]

OH MY GOD!!!! SORTED!!!!!
Thank you so much forum folks, and especially SandraL, you are fabulous.
It was a bloody loose cable, one of about 5 going into the negative battery terminal, hidden under some tape. I’ll get the solder out and fix it properly, but suffice to say, loosely attached, the EBL and panel fire up so I believe I have my house back.
I’m now typing in between running around excitedly and scaring my dog
I feel a few celebratory wines coming up, it is a day off after all...

 

[kevenh]

Brill team effort.
Thanks for updating us on the resolution