Possible Adria electrical problem (1 Viewer)

[peterc10]

I have had a 2008 Adria Coral 660 for a few months now and it seems to me that there is a problem with the wiring, but the dealer I bought it from says not.

When I am driving I switch the fridge onto 12v and it works, as normal, through the relay. When I switch off the engine it stops working via the relay but appears to continue to work off the habitation battery. The result is that if I stop for a break or for the night and forget to change it to gas the habitation battery very quickly discharges.

Since this is my first motorhome I do not know if this is normal. Many years ago when I had a caravan it worked differently in that when I switched off the engine the fridge switched off and did not use the leisure battery at all. I would rather have a warm fridge than a dead battery.

The dealer tells me that this behaviour is normal for a continental motorhome. Can anybody tell me if that is that correct please??

 

[jonandshell]

No, it is not normal, your dealer is a numpty!

There should not be a supply to the 12 volt fridge element with the engine stopped!
It might be that the distribution board has been configured for an automatic energy selection fridge. This will mean a constant 12 volt supply is present.oh:

Sorting it out might mean removal of a link on the main distribution board or similar. Do you know the make of the electrical system?

 

[peterc10]

No, it is not normal, your dealer is a numpty!

There should not be a supply to the 12 volt fridge element with the engine stopped!
?

Thanks for the quick reply.

They say it still needs a 12v supply even when the engine has stopped in order to work the control selection panel and the gas ignition otherwise you would not be able to change it to gas once the engine is stopped. That makes sense to me. But they also say that that supply does not actually work the fridge. But when it is in 12v mode the battery looses 50% of its charge in 2 hours, which suggests that is not the case.

It has a Schaudt EBL 226 distribution board and Schaudt LT 500 control and switch panel. I have the instructions and wiring diagrams for both.

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[pappajohn]

it does need a constant 12v supply.....for the control panel only, not the heating element.

something has been wired incorrectly....and i doubt it was the converters.

EDIT....

just re-read your last post and if the battery is losing 50% in just two hours you have a knackered battery.

fridge current is around 10 amps max so a good 80amp battery would last at least 4 hours.

turn off the fridge then see what time you get before it gets to 50%.

i suspect the fridge is working as it should but the battery is beyond dead and needs replacing.

it may be taking a charge when driving or on hookup but cant hold the charge once charging power is removed.

 

[peterc10]

OK, I think I may have solved this with the help of johnandshell.

I checked the wiring diagram of the distribution block and saw that there are two connections to the fridge. One has a 15A fuse with a big note saying that this is only for AES fridges. Well I assume that means an automatic switching fridge, which mine isn't. So I go out and look at the fuses on the unit and sure enough there is one fuse holder with a fuse in it and a big note printed on the board saying exactly the same. Took the fuse out and now the lights on the fridge works but now when it is on 12v they flash with a red warning light - which I take to mean that there is no 12v supply for working the fridge. Anyway I am just seeing now if the battery is still loosing charge quickly.

What annoys me is that the dealer did not spot this when he first looked at it. He actually said to me it has been wired up for an auto fridge but does not have one! Why did he not spot how easy it was to correct it?

 

[peterc10]

it does need a constant 12v supply.....for the control panel only, not the heating element.

something has been wired incorrectly....and i doubt it was the converters.

EDIT....

just re-read your last post and if the battery is losing 50% in just two hours you have a knackered battery.

fridge current is around 10 amps max so a good 80amp battery would last at least 4 hours.

turn off the fridge then see what time you get before it gets to 50%.

i suspect the fridge is working as it should but the battery is beyond dead and needs replacing.

it may be taking a charge when driving or on hookup but cant hold the charge once charging power is removed.

Pappajohn. Thanks for this, but as you can see from my new post which crossed with yours, I think the fridge was working on battery. And 50% loss in 2hrs is about 100% in 4hrs I suspect, although it is not that simple I know.

Anyway I will also check the battery life without the fridge on to see if it is holding a charge.

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[hilldweller]

What annoys me is that the dealer did not spot this when he first looked at it.

SNAFU

You'll have to look it up.

Well done you and John.

 

[lorger]

Glad you sorted it, I have the Adria matrix and our fridge will beep if on the wrong supply, if we unplug mains and fridge is set to mains it has a red light and makes a small bleep. If we stop after driving and leave it on 12v it does the same.

 

[peterc10]

Glad you sorted it, I have the Adria matrix and our fridge will beep if on the wrong supply, if we unplug mains and fridge is set to mains it has a red light and makes a small bleep. If we stop after driving and leave it on 12v it does the same.

My one is an RM8501 and is silent - all that happens is I get two flashing lights. According to the instructions only the AES model (automatic energy selection) models make a noise. Maybe you have a later model than mine (2008).

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