Petrol / LPG VS Diesel (1 Viewer)

snooky

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I'm looking at buying a 7mtr long C class motorhome for towing my drag car. Am I better off buying 6.8 V10 petrol and putting LPG on it or getting 6.5 diesel ?
I will be doing around 400 mile round trip to the race tracks up and down the A1 and M1 but just wondered what people's thoughts are and proper mpg figures at what speed are you getting.
Also if it doesn't have an onboard generator, is it a big job to fit one so it powers the motorhome electric if we arnt hooked up ?
Thanks
 
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pappajohn

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6.5ltr oil burner may return 14mpg.
6.8ltr petrol may return 10mpg
6.8 on LPG may return 8mpg.(+ petrol for starting and warm-up)

Diesel £1:16
Petrol £1:14
LPG £0:55
(Local prices)

Diesel is diesel, no alternative fuel option.
Petrol could be converted to LPG at massive cost.
Already converted to LPG could save around £2500 on conversion cost.
I know which I would (did) have.....LPG.
 

pappajohn

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Forgot to add....most of my mileage was major A roads and motorway.
Average speed around 50mph....Even on motorways.
Floor it and see 3/4 or less of those figures

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Allan & Loren

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Our RV was converted to LPG before we bought it but believe the cost is around £2500. We have an 8.1 Chevy engine and get around 10 mpg. Our local LPG supplier is currently 41.9p per litre and we use the LPG app to find the most competitive costs when travelling. Found it as low as 30p per litre in Belgium .... Happy days! And as @pappajohn says we have a built in genny like all the RVs we've come across. It's only 8m long too and we're selling it as ready to downsize.
 
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snooky

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Thanks for the reply Pappa J. I've read that the V10 petrol revs high on hills when towing from dropping down gears but the diesel just pulls due to its torque but I'll only be pulling around 2.5 tons.
The RV I've seen hasn't got a onboard generator according to the owner.
I just need to sell my motorhome before I can commit to getting one.

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snooky

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Our RV was converted to LPG before we bought it but believe the cost is around £2500. We have an 8.1 Chevy engine and get around 10 mpg. Our local LPG supplier is currently 41.9p per litre and we use the LPG app to find the most competitive costs when travelling. Found it as low as 30p per litre in Belgium .... Happy days! And as @pappajohn says we have a built in genny like all the RVs we've come across. It's only 8m long too and we're selling it as ready to downsize.

I wonder if the one I'm looking at has got an on board generator but the guy doesn't know about it. He doesn't even know the engine size of it and I've found it out by putting the reg number to vosa car tax site. We can only get away with 7.2 Mtrs on our drive so I'm limited or I'd go for 8mtrs.
 

pappajohn

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Thanks for the reply Pappa J. I've read that the V10 petrol revs high on hills when towing from dropping down gears but the diesel just pulls due to its torque but I'll only be pulling around 2.5 tons.
The RV I've seen hasn't got a onboard generator according to the owner.
I just need to sell my motorhome before I can commit to getting one.
Yes, they do tend to drop a gear rather early and the revs shoot up.
If in overdrive on the flat its often better to disengage O/D before the hill and let it rev a bit higher to start with.
It sounds like the Onan or Generac genny has been removed.
Understandable as they are severely thirsty being so big (my 5.5kva Genarac was a 480cc V twin Briggs & Stratton engine) and run at full speed (around 3600rpm) regardless of electrical load.
Expect around 3/4 gallon per hour.
Much more economical to buy a 3kva 'silent' inverter generator such as a Hyundai etc and plug into your regular hookup socket but you wont be able to use any aircon unit, they need too much power.
It could be fixed in the original generator locker which is usually an open frame locker with only a door.
An American genny is 120v so would need a transformer to convert to 230v for your 230v appliances.
Anything inbuilt, fridge, microwave etc will be 120v but it should already have a 230v to 120v converter built in.
Only difference, apart from voltage, is the frequency...American = 60hz...UK = 50hz but most things will run ok.
 
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Allan & Loren

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I wonder if the one I'm looking at has got an on board generator but the guy doesn't know about it. He doesn't even know the engine size of it and I've found it out by putting the reg number to vosa car tax site. We can only get away with 7.2 Mtrs on our drive so I'm limited or I'd go for 8mtrs.
It's really unusual to not know the size of the engine! If you know what make and model it is you could google the spec. Maybe it's been removed as damaged/faulty/etc. The genies are usually in a dedicated locker and Ours has a switch on the dashboard as well as being able to control it on the genie itself. I'd ask him how long he's owned it as he may just be a dealer. I looked at a motorhome earlier this week and the guy pretended he'd owned it but it was clear I knew more about 'his' motorhome than he did, so I walked away as I don't do dodgy dealers haha

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pappajohn

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Another point to lo9k out for......
Check the VIN or makers ID plate for a the combined gross vehicle weight....CGVW or CGWR
Some RVs dont have a CGVW or CGWR on the plate even though many are capable is towing 5 tons or more.
The yanks have a different way of working out the weight without needing the data plate weight.
Thats the combined max RV and trailer weight
Under UK law no plated weight = no towing anything.
 
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snooky

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Yes, they do tend to drop a gear rather early and the revs shoot up.
If in overdrive on the flat its often better to disengage O/D before the hill and let it rev a bit higher to start with.
It sounds like the Onan or Generac genny has been removed.
Understandable as they are severely thirsty being so big (my 5.5kva Genarac was a 480cc V twin Briggs & Stratton engine) and run at full speed (around 3600rpm) regardless of electrical load.
Expect around 3/4 gallon per hour.
Much more economical to buy a 3kva 'silent' inverter generator such as a Hyundai etc and plug into your regular hookup socket but you wont be able to use any aircon unit, they need too much power.
It could be fixed in the original generator locker which is usually an open frame locker with only a door.
An American genny is 120v so would need a transformer to convert to 230v for your 230v appliances.
Anything inbuilt, fridge, microwave etc will be 120v but it should already have a 230v to 120v converter built in.
Only difference, apart from voltage, is the frequency...American = 60hz...UK = 50hz but most things will run ok.
Thanks for the lots of knowledge, that's a good help. I have got a Honda gx160 that I might be able to use when we're at race events as there is plenty of people using them so should be ok but I've heard people saying something about if they don't run at a constant power suply they can brake your motorhome and that you need one that has a constant power supply
 
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snooky

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It's really unusual to not know the size of the engine! If you know what make and model it is you could google the spec. Maybe it's been removed as damaged/faulty/etc. The genies are usually in a dedicated locker and Ours has a switch on the dashboard as well as being able to control it on the genie itself. I'd ask him how long he's owned it as he may just be a dealer. I looked at a motorhome earlier this week and the guy pretended he'd owned it but it was clear I knew more about 'his' motorhome than he did, so I walked away as I don't do dodgy dealers haha
He has owned it with his brother in law for a couple of years. He seems genuine somehow but I suppose you can't tell really.

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snooky

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Another point to lo9k out for......
Check the VIN or makers ID plate for a the combined gross vehicle weight....CGVW or CGWR
Some RVs dont have a CGVW or CGWR on the plate even though many are capable is towing 5 tons or more.
The yanks have a different way of working out the weight without needing the data plate weight.
Thats the combined max RV and trailer weight
Under UK law no plated weight = no towing anything.
A very well pointed out bit of info. There would be no point in me getting it if no plate. Can you not get a plate made for the RV and done correctly or is it a case of it comes with one or never gets one if not fitted ?
 
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I found the Chevy 6.5l turbo diesel in my Allegro a bit gutless but had two RVs both with Ford Triton V10 on lpg which were both very good.
 
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I found the Chevy 6.5l turbo diesel in my Allegro a bit gutless but had two RVs both with Ford Triton V10 on lpg which were both very good.


That's some motor in an Allegro, could the square steering wheel and hydrolastic suspension cope with the power?.

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pappajohn

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Fitted at chassis factory, in this case it will be Ford.
The UK body converter can alter it, only downwards, in this country for UK conversions but unless the body is built here its whatever Mr Ford stuck on it in America, if anything, stands.

The yanks work out the max trailer weight by juggling the RV weight, axle final ratio plus the engine size and horsepower and also calculate a maximum frontal area of any trailer being towed to arrive at a max trailer weight.
The same plate law applies to cars, some simply arent deemed safe to tow a trailer by the manufacturer so no weight is included on the plate and nobody makes towbars for that model.
 
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snooky

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I found the Chevy 6.5l turbo diesel in my Allegro a bit gutless but had two RVs both with Ford Triton V10 on lpg which were both very good.
Was the Allegro a lot bigger or were they similar in size ? Just wondering if the engines were pulling similar weights ?
 
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snooky

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Fitted at chassis factory, in this case it will be Ford.
The UK body converter can alter it, only downwards, in this country for UK conversions but unless the body is built here its whatever Mr Ford stuck on it in America, if anything, stands.

The yanks work out the max trailer weight by juggling the RV weight, axle final ratio plus the engine size and horsepower and also calculate a maximum frontal area of any trailer being towed to arrive at a max trailer weight.
The same plate law applies to cars, some simply arent deemed safe to tow a trailer by the manufacturer so no weight is included on the plate and nobody makes towbars for that model.

I never knew about that and thanks for sharing as it could of been a costly mistake. I'll look for a plate that's adequate for me needs now

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pappajohn

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The way i understand it in America anything can tow anything using the above calculations so why bother working it out and putting it on a plate.

If you dont understand the VIN plate the top number maked GVW or MAM is the vehicles maximum weight
Axle 1 is the maximum front axle weight
Axle 2 is the maximum rear qxle weight
GCVW is the maximum vehicle plus loaded trailer weight (the loaded weight applies regardless of whether trailer is loaded or not)
 
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snooky

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Yeah it's just us that it would affect if it never had a plate on.
 
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Was the Allegro a lot bigger or were they similar in size ? Just wondering if the engines were pulling similar weights ?

The Allegro was an A Class 28ft and was approx. same weight as the other two.
The better diesel options on RVs are pushers but are normally in excess of 7500 kgs

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snooky

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The way i understand it in America anything can tow anything using the above calculations so why bother working it out and putting it on a plate.

If you dont understand the VIN plate the top number maked GVW or MAM is the vehicles maximum weight
Axle 1 is the maximum front axle weight
Axle 2 is the maximum rear qxle weight
GCVW is the maximum vehicle plus loaded trailer weight (the loaded weight applies regardless of whether trailer is loaded or not)

I'll check the plate on the RV before I buy and see what it says and make sure it's enough for what I need
 
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snooky

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The Allegro was an A Class 28ft and was approx. same weight as the other two.
The better diesel options on RVs are pushers but are normally in excess of 7500 kgs
Ah ok, seems lpg is the better option then.
Can anyone recommend a good trustworthy place that won't charge the earth around North Yorkshire/ Cleveland area to fit lpg ?
 

Allan & Loren

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Auto gas at Thirsk fitted our system with 2 100 litre tanks we get around 330 miles.

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Feb 22, 2008
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Ah ok, seems lpg is the better option then.
Can anyone recommend a good trustworthy place that won't charge the earth around North Yorkshire/ Cleveland area to fit lpg ?

I would advise buying RV already converted. A new conversion would cost around £3500 so recovery of cost especially short term is unlikely.
If buying ready converted ask for installers certificate as a poor installation will be more trouble than it's worth.

If not already suggested would be worth logging on to sister site www.rvoc.co.uk whose members are specific to American RVs so loads of info available.
 
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Ditto what Larry said re 6.5, it's an 'economy' engine so not particularly powerful. Most smaller RVs are fitted with a 5000lb reciever hitch, about 2.2ton so irrespective of tow rating this may limit you to.
 

joka250

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A very well pointed out bit of info. There would be no point in me getting it if no plate. Can you not get a plate made for the RV and done correctly or is it a case of it comes with one or never gets one if not fitted ?
I believe it is not possible to change, if no towing weight on plate that's it.

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snooky

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Ah ok, seems lpg is the better option then.
Can anyone recommend a good trustworthy place that won't charge the earth around North Yorkshire/ Cleveland area to fit lpg ?
Thanks for that ! They are fairly local to me. Ive got my eye on a few different motorhomes. A couple of A class and a couple of C class. Is there any plus or minus for either ones ?
 
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snooky

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I'll have a look on that site mate thanks. The A class is a 6.5. It looks like it has a strip /clip over the rear and over the front ! I've I read that if they have them they have had work done to the body i.e. From damp or damage etc or is that not the case. I'm new to these so still as green as grass.
Thanks all for the replys
 
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I believe it is not possible to change, if no towing weight on plate that's it.

I believe on mine the towing weight is blank, so I could just stamp it myself with what's on the brochure, 26000lbs GCWR, and I am good to go. :)

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