Pet foods do they need to cost ££££££ (1 Viewer)

[Road Runner]

Now dads gone into a care home my finances have drastically changed for the worse.

Now I have always bought Bruno the best complete food on the shelf i.e. £30 plus a bag.

Recently I have bought the £12 a bag food and wonder if £££ really are better?

Bare in mind Bruno is old now and all I have.

Am I being stupid buying him cheaper food.

He is on constant medication from the vet paid for arthritis via insurance company, so glad I have always insured him for life now.

 

[chrisgreen]

when looking at dry dogfood,Always look at the protein content, 27% is about right as the rest is just fillers.Cheaper dry food normaly has about 19-23% protein so the rest you will be putting in a poo bag when out walking.

 

[atakd]

As impoverished students we fed our dog on £10/ 15kg Superdog and he seemed to keep reasonable condition managing 10 mile yomps age 10.
We now buy Burns at 3+ times the cost, though for a different dog. The main difference I notice (sensitive types stop reading at this point) is that his stools are much firmer. In terms of coat, eyes, friskyness etc. there seems to be little difference.
I certainly wouldn't feel that you are neglecting a dog by using cheaper food - a well loved dog on a economical diet is far better off than a neglected dog eating steak.
Andy

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[DESCO]

As impoverished students we fed our dog on £10/ 15kg Superdog and he seemed to keep reasonable condition managing 10 mile yomps age 10.
We now buy Burns at 3+ times the cost, though for a different dog. The main difference I notice (sensitive types stop reading at this point) is that his stools are much firmer. In terms of coat, eyes, friskyness etc. there seems to be little difference.
I certainly wouldn't feel that you are neglecting a dog by using cheaper food - a well loved dog on a economical diet is far better off than a neglected dog eating steak.
Andy

Must say totally agree with above post. We to use Burns for 2 Poodles for the reasons stated but then they don't eat as much as Bruno, so not so expensive.


Dave :thumb::thumb:

 

[mark e]

Tried doing what you are trying to do John oh:

It dont work going cheap, the dog will poo more often and you'll be throwing you're money away !

By buying him the dearer stuff, he will get more norishment from the food, this will stay in him longer and not end up on the lawn and Bruno will thank you for it :thumb:

Give this guy a ring, he owns 2 pet shops near me and he is only 1 of 4 in Wales who is a qualified pet nutritionist. Look up Talbot pets, in Talbot green Llantrisant. He will give you all the time you need and answer all you're questions. He's brill :thumb:

 

[pappajohn]

never had a problem with our four dogs.....

not fussy and eat anything given to them.

at the moment they are on Wagg complete worker @ £15 for two 17kg sacks (23% protein)

they also get any left over meat and veg from our meals, and the stuff we dont know about.....whatever they catch, rabbit, pigeon, pheasant, rat etc.

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[N Luyetund]

Don't knw which brand you're using John but my 13 year old lab is still on Chudleigh's Original ... can't be r said to go out and check the protein level

The vet said she should be on 'senior' dog food, apparently it's lower in protein but.... will cost at least 17.5% more 'cos of Vat!!!! (it was damn near double the price!)

Luv the 'extra poo = wasting money theory' ...is it really just crap?

Thanks for the 'heads up' on Wagg foods papajohn:thumb:

 

[chatter]

my dog is on wagg as well, she is an ex-racer (greyhound) she is doing fine on it, had her a few years now since she finished racing due to injury her vet is pleased and he would be the first to say if what we gave her was no good as he is the vet for the local racing greyhounds. She is still greyhound shape and not obese (which some foods can make dogs) and like most retired greyhounds prefers to sleep/relax somewhere comfy most of the day, she doesnt like long walks but does occasionally if she gets excited likes playing racetrack around the garden

 

[pappajohn]

Thanks for the 'heads up' on Wagg foods papajohn:thumb:

we get ours at our local 'Pets at Home' store.

theres usually a promo for it instore.

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[atakd]

Just re-read my post and I think it sounds a bit patronising so, fistly, sorry for any offence caused. The point I was trying to make is that, IMHO, more expensive dried food has some advantages but doesn't necessarily represent value for money. It is heavily marketed to play on the conciences of people who want what's best for their dog.

 

[geoff587]

Feed both my dogs a lab and a Lurcher (greyhound/saluki ) on 23% complete dog food at £10 for 15 kg. One dog is 10 and the lurcher 5. As stated in an earlier post its the protein content that you need to look at, an older dog does not need the same protein intake as a working dog. It passes straight through it.
Don,t pay for the companies expensive advertising .

P.S. There aren,t many dogs /rabbits/hares out run my lurcher

 

[Wildman]

when looking at dry dogfood,Always look at the protein content, 27% is about right as the rest is just fillers.Cheaper dry food normaly has about 19-23% protein so the rest you will be putting in a poo bag when out walking.

We use a very cheap, WORKER Complete dog food @ £6.99 per 15 kilo bag, 23% protein. The two dogs are healthy full of beans and walk miles every day their coats shine and eyes are bright. The body does not just use protein, other minerals and trace elements are used as well. All dogs produce large amounts of poo if they are fed enough. Bruno as an elderly dog will have a lower exercise regime and require a lower protein level to match. We as human beings tend to spoil animals and trick ourselves into paying more than we need to. No shame in economising as long as the dog remains happy and fit. Our dogs always win prizes for condition when shown so not just our opinion

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[gozomike]

Hi

Spotted this a couple of days ago in the local paper, it may be of interest.

http://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20100406/world-news/junk-food-killing-pet-cats-and-dogs

Mike

 

[rav4girly]

We have a 13 year old English Bull Terrier X and a one year old Jackapoo. I used to get senior food and puppy food but they ate each others. Now they have whichever complete dry food which is on offer when I come to buy it and they both seem fine.

 

[Terry]

Hi firstly let me say that 27 % protein is too high for normal dogs but good for working / running dogs :thumb: Too high ends up giving them dandruff 23 % ish is fine for most dogs :thumb: It has to be 20 % to be classed as complete food.I have always fed ours on Omega rings ( £15 ) only because you do not add water and it can stay down all day with the dog eating what / when it wants, (and yes I know you should feed them once / twice a day and remove any they have not eaten )
In the next few weeks I will be changing this to some stuff at £8 a bag off a mate :thumb: again it will be dry and down all day or even next day until he eats it like the Omega Yes the dog will have the sh--s for a few days until he gets used to it. All dogs get the sh--s when you change there food, be it for a day or forever -- try it
terry

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[Wildman]

to prevent the dogs stomach getting upset mix the new food with the old and gradually over a few days increase the percentage of new food to 100%

 

[laneside]

laneside

Hi

just got to add my two pennyworth to this, we ran a feed store for a number of years before retiring selling a vast aray of dog foods.

My advice for what it is worth is ignore the protein label on the bag, there is protein in my leather boots but it of little feed value to nearly any animal.

Avoid the cheaper foods with flakes etc. in as these do lead to extra poos, but any of the kibbled foods fed dry are much of a muchness, the differing prices are mainly a marketing gimmick.

Whenever you change a dogs diet do it over a period of two or three days to permit a smooth change over.

The other thing to watch for is the fact that many dogs especially wire coated ones can have an intollerance to gluten. if this is the case look for a cheap kibble that is labeled, lamb and rice or chicken and rice.

From our experience there are many less popular kibbles on the market for around £14.00 per 15/17Kg that are every bit as good as one you mat pay £40.00 plus for,and I am led to believe some of the cheaper ones are made on the exact same machine that some of the expensive ones are made on.

The gradation of views will become apparent as some dogs can eat anything at all whereas some are super sensitive.

Cheers Alan

 

[Terry]

to prevent the dogs stomach getting upset mix the new food with the old and gradually over a few days increase the percentage of new food to 100%

:thumb:
terry

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[John H]

My lurcher is a rescue dog, she and her two brothers were dumped at five weeks old with parvo, the RSPCA in colwyn bay did a sterling job and saved all three of them. when we got her she was on a special diet of a very high protien food, the RSPCA asked us to keep her on this food for six months and then change it to a working dog food. the food we first had her on was Omega, we then took her into our local pet supermarket and while we were there she found a hole in a bag of cheap dry dog food and managed to get a couple of bits before I noticed, this food is only £6.99 for a 15 kilo sack and had 21% protein. the food is called Dr Greens and she's been on it ever since.:thumb:

 

[laneside]

laneside

Sorry might add if you can find a supply of kibble labeled as working dog it will be cheaper as it is free of VAT just a loophole that manufacturers slip through with virtually the same product just a little extra chicken fat added in most cases.

alan

 

[Compass57]

May I say I find all the above fascinating and very helpful because I have only just found this section of the forum and what a fountain of knowledge you all are.
I have a six year old boxer who when we first had him was eating dog tripe and what a stink that made, he is on dry food now and guess what, it’s the brand which has been talked about here ‘Wagg.
My son put me unto it; he too has a boxer, he’s older and less active than mine.
I bought a bag the other week from Tesco’s forget now how much it cost me but it wasn’t expensive.
I’ve used the expensive dry foods and he’s ate them without any problems, but as mentioned earlier I had noticed dandruff on the lower part of his back [tail end] and if one ran ones hands along his back towards his hind quarters ones fingers would be coated in a grey whitish waxy substance, I put that down to him having naturally oily skin, but I do know now its because of the high protein level in the food I was buying him.
Its to early to tell at the moment but if what is being said is true then the dandruff and oily skin should go away, thanks once again and I hope I will be a regular contributor here.

Bip.:thumb:

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[bluelass]

I have two rescue dogs, three until March when Sasha left for Rainbow Valley...

Gemma is collie x german shepherd, 15 and has lived on the diet below.

They have dry food but at least 4 times a week they have a tin of sardines in tomato sauce between them, mushed up with the dry food.
Great for their coats and their joints. The tins are 35p from Tesco own brand. I also use water that I've boiled the veg (for the chickens) in their food as well as a bit of actual veg now and again. They both have a carrot each for breakfast and a small carrot before bed. One of them will eat practically any fruit or veg - except the ones that are bad for them like grapes etc. I grow a lot of my own veg so it's relatively cheap.

Sometimes it's the extras that can make the difference.

 

[greygit]

For a nation of "dog lovers" we don't get a lot of information on dog foods do we?
We had another rescued dog last year and he needed to put on weight so I did a little research on the dried foods available, it was quite a shock. The protein claims for most of these foods mean very little as if they include feathers claws hooves etc, this boosts the protein level but are of no use to the dog and are passed on through.
We find we spend less time shovelling dog doodah off the lawn with the dearer foods than the cheep ones.
[FONT=&quot]Greygit[/FONT]

 

[Compass57]

That’s something I have never notice with my boxer, how many craps he produces in a 24-hour period but I reckon it could be a valuable guide to the quality of the food one is giving him, who knows?
Regarding grapes being not good for dogs, again I didn’t know that, is that true?
My boxer will eat them and chew the stalks too.
He will also eat segments of Orange, Banana but not Apple or Pineapple.
He likes the core of a pear, and will eat most vegetables including Brussel sprouts but like us humans, one has to expect the worst afterwards.
I to will, when I think of it and when I have a tin in give him Sardines in tomato sauce, I buy mine from Asda though, I think they are cheaper from Asda at 22 pence a tin.….

Has anyone noticed this, I have a large garden so my boxer doesn’t get taken for a run as often as if he was living in a house with a small or non existent garden, when I do take him for a run his first duty is to have a crap, then another two minutes later, then another five minutes later, the timings aren’t exact but you get my drift don’t you?
Buy the time he’s emptied himself his motions are the consistency of Masala sauce, is this constant passing of waste product whenever I take him for a run a common trait in boxers?

Bip.:thumb:

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[Compass57]

Just been informed by my partner who has just arrived back from the gym this morning that Asda has Wagg on special offer at £7 for 15kg bag.

Bip.:thumb:

 

[takeaflight]

I picked up 6 tins of cat food by mistake same size as the dog food cans, but halve the price !

Charlie the greyhound didn't object, but there again he likes cats :Blush:

I was brought up with dogs and can never remember them going to the vets only when it was sadly inevitable, so I do wonder if some of us do worry to much.

Charlie is the only one with health insurance

 

[haganap]

we feed Tara all sorts. But mainly we use Working dog foods like wag, omega tasty , beta purina and then mix it with butchers tins. Also we get pet mince from our local butchers 50p a bag and its real meat. Tara loves it, she has a good coat and seems quite fit and poos once a day.

A friend at work inssits on buying his boxer iams or something, at about £50 for a 15kg bag, sorry, i cant afford that, but tara does not mind.
Regarding protein, my understanding is that its only important in young growing dogs (high content) if you look at puppy food, or young dog food, you can see they are higher in protein for this reason.

Also a dog, should be able to tollerate any food. Its a dog, its life is on the street living off scraps that it would find.

I just give our dog extra love and affection to make up for the food we can't afford.:thumb:

oh one other thing, we were told to stay away from foods that contain colours, makes a dog hyper apparantly?

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