Ok So This Dpf Filter........ (1 Viewer)

Munchie

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I am being told to keep it clear to run the engine at 2500/3500 revs to get the temp up and re gen it properly!
So, the DPF filter re gens when the ECU tells it to?
So how do you know when it is re genning to get the revs up to assit it???

Confused of Parc Verger!
 

Ivory55

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All these modern motors that do lots of miles to the gallon have to be regularly thrashed to clear them out, and burn up all the fuel you have just saved. Simples
 

tonka

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DONT MENTION THE DPF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:(:(

Still dont know where I stand with mine and due to go to Spain shortly.
Van did a lot of miles in first 2 years and clocked up almost 20,000.. Not so much in past year.
So it's been worked quiet well, I think anyway.

Check engine light came on as we started up after Stratford.
Van run fine all the way home with light on.
Plugged in a fault reader and gave me "P2454 dpf sensor A "
Did a lot of reading and decided to try some "Diesel magic" had another run to a rally, van run ok.
Cleared fault with software on ipad.. But light returned after a few start ups.
Located Sensor on van, Read up some more inc info on a newer updated sensor. ordered sensor from Poland (Cheaper).
Came to fit and darn 3 pin plug is just "slightly" different :(
Plugged electrical connector back in on old sensor, cleared the code and tried starting a few times.. All seemed ok ?? (n) No fault.
Took for a run with plenty of good high rev's. Seem's to be running better now and no fault..

Have to try on a long run at weekend.. Fingers crossed....

PS.. I kept the wrong sensor which fits later 2012 and onwards models so if anyone gets stuck and needs one, Only want to recover my cost...

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pappajohn

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the DPF filter re gens when the ECU tells it to?
The ecu senses a pressure differential between the inlet and outlet of the dpf....all via the sensors....and if the differential is outside preset parameters (partial blockage) it alters the fuel to make the exhaust run much hotter, around 800°c i believe, and burns off the soot particles.
to manually begin regen you need to drive at higher revs....speed has nothing to do with it....to increase the exhaust temperature to do the same thing as the ecu.
 

mjltigger

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Sounds to me like the fault was due to poor or no reading from the sensor and that has cleared by reseating the connection.. Good luck

Neither of our Ford's have given us any grief with dpf.. one is 2009 2.0 that gets run up and down the motorway at 70ish on a regular basis so wouldn't expect an issue. The other does 20 miles a week if it's lucky all short journeys around town

I think the initial issues with dpf were pretty much ironed out by most mfr s last decade..
 
OP
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Munchie

Munchie

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Ahh so running at sat 3500 revs thereby increasing the temp should initiate a regen?

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tonka

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So i will just maintain my speed but in 4th instead of 6th!

Thats what I have just done.. Left in a lower gear and run up the motorway at high revs.
Had a similar problem with a Vauxhall Zafira, my garage man put some "stuff" in the diesel and told me to run it high revs,, Cured that for a while...

Sounds to me like the fault was due to poor or no reading from the sensor and that has cleared by reseating the connection.. Good luck

Really hope so,.. In any case I know a bit more about DPF, Sensors etc..
 

tonka

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@Munchie Just found this off another thread... Interesting to read..
From the AA website:
The particulate filter is made from a honeycomb ceramic monolith, like a catalytic converter, of silicon carbide. The monolith is contained in a metal casing and consists of many tiny channels which run parallel to each other and are interconnected.
The particulate traps catch bits of soot – until they are full – and then they can’t trap any more. At this point the DPF needs to go through the ‘Regeneration Process’. During regeneration the soot is converted to a very small volume of ash which remains in the filter.
There are two types of regeneration – passive and active. Passive regeneration takes place, automatically, on motorway-type runs in which the exhaust temperature is high (somewhere between 350ºC and 500ºC). As the exhaust is so hot (hot enough to ignite the soot particles) the regeneration process can carry on continuously and steadily across the platinum coated catalytic converter.
A surprisingly large number of people don’t take their cars anywhere near a motorway so passive regeneration is only going to be possible once in a blue moon. Soot builds up in the DPF and intervention from the ECU is needed to shift it. In the case of a filter without additive when the soot loading reaches about 45 per cent the ECU switches off the EGR and increases the fuel injection period so there is a small injection after the main injection. These measures help to raise the engine exhaust temperature to over 600ºC which is high enough to burn off the soot particles.
This isn’t a very straight forward process if the journey is a bit stop/start. If the driver suddenly has to stop or slow down, the ECU can’t complete the regeneration and it has to temporarily abort the operation. When the vehicle’s speed reaches a neck-snapping 38mph, the ECU can have another go at regeneration. The ECU will keep trying for 15 minutes, but after two 15 minute attempts the soot levels (loading) in the DPF will have increased. At a soot loading of 50 per cent the ECU will have another go at clearing it. It raises the maximum exhaust temperature to somewhere between 600ºC and 650ºC to try and trigger a regeneration process. The system will try to create a regeneration for another 15 minutes and if this doesn’t work it will have one more go for 15 minutes. After this the DPF light on the dash will be illuminated.
If anyone opens the driver’s handbook to see what this light might mean, they will see that the DPF has been partially blocked with bits of soot because the car has only done short journeys. The driver then needs to drive at a speed of at least 40 mph for around 10 minutes to clear it. This type of drive should allow the temperature in the DPF to become high enough to burn off the soot.

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Oct 29, 2008
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Passive regeneration happens as you are driving along at higher revs. Forced regeneration hapens when the ECU decides it needs to regenerate the filter while this happens you need to drive at over 2500revs for at least 20mins. BEWARE forced regeneration causes oil dilution as diesel can pass the piston rings into the oil. If the forced regeneration fails it will try again until it either completes its job or decides to stop and put the warning light on.
DPF vehicles use more expensive oil and need more frequent oil changes under certain circumstances or driving styles!
 
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Passive regeneration happens as you are driving along at higher revs. Forced regeneration hapens when the ECU decides it needs to regenerate the filter while this happens you need to drive at over 2500revs for at least 20mins. BEWARE forced regeneration causes oil dilution as diesel can pass the piston rings into the oil. If the forced regeneration fails it will try again until it either completes its job or decides to stop and put the warning light on.
DPF vehicles use more expensive oil and need more frequent oil changes under certain circumstances or driving styles!

Totally agree with all above but the ash that is left behind after the soot is burnt will still cause a problem with pressure build up over time and the DPF will need replacing or cleaning at some point in the future, more money but I'm sure you rich Motorhomers that run with a DPF can afford it,:D
 

Staten Island

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Hi Tonka,
I am having a problem with the dpf. An auto electrician's device showed a possible 4 faults. I have tried taking it for a run at 3000 rpm for 30 minutes to no avail so was going to try replacing the main sensor but read your post about the electrical connection being different. Is the updated part number 51908411? Have you still got it? My MH Euro 5 was registered in March 2012 but I assume was made late 2011 so I wonder if I would have the same problem as yourself. I saw on here that a Fiat dealer had to supply new hoses as well to make the new part to fit. Did you think the original hoses would have been OK with the new part.
When you disconnected the wiring and refixed it to your existing sensor did you do anything else, like clean it etc, as I took mine off and put back but the light is still showing.

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May 8, 2011
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DPF light came on in my wife's car recently. It's a Nissan quashqi and very low geared so always up in the 3,000 area. Told she needed a new DPF no way round it. £2,000!!!!! WTF!
 

ambulancekidd

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DPF light came on in my wife's car recently. It's a Nissan quashqi and very low geared so always up in the 3,000 area. Told she needed a new DPF no way round it. £2,000!!!!! WTF!

Have the DPF removed, inject Mr Muscle (yes really) into the DPF at one end, then block it off to keep the cleaner in place. Now repeat the process on the other end of the DPF remembering to block it off, leave cleaner in situ for around 12hrs then wash the DPF out with a hose, refitting is reversal of strip down but you swear in different places & all should be good. I've just had my Sprinter down & once the engine management light was cleared of the fault by the computer all was well. Cost 3 quid or so, now that has to be good news & what do you have to lose?

Robert.

PS; Opps its Mr Muscle oven cleaner.
 
Last edited:
May 8, 2011
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Have the DPF removed, inject Mr Muscle (yes really) into the DPF at one end, then block it off to keep the cleaner in place. Now repeat the process on the other end of the DPF remembering to block it off, leave cleaner in situ for around 12hrs then wash the DPF out with a hose, refitting is reversal of strip down but you swear in different places & all should be good. I've just had my Sprinter down & once the engine management light was cleared of the fault by the computer all was well. Cost 3 quid or so, now that has to be good news & what do you have to lose?

Robert.
£2000 as it's been done but many thanks for the tip.:xThumb:

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tonka

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Hi Tonka,
I am having a problem with the dpf. An auto electrician's device showed a possible 4 faults. I have tried taking it for a run at 3000 rpm for 30 minutes to no avail so was going to try replacing the main sensor but read your post about the electrical connection being different. Is the updated part number 51908411? Have you still got it? My MH Euro 5 was registered in March 2012 but I assume was made late 2011 so I wonder if I would have the same problem as yourself. I saw on here that a Fiat dealer had to supply new hoses as well to make the new part to fit. Did you think the original hoses would have been OK with the new part.
When you disconnected the wiring and refixed it to your existing sensor did you do anything else, like clean it etc, as I took mine off and put back but the light is still showing.

I think that part number relates to the same as what i have here.. It's been a while since this all went on so i have forgot most of it without going throught it all again.. If you search that number you come across the part i have sat here on my desk and i did not use.. If you go to fiat then i think they supply this new sensor but also you need 2 new pipes and an electrical connector. There is another thread on here with more info but you may need to subscribe to search for it..
The one i bought from ebay and never used is sat here and owe's me £25. Same as one in picture. If anyone wants it then pm me..
My outcome was that local garage fitted the same sensor but not Fiat branded for £160.
 

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Mr B

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Just drive it like you stole it :)

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tonka

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@Staten Island I have sent you a PM with details of the garage. Not sure if you will get it as your not showing as a subscriber. Well worth the subs to be a full member...
 

Staten Island

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Good morning Tonka,
I got your PM and appreciate your assistance.
I will contact the garage and hopefully they will sort my problem.
Thanks again.
 

Spanishsteve

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'I think the initial issues with dpf were pretty much ironed out by most mfr s last decade..'

Royal Mail ordered hundreds of Fiat Doblo vans about 2 years ago. Most if not all are used stop start for very short distances, the DPF fault light are coming on after about 150 miles when you then have to start the DPF regeneration process which takes about 15 mins. If the drivers ignore the fault light then after about 30 miles the engine goes into limp mode.
Manufacturers are now designing engines with a different engine manifold whereby the DPF is much hotter so less likely to get blocked.
I understand the person who ordered these RM vans had his backside kicked.

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Ivory55

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Our postman has that trouble. They took their bikes away from them in our village and gave them all vans, I guess it's better for the environment . Haha
 

Spanishsteve

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Our postman has that trouble. They took their bikes away from them in our village and gave them all vans, I guess it's better for the environment . Haha
It's called 'Park and Loop' and is supposed to be more efficient, probably thought up by a graduate entry in his first week.
 

Glandwr

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It has been known to bash the guts straight out of the pdf. Of course you need to remap to disable sensors. Illegal of course but ask down the right pub and Bob's your uncle for less than a hundred quid.

Dick

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Geo

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The trade gets very good results from a new,ish Forte additive to help with DPF regen
As with all their products it speaks for itself via happy customers
Similar to their fuel treatment but made specifically to help regen ,it simply increases the Cetane Rating of Diesel
same as octane rating is to petrol, and in turn make temperature higher in lower revs thereby avoiding the thrash technique. and is a steady longer clean out period over the tank full of fuel
Try the rest then use the best, can be found HERE as an example as well as your average Garage workshop
Dont except open bottles like some on flea bay, they are always sealed, Ive had offers for my empty's:xsurprised:
G
 

Allanm

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My car started it regeneration process a couple of days ago, it felt like it was misfiring a little after a gentle run through the countryside. I thought I'd speed it up a bit by driving along our local, mostly empty dual carriageway using the method mentioned by Munchie. ( high revs in 4th instead of 6th) So 5000 revs for a few miles and the scenery was going faster than I thought it should. Oh how I laughed when I realised it in 6th gear.........officer.......
 

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