Novice attempts a Peugeot Boxer conversion. (1 Viewer)

Oct 9, 2019
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That was a lot of replies very quick! Thanks to all for taking the time to write something.




Thanks. I only intend to put one two way fan in - but I also intend to get a professional to do it. No way am I brave enough to cut a hole in the roof!! ? I might have a go on the back doors, just because if I do royally mess it up I can get a replacement door. View attachment 372691


I've not given myself a time frame. It's just an as and when thing. However, with the pubs shut (I'm an assistant manager in a pub) I should have quite a bit of time. Only thing will be getting hold of materials with the current climate.


I have watched his build series. It's really useful and he clearly knows what he's talking about in great detail.


I appreciate that. However most of the heat is lost through the windscreen and side windows. I intend to use my van in the depths of winter. So a wall would be best insulation. But nothing in the plan is set in stone!
Take a look at fiammi insulated curtain instead of bulkhead.https://www.johnscross.co.uk/fiamma-thermo-wall-ducato.html
you would probably regret not having swivel chairs if you left the bulkhead in as if there is 2 of you in van you may need the extra seating room Also if you leave bulkhead in then your cabin area will still be cold even though you have heated up your habitation area.
polar thermal screens on the outside will ensure you are protected from the elements.

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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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Hows the build going???

Now that I have been released from Coventry, (I think I'm missing a reference to something with that term because I've got no idea why it should be called that) I can tell you that the build is going very well. Thanks for asking! (y) All the lights are in, as is the water system, diesel heater etc. It's fully done with the cladding and stained.

Next I will be building and installing the cupboards for above the kitchen and putting a door on the space above the drivers cab to turn that into a cupboard too. Then on to smartening up the rough edges and carpeting odd bits of wall and making it look neater.

I cannot decide if I want to put in an inverter or not.

I would like to get someone to install a gas hob and / or oven and the relevant gas locker etc at some point.

I also have to install a fridge, but that can weight until I have saved up enough pennies. (You need lots of pennies for a 12v fridge. They are astonishingly more pennies than a household 240v for some reason).

I also have this vague idea of putting a shower pan in the bottom of the bench seating, and lining the sides in waterproof material so, I could have a wash while standing in it. It's hard to explain verbally but if I ever get around to it I'll post some pictures.

So the conversion is getting there. It's certainly livable now that I have a heater 🔥 and a running water tap. I also installed a voltage limiter to the tap which has slowed the flow down to a less tsunami like event. Actually now it's great. The limiter was only a couple of pounds but its a fantastic solution. For the moment I'm making do with a camping stove for cooking.

However....

I am having engine trouble. The DPF light is on, as is the engine warning light. It's put itself into limp mode. My mate from the RAC has been doing some diagnostic work on it today. He's tested the DPF and it's not blocked. However it will not run a forced regeneration. He thinks this is because the "5th injector?", which injects fuel into the DPF during a regen, is blocked. He attempted to remove to make sure but it is well stuck. It's going into a garage tomorrow to be removed (cut out?) and replaced. I think that's what he said. I'm no mechanic and a lot of what he tells me goes over my head. Generally I just do what he tells me to. He's a good mechanic and a great guy to know. He's saved me a fortune in diagnostic work (I was quoted about £95 / hour just to find a fault, with no guarantee on being correct!) or someone telling me I need a new DPF when I actually don't. A new DPF is about £900 plus VAT plus labour. So it's bad that the van isn't running but it's a lot better than I thought. 💸


van.jpg


The gap under the bed is for the fridge.
 
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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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Looking good mate. Do you need to watch the weight of it and make sure you have a decent payload.

The kerb weight is 1845 kg. The gross weight allowed is 3000 kg, I think. So I've got 1155 kg to play with. Not sure what I've added. I plan on taking it to a weigh bridge when it's finished to make sure it's okay. Would think it is though!? I don't have a big underslung water or waste tanks which surely are usually a big part of increased payloads in conversations?

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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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A lot of the weight will be in the woodwork. Make sure you buy lightweight plywood.

It's mostly lined with thin tongue and groove on stud work in an effort to keep lightness. I'll be amazed if I'm over (and would have no idea how a builder ever uses them) but time will tell. :giggle:
 
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Jan 1, 2017
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Looking good, you are braver than me to do your own ! Thanks for the update, really interesting, show us more photos when you have time

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Jamesh

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Looks good.

Are you going to stain the timber all the same?

I'd go for a 240v fridge running off an inverter. It will be cheaper and much better at cooling.

Our expensive 12v dosen't get cool very cool. It's built inside a cabinet but even with vent holes it struggles. Under your bed I doubt it will be any better.

If being off grid the majority of the time and not driving then 12v However if on hook up / driving with a split charge circuit then get a 240v fridge

Cheers James
 
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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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Looks good.

Are you going to stain the timber all the same?

I'd go for a 240v fridge running off an inverter. It will be cheaper and much better at cooling.

Our expensive 12v dosen't get cool very cool. It's built inside a cabinet but even with vent holes it struggles. Under your bed I doubt it will be any better.

If being off grid the majority of the time and not driving then 12v However if on hook up / driving with a split charge circuit then get a 240v fridge

Cheers James

Hi James.

Yes, the wooden roof has all been stained now. The beam with the lights set into it is the darker colour of the cupboard door you can see under the bed. The rest of the roof is the lighter colour of that cupboard door. My porta potti is in that cupboard, and pulls out in a little draw I made for it with wheels on the underside. The draw fastens into holes in the sides of the cupboard with door bolt fastens.

I plan to be mostly off grid, so 12v fridge is probably best. I hope the fridge will be vented well because the wall to each side is made up of battons of wood with large gaps and not solid.

People I have spoken to are unsure that campsites will be happy to host a van that looks like a builders van from outside. Seems a bit snoby to me, but I'm not really interested in sites anyway I don't think. Still curious if others have found sites unaccommodating with builders style vans.
 
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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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I thought I'd share some of the work I've been doing in the van again today.

I built a few shelves for books and bits and pieces and secured my clock in place. Just that clock and one book made it feels super homey. Please ignore mattress propped up with a dustpan while the stain dries! :roflmto:

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I finally got around to building the cupboard above the drivers cab. Still needs painting and a latch to stop it opening while driving and I need to pick another animal door handle. I've been putting this off for ages but it has got to be finished before I can build the high level kitchen cupboards. The kitchen cupboards will be in front of the right hand side of the above cab cupboard.

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The heater lives in this box. The top still needs painting green.

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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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Finished them today.

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I have to say I'm quite proud of these and I like the contrast of the jacobean dark oak stain of the framing and the white of the doors.

The handles are animals again. This time a swallow and a squirrel.

I have some gas struts coming tomorrow to hold the cupboard doors open.



A little shelf built onto the end - possibly for a fake plant and my phone / keys at night?

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I built the bottom shelf to fit these plastic boxes. Packs of two of the big ones for £3 on special at Aldi. They match the green of some of my walls.

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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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Great job, you must be proud of what you have achieved.
Are you planning on holidaying in it, or is it to live in ?

I'm hoping to go back to university and do a masters. I'll live in it part time for that. So, sort of semi full time. Probably four days to two weeks at a time.

I don't want to pay astronomical student rents again and after what happened to students renting this year (having to pay for flats they weren't allowed to live in because they all went home because of covid) the idea of van life appeals more and more.

Obviously travel is a big part of it too. Around this country. But a big dream is to get it on the ferry to Norway and get up north and chase the northern lights.

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Northernraider

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I can see what is in my opinion a big mistake in that you talk of a hatch or doorway into the hab area. No professional converters separate the front seats from the rear and always incorporate them into the build by making them swivel round.
Thats one of the main reasons for building yourself .... professional converters aim at maximum choice of punter but many including myself like the seperate cab and hab areas.
 
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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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Thats one of the main reasons for building yourself .... professional converters aim at maximum choice of punter but many including myself like the seperate cab and hab areas.

Exactly. I have built it how I want it. And that's the beauty of a DIY van.

I don't want all the heat escaping through the single glazed windows in the cab. People say get an insulated curtain. There's no way that's better than my wall with ply, six inches of recycled bottle loft insulation and another layer of ply. Also I don't want people looking into the back. And having a wall or bulkhead is defiantly safer in a crash.

I love the back of my van. Lovely, toasty and warm, no drafts, private, exact layout I wanted. No compromises whatsoever.

If I want to let in daylight I open the door into my cab and light pours in. Or I open one of the two roof hatches.
 

Northernraider

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Exactly. I have built it how I want it. And that's the beauty of a DIY van.

I don't want all the heat escaping through the single glazed windows in the cab. People say get an insulated curtain. There's no way that's better than my wall with ply, six inches of recycled bottle loft insulation and another layer of ply. Also I don't want people looking into the back. And having a wall or bulkhead is defiantly safer in a crash.

I love the back of my van. Lovely, toasty and warm, no drafts, private, exact layout I wanted. No compromises whatsoever.

If I want to let in daylight I open the door into my cab and light pours in. Or I open one of the two roof hatches.
Yep the glass windows are condensation magnets and the only way to stop it is an external screen which also stops you from being able to drive off.

In 3.5 years of living in my van ive only ever had to move in the middle of the night on 2 or 3 occasions and ive not been under threat just noisy.

While the cab seats are comfy i prefer to lounge in the back with my feet up ..ill be fitting a bulkhead in my vario build also.
I may put a hatch in but likely not

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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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Yep the glass windows are condensation magnets and the only way to stop it is an external screen which also stops you from being able to drive off.

In 3.5 years of living in my van ive only ever had to move in the middle of the night on 2 or 3 occasions and ive not been under threat just noisy.

While the cab seats are comfy i prefer to lounge in the back with my feet up ..ill be fitting a bulkhead in my vario build also.
I may put a hatch in but likely not

I really wanted the door so I could move on without going outside. Feels much safer but I doubt I'll ever need it.
 
Dec 2, 2019
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looking at the build i would go and weigh it before you go any further
Agree, I put 600kg of materials and appliances in my conversion. At first visit on the scales that 600kg was more like 900kg. Things add up very fast, but on the plus side I’ve been left with 550 kg for driver, passenger, shopping and supplies. The diesel was full as well as the water tank and toilet flush.

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Northernraider

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One of the beauties of converting a 7.5 tonne van ive over 3.5 tonne to play with


I can't really see anything in that van thats any heavier than most of the builds ive seen on similar vans on YouTube and instagram ....in fact several ive seen have to be way over
 
Jan 1, 2017
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looking at the build i would go and weigh it before you go any further
Great advice, My first motorhome, a Benimar , was loaded up with all the ‘necessary’ stuff... and got worried about the weight. Checked it at the Shoreham weigh bridge it was considerably under the limit , gave me piece of mind ....
 
Jan 1, 2017
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Its great to see you are happy and know what you want, I’ve just read a VW magazine, frankly the interior design doesnt need a lot of effort ( no offence anyone) , rock and roll bed, wardrobe hob sink fridge, swivels, but they all look samey... keep on going !!

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Dec 2, 2019
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One of the beauties of converting a 7.5 tonne van ive over 3.5 tonne to play with


I can't really see anything in that van thats any heavier than most of the builds ive seen on similar vans on YouTube and instagram ....in fact several ive seen have to be way over
I would still keep it as light as possible. Being on the limit drives like a lorry, accelerated wear and tear, noisy tyres and consumption through the roof. I would say at 75-80% of max, fully loaded for the trip, is bang on. That gives room for long stays supplies along the way.
 
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CamperJack
Oct 11, 2019
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looking at the build i would go and weigh it before you go any further

Thanks for your advice. But I very much doubt I'll be over, or anywhere near over. As I have already said I will be getting it weighed to be sure. But no point until I have finished.

I have looked into it actually.

The kerb weight of an L3H2 is 2025 kg (as I understand it kerb weight includes driver at 75 kg plus full fluids - diesel, coolant etc). Limit is 3500 kg. So load allowed to be added is 1475 kg. That's almost one and a half metric ton!

I don't think I'll be over that. I don't have much that weighs a lot, not really.

I have no big fresh water tanks (only one plastic 25 L jerry can). No grey waste tank (only one 10 L jerry can). Black waste is a little porta potti. No gas yet but that will be one single refill bottle. So no big heavy tanks that most conversions and professional built MHs have.

Inside I think I'm fairly standard, if a little smaller even. One double bed (built with bed slats, not a solid sheet of ply), one bench seat (made with framing batons and 7 mm cladding which is very light weight - 10 pieces at 2.4 M is only 3.5 kg), one pair of B&Q kitchen cupboards, two home built above kitchen cupboards (made with box framing, thin cladding and a base of 6mm ply). Most vans have a kitchen on both sides. I only have it on one.

I'm not worried in the slightest but the weighbridge will tell me, eventually.
 
Jan 1, 2017
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Finding a working weighbridge may take time anyway, its really useful to know the weight, the one I used shows weight on each axle so it helped us to even out our packing...

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