that would be isolated rather that insulated and yesI am quite electric blind, and I’m just about to purchase a Victron 30ah dc to dc charger.
My motorhome is a 1995/6 Hymer B654.
Would I be right in saying that the non-insulated version would be fine for this vehicle?
And, for educational purposes, what are the differences and when would you choose one over the other?
Some vans have a separate 12v leisure system which is not earthed through the vehicle chassis for various reasons, in this case you need the isolated version, if your leisure battery is earthed through your chassis then the none-isolated will work ok.And, for educational purposes, what are the differences and when would you choose one over the other?
Would using 12v on a 24v truck conversion mean you would need isolated Steve? Not that I am likely to do it, just out of interest really. I though isolated was where there is no common ground or where a common ground in not wanted such as boats as you saidDo you have any examples of what vans, and what reasons?
Would using 12v on a 24v truck conversion mean you would need isolated Steve?
The leisure battery is under the drivers seat in our van, fitted the Victron to the rear frame of the passenger seat, victron earth to van earth, positive in to vehicle battery and positive out to leisure battery, i used 16mm cable with 2 inline resettable 60amp fuses.Can I ask how you did that?
I have the shunt in and working already. I think this is the wiring that you are suggesting?The SmartShunt is a method of measuring the amps going into and out of a battery. Normally the B terminal connects to the negative terminal of the chosen battery. In your case, you have a pair of leisure batteries that you want to monitor. You can connect one negative to the B terminal, and have a link between the two leisure battery negatives, as in your diagram. Or you can connect two equal links from the B terminal to each of the two leisure batteries. Either way is fine.
However, everything else to the leisure battery negative must go to the SmartShunt A terminal. That includes any B2B connection, and any chassis/earth connection. If anything goes direct to the battery, it bypasses the shunt and cannot be accounted for. So the wire from the DC/DC charger needs to be moved.
The starter battery voltage can be measured using a separate wire from a special terminal. It doesn't go to either A or B. Note that it only measures voltage, not amps and State Of Charge like the main terminals.