No mains electric (1 Viewer)

[Folkranger]

Unplugged the van from the mains at home and drove 2 hours to site. Mains now not working. Tried someone else's lead and still nothing so its a fault in the van. The mains trip switches are on so nothing tripped. But no mains. We'll be alright for the weekend on 12v and gas but Dores anyone know of anything else to try?

 

[Folkranger]

I missed this last night...

This is definitely why you had no mains in the van. It needs to be on inverter for the ehu to pass through.

Sorry that's not right. The ehu will not pass through in the middle (off) position but it works in either the left (charger only) or right (on) position. It's been on charger only throughout this and that's where I leave it unless I need to use the inverter. I had checked that it was definitely in this position by switching it off and back.

 

[Folkranger]

It could be the battery is really low. Leave ehu on, and the easyplus on and see how it goes.

The battery was at100%.

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[Folkranger]

I wonder whether it was the inverter load which triggered the recovery or was it using the 3 way switch on the remote. Could the switch be faulty? after all its centre position switches off the mains.
Anybody know of any problems with these remotes?

 

[Folkranger]

When the switch is put from off to charger only, the blue mains light flashes for a few seconds before the relay clicks in then goes solid blue as the mains comes on. When I had the problem there were no lights at all on the remote.

 

[autorouter]

The Easyplus is an excellent solution for mains power when off-grid, and also is great when connected to EHU. It's basically an inverter/charger unit with all the mains connections and switching built-in.

The mains input can go straight to the Easyplus. It's a plug that pulls out from the connector at the bottom, so you can easily check the connections are good (unplug the EHU first, of course).

There are four mains outputs. Three of them (outputs 1, 2 and 3) are on separate circuit breakers. They also have plugs at the bottom of the Easyplus, which again you can easily pull out and check. These three outputs are powered by the inverter, and will work both on EHU and off-grid (from the batteries).

The fourth output (output 0) does not come from the inverter, and is only powered when on EHU. This is intended for non-inverter loads, that you don't want to be powered from your batteries. The water heater is a good example. That's why it's labelled 'Boiler' on your Easyplus.

When on EHU, turn the inverter ON so that the inverter and non-inverter loads can be powered. The non-inverter loads are sometimes referred to as 'pass-through', but they aren't a simple direct pass-through, the inverter has to be ON for them to work.

You should check the 'Power Assist' setting on the Remote Panel. This is the maximum amps that you decide you can take from the EHU. You can set this up to 16A. If the EHU limit is 6A, you should set it to 6A. If your loads exceed 6A for a short time, the Easyplus will boost it by adding power from the batteries. The maximum it can add is 1600VA, which is about 1200W. That's 5A at 240V.

When the loads reduce to below the set 6A limit, the Easyplus recharges the batteries ready for the next time.

So you can use up to 6 + 5 = 11A from a 6A EHU post.

You need to check the EHU input limit on the remote panel, it might be set too low. Or too high. Either would cause it to trip out.

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[autorouter]

the blue mains light flashes for a few seconds before the relay clicks in then goes solid blue as the mains comes on.

That's the inverter/charger synchronising itself to the incoming mains frequency and voltage. It takes a few seconds to do this.

 

[The Wino]

The Easyplus is an excellent solution for mains power when off-grid, and also is great when connected to EHU. It's basically an inverter/charger unit with all the mains connections and switching built-in.

The mains input can go straight to the Easyplus. It's a plug that pulls out from the connector at the bottom, so you can easily check the connections are good (unplug the EHU first, of course).

There are four mains outputs. Three of them (outputs 1, 2 and 3) are on separate circuit breakers. They also have plugs at the bottom of the Easyplus, which again you can easily pull out and check. These three outputs are powered by the inverter, and will work both on EHU and off-grid (from the batteries).

The fourth output (output 0) does not come from the inverter, and is only powered when on EHU. This is intended for non-inverter loads, that you don't want to be powered from your batteries. The water heater is a good example. That's why it's labelled 'Boiler' on your Easyplus.

When on EHU, turn the inverter ON so that the inverter and non-inverter loads can be powered. The non-inverter loads are sometimes referred to as 'pass-through', but they aren't a simple direct pass-through, the inverter has to be ON for them to work.

You should check the 'Power Assist' setting on the Remote Panel. This is the maximum amps that you decide you can take from the EHU. You can set this up to 16A. If the EHU limit is 6A, you should set it to 6A. If your loads exceed 6A for a short time, the Easyplus will boost it by adding power from the batteries. The maximum it can add is 1600VA, which is about 1200W. That's 5A at 240V.

When the loads reduce to below the set 6A limit, the Easyplus recharges the batteries ready for the next time.

So you can use up to 6 + 5 = 11A from a 6A EHU post.

You need to check the EHU input limit on the remote panel, it might be set too low. Or too high. Either would cause it to trip out.

Sounds really good. We just avoid mains electrical appliances!

 

[Folkranger]

That's the inverter/charger synchronising itself to the incoming mains frequency and voltage. It takes a few seconds to do this.

That's what I suspected. The point is i didn’t even get the blue flashing light before. Still trying to trace the route of the problem.

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[autorouter]

When I had the problem there were no lights at all on the remote.

Did you see the lights on the Easyplus unit? Could it have been the connection between that and the remote? If it happens again, try unplugging the remote and controlling it with the switch on the front of the Easyplus.

If there's no lights at all, then you've lost both the grid mains supply and the battery supply. That's why I asked if the battery supply was OK.

 

[Folkranger]

Did you see the lights on the Easyplus unit? Could it have been the connection between that and the remote? If it happens again, try unplugging the remote and controlling it with the switch on the front of the Easyplus.

If there's no lights at all, then you've lost both the grid mains supply and the battery supply. That's why I asked if the battery supply was OK.

There weren't any lights on the easyplus either. Only thing is when I toggled the switch on the easyplus I would get a momentary flash of all three lights. The inverter worked fine and it was after trying out the inverter that the mains came back on. I really don't understand how this equipment works, just what it does.

 

[autorouter]

Inside is a bi-directional converter. It can convert 12V DC to 230V AC (acting as an inverter) or can convert 230V AC to 12V DC (acting as a charger).

If you're off-grid, it can only act as an inverter. There's three outputs AC1, AC2 and AC3. Obviously it can't act as a charger.

If you're connected to EHU, in charger-only mode, the converter acts as a charger. It is supposed to pass through the EHU supply to the fourth output, AC0. In addition, it can cut down the charging to avoid drawing too much from the EHU supply.

For example, the 70A charger takes about 4 amps from the EHU supply. If you had a microwave taking 5A from the EHU, and the EHU was limited to 6A, then the EHU would trip (it would be trying to draw 9 amps). If you set the current limit to 6A, the Easyplus would reduce the charger draw to 1A, so that the total was 6A.

But there's more. If it's in inverter mode, the inverter can supply 1600VA (about 1200W). That's just over 5A at 230V. This device is clever enough to work with the EHU supply. If the current limit is set to 6A, the Easyplus will combine the two, so that a load of 6 + 5 = 11A can be connected. It will supply the 5A from the batteries, while limiting the EHU input current to 6A.

The inverter-boosted output is only available on AC1, 2 and 3, but not on AC0. Also if the EHU post limit is higher, you'll need to consider the MCBs on AC1, 2 and 3, which are 10, 10 and 16A. But it gives you a lot more freedom to use higher-power mains appliances on low-power EHU posts.

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[Folkranger]

Inside is a bi-directional converter. It can convert 12V DC to 230V AC (acting as an inverter) or can convert 230V AC to 12V DC (acting as a charger).

If you're off-grid, it can only act as an inverter. There's three outputs AC1, AC2 and AC3. Obviously it can't act as a charger.

If you're connected to EHU, in charger-only mode, the converter acts as a charger. It is supposed to pass through the EHU supply to the fourth output, AC0. In addition, it can cut down the charging to avoid drawing too much from the EHU supply.

For example, the 70A charger takes about 4 amps from the EHU supply. If you had a microwave taking 5A from the EHU, and the EHU was limited to 6A, then the EHU would trip (it would be trying to draw 9 amps). If you set the current limit to 6A, the Easyplus would reduce the charger draw to 1A, so that the total was 6A.

But there's more. If it's in inverter mode, the inverter can supply 1600VA (about 1200W). That's just over 5A at 230V. This device is clever enough to work with the EHU supply. If the current limit is set to 6A, the Easyplus will combine the two, so that a load of 6 + 5 = 11A can be connected. It will supply the 5A from the batteries, while limiting the EHU input current to 6A.

The inverter-boosted output is only available on AC1, 2 and 3, but not on AC0. Also if the EHU post limit is higher, you'll need to consider the MCBs on AC1, 2 and 3, which are 10, 10 and 16A. But it gives you a lot more freedom to use higher-power mains appliances on low-power EHU posts.

Inside is a bi-directional converter. It can convert 12V DC to 230V AC (acting as an inverter) or can convert 230V AC to 12V DC (acting as a charger).

If you're off-grid, it can only act as an inverter. There's three outputs AC1, AC2 and AC3. Obviously it can't act as a charger.

If you're connected to EHU, in charger-only mode, the converter acts as a charger. It is supposed to pass through the EHU supply to the fourth output, AC0. In addition, it can cut down the charging to avoid drawing too much from the EHU supply.

For example, the 70A charger takes about 4 amps from the EHU supply. If you had a microwave taking 5A from the EHU, and the EHU was limited to 6A, then the EHU would trip (it would be trying to draw 9 amps). If you set the current limit to 6A, the Easyplus would reduce the charger draw to 1A, so that the total was 6A.

But there's more. If it's in inverter mode, the inverter can supply 1600VA (about 1200W). That's just over 5A at 230V. This device is clever enough to work with the EHU supply. If the current limit is set to 6A, the Easyplus will combine the two, so that a load of 6 + 5 = 11A can be connected. It will supply the 5A from the batteries, while limiting the EHU input current to 6A.

The inverter-boosted output is only available on AC1, 2 and 3, but not on AC0. Also if the EHU post limit is higher, you'll need to consider the MCBs on AC1, 2 and 3, which are 10, 10 and 16A. But it gives you a lot more freedom to use higher-power mains appliances on low-power EHU posts.

Thanks for your comprehensive posts on this subject. please tell me if I'm missing something but:

I tend to keep the 3 way switch set to "charger only" as it uses 9 watts more in "inverter" position.

Should I need to use the inverter I would switch to inverter for that operation only, then back. I do this for the odd cuppa when on the road or occasionally just to use battery when I know that either solar or driving will replace the charge.

I understand the basics of shore current being supplemented by the inverter and if i ever find myself on a site with low amperage then I may well switch to "inverter" and adjust the rotary switch to allow the inverter to add to the available ehu amps, however I can't recall the last time that I managed to trip the site mains.

As I say, please tell me if I'm missing something.

 

[autorouter]

For your usage I don't think you're missing anything. Leaving it set to Charger Only makes it very similar to standard distribution/fuseboxes that have a built-in charger. Like an Electroblock or a CBE box. You don't seem to use the inverter a lot, and don't have a problem with low amp EHU hookups.

That white box with an RCD + MCB in it, could that be the 'pass-through supply to the water heater? If it is, it will come from AC0 'Boiler' output , and go through the RCD + MCB. Maybe that box was originally already in place for the whole mains circuitry, and the previous owner then added the Easyplus, and left the water heater circuit in place but moved everything else to the Easyplus MCBs.

I was thinking that if the water heater element had failed and was leaking to earth, that would trip the Easyplus and possibly cause those symptoms you originally described. It might be an intermittent fault.