New van - drilling holes in the garage floor - warranty, other services? (1 Viewer)

Paddywack

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So we have a new Hymer T588 and a nice new Thule Veloslide and I want to unite the two. Instructions state drill holes through floor, now I'm fairly handy with DIY and the like but I'll admit I am terrified at the thought of doing something that a) invalidates the warranty b) goes through a hidden cable or c) both.

Should I man up and get on with it or allow Travelworld to charge me £113 for an hours labour, for the apprentice to drill 9 holes when I'm back there next Thursday?

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Jul 5, 2013
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We drilled our Hymer floor for the wheel chock for the scooter rack without any problems. Because of the higher weights I decided to use some 50mm x 20mm flat ali bar to spread the load underneath and stuck it down and sealed it with Puraflex 40 from Toolstation. The floor will probably be 30mm GRP/foam/GRP sandwich construction and even using 50mm dia washers it tends to dent a bit when you tighten up. I would also recommend using stainless steel bolts nuts and washers rather than galvanised. They are not much more expensive if you buy from fleabay.
 
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Paddywack

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Does it need to be drilled? We fitted our scooter rack to the floor with sikaflex, never budged in 3 years. Mind you the scooter was strapped down too.

I have lots of Sikaflex (I run a marina) and I like this idea, but I'm concerned with the leverage the unit will place when slid out - but we're only talking two carbon bikes combined weight with the rack less than 20kg so I'm thinking it should be within the sikaflex bonding strength.

Out of interest did you scooter rack pull out like the veloslide or was it static?
 

Armytwowheels

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I have lots of Sikaflex (I run a marina) and I like this idea, but I'm concerned with the leverage the unit will place when slid out - but we're only talking two carbon bikes combined weight with the rack less than 20kg so I'm thinking it should be within the sikaflex bonding strength.

Out of interest did you scooter rack pull out like the veloslide or was it static?
No, it is static, and we brace the scooter to the floor when travelling, so there is no sideways leverage under braking. You could do the same with the bikes.

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Northernraider

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Do it yourself as long as you seal around the bolt holes with sikaflex it shouldn't let water in.
Not sure if be keen on just sikaflexing it
 
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Paddywack

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Do it yourself as long as you seal around the bolt holes with sikaflex it shouldn't let water in.
Not sure if be keen on just sikaflexing it
As the photo I've posted above I'm going to make up some brackets and attach them to the T track - and a lot of sikaflex!

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Aug 6, 2013
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Do it yourself as long as you seal around the bolt holes with sikaflex it shouldn't let water in.
Not sure if be keen on just sikaflexing it
Sikaflex is no problem - if you stuck a 2" x 2" plate to a GRP sandwich panel the GRP would tear before the adhesive let go. I have a 250w solar panel held by four 3 x 4 inch pads and an Oyster dish unit with the base plate stuck on with Sikaflex.
 

Northernraider

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Sikaflex is no problem - if you stuck a 2" x 2" plate to a GRP sandwich panel the GRP would tear before the adhesive let go. I have a 250w solar panel held by four 3 x 4 inch pads and an Oyster dish unit with the base plate stuck on with Sikaflex.
Do you think my proposed brackets is overkill and that sikaflex on its own is sufficient ?
That's my concern ...if it did fall over it would rip the top layer of the floor of. Whereas if it was bolted through the floor with plates on the underside it is less likely to rip the bolts out or pull a section of complete floor out.

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Paddywack

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So you've got an £80,000 motorhome, a bike mounting that's cost a few hundred quid and a couple of expensive bikes to mount on it but you'd risk losing your vehicle warranty for the sake of £113? Or did I miss something?

D.
Fair point!

Part of the attraction in getting it working before the visit to Telford is that we are calling in there on our return from further down sarf and would like to use the rack to carry the bikes on that part of the holiday.

Taking on board all the points on here I think i might rig a temporary solution and splash the cash to avoid any potential problems with the warranty in the future.
 
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scotjimland

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I bolted my bike rack in the garage.. and used sika to seal the holes..

I used s/s bolts with large s/s washers on the underside.

Before drilling I checked I was not on top of a chassis member, cable or pipe run..

if you decide to remove it , it will be a lot easier than trying to remove a large amount of sika from the floor..

It's not a Fiamma rack , I made it myself , but same idea .. it doesn't slide out, but folds back when not required


IMG_1689.jpg IMG_1690.jpg IMG_1691.jpg

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sallylillian

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I will be interested in your final solution, I have the same unit waiting for install at home. Which size mounting brackets did you get 70 or 140.
 
Aug 6, 2013
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That's my concern ...if it did fall over it would rip the top layer of the floor of. Whereas if it was bolted through the floor with plates on the underside it is less likely to rip the bolts out or pull a section of complete floor out.
That was just to illustrate the strength of the bond. The size of bonded area needs to be the same as the plate you would have used to reinforce a bolted mounting. Easy to do with off-cuts of treadplate.
 

Northernraider

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That was just to illustrate the strength of the bond. The size of bonded area needs to be the same as the plate you would have used to reinforce a bolted mounting. Easy to do with off-cuts of treadplate.
Oh I know its strong stuff I've stuck solar panels etc down with it myself.

But they are quite low and don't really cause any pressure on the fixing points

But two bikes on racks that may be a metre in height moving forward and back with vehicle motion I'd expect to put more strain on the fixing points.

Not sure if be brave enough to just trust sikaflex with that.
But of course it may be alright ...Just expensive if it's not

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Nik

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Whilst there area some very good suggestions here I would be reluctant to do anything to the 'fabric' of the vehicle (i.e. drilling holes) which could in any way be used to invalidate any future warranty claim. Fine if a Hymer authorised person does it but with the potential costs involved down the line and the grief contained in a fight over a declined warranty claim I wouldn't do it.
 

Badknee

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Taking on board all the points on here I think i might rig a temporary solution and splash the cash to avoid any potential problems with the warranty in the future.

I would stand over them and watch them like a hawk to make sure it was done properly and to my full satisfaction ...................
No I wouldn’t, I’d do it properly myself :whistle:
 

Scotsblood

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I would stand over them and watch them like a hawk to make sure it was done properly and to my full satisfaction ...................
No I wouldn’t, I’d do it properly myself :whistle:

Having seen so called 'professional' works done on some mh's by dealers I am inclined to follow Paul, in fact I have done with the works done to my own.

Tech during hab check was very complementary about my standard of work and proceeded to show me pics of what he called 'putrights' their company had done to rectify efforts by manufacturer agents. All my work I pointed out and asked for a check it would pass inspection in event of issues, they did and nothing suggested to be a potential problem!

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dave newell

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I would stand over them and watch them like a hawk to make sure it was done properly and to my full satisfaction ...................
No I wouldn’t, I’d do it properly myself :whistle:

Sorry but no you wouldn't! You wouldn't be allowed in the workshop simple as that.

D.
 
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Check with Travelworld drilling through the floor may invalidate your warranty for the cost pay thenm to do it and it will be properly undersealed as per Hymer requirements. I have a B588DL and it’s a yearly requirement to have the dealer check and touch up the factory applied underseal to preserve the water ingress warranty. Yours will probably be the same.
 

Lenny HB

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I never worry about it if I want to drill a hole I do it. Some people worry too much. Coat any bolts protruding with black RTV then they won't look any different to bits Hymer drill.

This spraying with underseal appears to be another British rip off & they have the cheek to charge you £36 for the tin of spray which cost €17 over the water. My Belgium dealer doesn't do it and the damp check is only €70 and that seems a lot for the time it takes.

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Oct 29, 2016
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There was a similar thread here a couple of weeks back, about a guy that wanted a bike rack in his garage, not only to hold 2 bikes but other rectangular thingamagigs like tables & chairs to make them easily accessed.
I will be ordering a similar rack soon to hold 2 e bikes upright, but rather than drill holes through the floor I have two options I reckon.
1. fix bike rack to large flat piece of marine ply cut to the full width of garage floor, it wont move much if its cut in nicely.
2. Do as they do on they Premium MH's as an option, order your self some of that Chequer Plate Ali, same size as entire garage floor.then bolt bike rack from underside through it, use countersunk bolts and washers, then slide whole thing into garage, nice neat job.
Chequer plate available from lots of places and in different thicknesses too:)
Well thats my thoughts anyway, good luck.
Les
 

Lenny HB

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I don't see the need for boke racks in a garage. I just strap mine to the top rail and put some packing foam between them. Helps if you fit detachable peddles.

Just took this pic of mine they have slipped a bit but have been in there for over a 1000 miles including some rough tracks.

IMG_20181018_185506-1024x768.jpg
 
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Paddywack

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One of the reasons that I want the bikes in a garage is that they're expensive ones, I wouldn't fancy storing them as you've described. My "goat" bike yes, the good bike no.

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