New 'Toy' (e bike) Looking at charging batteries. (1 Viewer)

[Emmit]

As in the title. We have taken possession of two AS ebikes. The charger for them says 36v 1.8amps output.
Question. Is there anything out there, similar to the charger we have for the laptop where we can charge the 18v we need from the batteries without it going through an inverter. ie 12v up to 36v .
Thanks in advance.

 

[Lenny HB]

Normally because of the electronics in the battery that talk to the charger you can't just connect 36 volts to them. We just use a 1000 watt pure sine inverter for our Bosh batteries.

 

[HandyAndy]

You might be lucky in finding a high power buck boost cc/cv converter but usually these are low amp devices.

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[olley]

Here's one on eBay

 

[HandyAndy]

This is one I found with a decent explanation of what it does/ how it works if you aren't sure.

 

[Lenny HB]

They are just power supplies/ voltage converters probably won't work charging a bike battery.

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[Allanm]

We have a 1000w pure sine wave inverter that we use to charge our e batteries.
What you are talking about is a step up transformer which is really a simplified description of an inverter. 12v ( via 230v) to 36v.

 

[HandyAndy]

They are just power supplies/ voltage converters probably won't work charging a bike battery.

Doesn't quite quite work like that lenny, there is no funny black magic going on, they don't communicate with each other other than sensing the voltage level.
It is the cc / cv properties of the buck booster that regulates it.
A fully charged 36v battery is around 42v depending on chemistry type, so you set the booster in CV (Constant voltage mode) and it will endeavour to "push" that voltage toward the battery, it will supply whatever amps the battery requires and naturally taper off to zero amps as it approaches the 42v setting. It's nothing more than simple chemistry and flow of electrons. When there's no space left for the electrons to move into the battery, they stop flowing.

 

[Camping Gaza]

You need to be careful here!

Your batteries may be high density lithium based, if they are wet lead acid or gel then ignore this advice

I don't know your set up but I assume your charger is separate from your e bike battery and you plug this (your charger) into the mains240v to get 36v out that then plugs into your bike battery for charging.

As in the title. We have taken possession of two AS ebikes. The charger for them says 36v 1.8amps output.
Question. Is there anything out there, similar to the charger we have for the laptop where we can charge the 18v we need from the batteries without it going through an inverter. ie 12v up to 36v .
Thanks in advance.

If this is the case, your e bike might be using LiPo batteries, and they need very careful charging using a microprocessor controlled charging system.

If not Lipo even Li-on need careful charging. Connecting any old thing to your battery will damage your lithium based battery and could result in a nasty fire.

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[Lenny HB]

Doesn't quite quite work like that lenny, there is no funny black magic going on, they don't communicate with each other other than sensing the voltage level.

I'm sure our Bosh ones do also a bit dangerous just poking volts on li-on batteries.

 

[HandyAndy]

All the "microprocessor" in any charger is doing is ensuring the desired cap voltage is not exceeded.
Lead acid are no different really, just much less sensitive to a bad outcome. You put more than 15v into a lead acid and it will boil.
The same will happen with lipo/liIon just in a much more destructive way.
If you know the chemistry of the battery used then you can dial in the desired voltage you want it to regulate and it will be mo more or less safe than a £200 bench charger.
The only time you'll see a difference is when you have a BALANCE charger, which will look at individual cells and charge /discharge accordingly, but those are easily recognised by the fact the plug will have more than just a pozzy and neggy terminal. It will have a balance wire for every cell group in the pack.

 

[Camping Gaza]

thread not helping you much is it dear OP.

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[Emmit]

Even a negative response can be seen as a good comment. But I'm trying my best to stay positive. Boom!Boom! I'll get me coat.

 

[Bounty Hunter]

Just joined. Martin Bushnell, new owner of http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/ can supply 12 volt electric bike chargers complete with correct end for your battery for £80-£90. Email him at "mail@martinbushnell.co.uk"
John

 

[old-mo]

My E:fag just plugs in to my computer...

Don`t know if it`s the same for an E:bike...

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[Emmit]

My E:fag just plugs in to my computer...

Don`t know if it`s the same for an E:bike...

Behave or I'll send you Oop! proper North. Over the border to Nasty Nic(ola) country.

 

[Steve and Denise]

My E:fag just plugs in to my computer...

Don`t know if it`s the same for an E:bike...

So did your computer smoke ? ?

 

[Two on Tour]

We just plug ours into our Sterling 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter via the supplied 240v chargers and normally charge them when we are driving if possible, but as we have 240 Ah of lithium batteries, not essential to be on the move.

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[autorouter]

It is the cc / cv properties of the buck booster that regulates it.
A fully charged 36v battery is around 42v depending on chemistry type, so you set the booster in CV (Constant voltage mode) and it will endeavour to "push" that voltage toward the battery, it will supply whatever amps the battery requires and naturally taper off to zero amps as it approaches the 42v setting.

You have to set the current limit in Constant Voltage (CV) mode, so that the max charging current of the battery is not exceeded. Also check that the output does not crowbar down when the current limit is exceeded, as some power supplies do.

Also you have to switch off the charger when the battery is fully charged. Lithium batteries do not require or like being float charged. A simple timer would be OK, in the absence of any microprocessor control.