My Leisure Battery

Joined
Nov 4, 2011
Posts
6,614
Likes collected
47,920
Location
Uk
Funster No
18,763
MH
A class
Exp
2001
Been reading threads about people's leisure battery's , so I thought I would look at my 5 ish year old Elecsol battery's in my Hymer B584 and although they seem to be working OK, this could be down to solar panel charging them because I think one of them is buggered, see photo below!!
image.jpg

So the search is on I think, price and type, choices choices!
They are 110 amp and size restricted being under front seats.
 
that is no indication of the state of the battery remove and clean the terminals and the connections with hot water and a wire brush coat with vaseline and reconnect any deterioration of your power supply could be due to the state of the connection however you do say they are working fine
 
Its a bit of acid basically around the post and connection, i dont think it means that the battery is knackered but it does need cleaning up. Best to remove the battery and clean it up.

http://benignblog.com/2013/05/why-b...e-causes-composition-cleaning-prevention.html

I would add that you are doing OK with Elecsol at 5 years so wont be long before it needs changing.

Martin

OOps too long posting and getting link, as above post!!
 
Just bought 2 of these

Broken Link Removed

They are low hight .and weigh 6kg more than the 100 amp
Elecsol batteries that are now 5 years old so i have changed them .

Your photo shows the Green symbol is still visible mine isnt .
 
My 2 x 110 Ah Elecsols have just died at 6 years. They seemed to be OK but were being kept on life-support by the solar panel. To test, I suggest you disconnect the solar panel from the solar regulator (between panel and regulator, NOT between the regulator and the battery(ies) or regulator and EBL if the regulator is connected straight to that - hope this doesn't sound patronising). Then leave the batteries to settle for an hour or so. Then apply a modest load (say all the internal lights) and measure the voltage across the battery terminals under load. Mine could only manage about 10 volts! If yours is around 12V or less I would say the batteries are shot.
Also, with flooded lead-acid batteries under the seats (or any other internal location) they should be vented to the outside for safety - even though they are sealed batteries. Yours may well be but I cannot see the vent tube.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
My 2 x 110 Ah Elecsols have just died at 6 years. They seemed to be OK but were being kept on life-support by the solar panel. To test, I suggest you disconnect the solar panel from the solar regulator (between panel and regulator, NOT between the regulator and the battery(ies) or regulator and EBL if the regulator is connected straight to that - hope this doesn't sound patronising). Then leave the batteries to settle for an hour or so. Then apply a modest load (say all the internal lights) and measure the voltage across the battery terminals under load. Mine could only manage about 10 volts! If yours is around 12V or less I would say the batteries are shot.
Also, with flooded lead-acid batteries under the seats (or any other internal location) they should be vented to the outside for safety - even though they are sealed batteries. Yours may well be but I cannot see the vent tube.
Why would disconnecting after the regulator but before the battery make a difference instead of disconnection before the regulator. There would be no power going to the battery either way. My fuse was fitted after the regulator but before the 12 volt distribution management unit?
 
If you cut the connection between regulator and battery (or regulator and EBL) but leave the solar panel connected to the regulator, it will damage the regulator. Basically, the regulator needs to be able to dump any current coming into it, otherwise it will 'fry'.
 
If you cut the connection between regulator and battery (or regulator and EBL) but leave the solar panel connected to the regulator, it will damage the regulator. Basically, the regulator needs to be able to dump any current coming into it, otherwise it will 'fry'.
Understood thank you, I seem to have got away with it although my Steca unit does say it has overload protection. Nice to be warned though. Thanks.
 
look in your handbook for the correct order to disconnect and reconnect the solar / battery cables .
 
My 2 x 110 Ah Elecsols have just died at 6 years. They seemed to be OK but were being kept on life-support by the solar panel. To test, I suggest you disconnect the solar panel from the solar regulator (between panel and regulator, NOT between the regulator and the battery(ies) or regulator and EBL if the regulator is connected straight to that - hope this doesn't sound patronising). Then leave the batteries to settle for an hour or so. Then apply a modest load (say all the internal lights) and measure the voltage across the battery terminals under load. Mine could only manage about 10 volts! If yours is around 12V or less I would say the batteries are shot.
Also, with flooded lead-acid batteries under the seats (or any other internal location) they should be vented to the outside for safety - even though they are sealed batteries. Yours may well be but I cannot see the vent tube.
Thanks for that, doesn't sound patronising, just warning.
My battery are not vented to out side.
I think I will do as you say and disconnect the solar feed and then test it.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Then apply a modest load (say all the internal lights) and measure the voltage across the battery terminals under load. Mine could only manage about 10 volts! If yours is around 12V or less I would say the batteries are shot.
I believe this is not the correct way to test a battery but happy to be corrected.

My understanding of how to test a battery is to fully charge it then remove from charging source and place a known load of amps on the battery/ies for a known number of hours. Then remove load and wait for a few hours for battery/ies to recover and then measure battery. This will give you a true indication of the battery state.
Measuring a battery whilst under load will always give a low reading and not reflect it's true state.
 
That is usually a sign the battery has been gassing.
Boiling water is the quickest way but If you do wash with boiling water DO NOT place the battery on concrete.

It will stain it brown and nothing will remove it.

Place the battery on a piece of waste land so the water can soak in.
 
I believe this is not the correct way to test a battery but happy to be corrected.

My understanding of how to test a battery is to fully charge it then remove from charging source and place a known load of amps on the battery/ies for a known number of hours. Then remove load and wait for a few hours for battery/ies to recover and then measure battery. This will give you a true indication of the battery state.
Measuring a battery whilst under load will always give a low reading and not reflect it's true state.

I am sure you are correct, but my suggestion was a quick way to see if the batteries are past their best. I had assumed, but did not specify, that one started with a fully charged battery. In my case, it was obvious that my 6 year-old Elecsols were worn out as they would not sustain a reasonable voltage even under a modest load (I used an old 20 watt rear fog light).
 

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Latest journal entries

Back
Top