My DIY damp repair project (1 Viewer)

Jan 29, 2017
683
557
Gloucestershire
Funster No
47,109
MH
Lunar Champ H621
Exp
15yrs
An awesome job, a bit like eating an elephant- you have to do it bit by bit. Excellent work!
A big part of it is the care you have taken with the pictures and even a suppliers list.
I just hope that all this can be saved into a seperate reference doc which can be called up and used to inspire ( or deter!) others
Excellent work
Mike & Ann
 
OP
OP
The_Kraken
Oct 8, 2016
236
317
Herts
Funster No
45,490
MH
Auto Trail Cheyenne 696SE
Exp
Newbie
Hi Cush,

Very glad to find that my post has inspired you. It’s exactly why I did it.

locker doors opening up or downwards. Hmmm. I’m not sure it makes any difference? On my Cheyenne I have one opening upwards (the smaller locker door) and one the opens downwards (on the near side underneath our bench seat. Both were areas that water got in and I repaired both.

So, perhaps the real advantage is to have them opening downwards because at least that way you don’t need to rely on a catch to hold it open and Arkwright’s till will be retired!

it is deflating when you find some damp but, they’re pretty easy repairs in the majority.

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Mar 14, 2020
636
501
Isle of Man
Funster No
69,394
MH
Autotrail Cheyenne
Exp
Since 2015, still learning
Hi Cush,

Very glad to find that my post has inspired you. It’s exactly why I did it.

locker doors opening up or downwards. Hmmm. I’m not sure it makes any difference? On my Cheyenne I have one opening upwards (the smaller locker door) and one the opens downwards (on the near side underneath our bench seat. Both were areas that water got in and I repaired both.

So, perhaps the real advantage is to have them opening downwards because at least that way you don’t need to rely on a catch to hold it open and Arkwright’s till will be retired!

it is deflating when you find some damp but, they’re pretty easy repairs in the majority.

Thank you so much for your reply. Depressing yes but your, and other's, posts do give some confidence that it can be tackled DIY. Currently researching a decent cordless multitool and seals for the thetford #5 . First job will be to consign Arkwright's til to history with a simple 180 flip.

Initial issues appear to be around the locker but I still need to strip back the carpet and wall covering to see the true extent. Biggest concern will be that it has significantly affected the floor and along the wall past the bulkhead behind the passenger's seat. I think I may leave the structural repair till after the summer as the old Cheyenne 630 is our source of well being and we are allowed to go out in her over here on the Island and she is currently stored in an outdoor secure park.

I shan't hijack this thread any further but will try to document my progress in a fresh thread as it goes on in . Soon be time to be willing to make mistakes and learn from them.

Thanks again and take care.
 

MisterB

LIFE MEMBER
Feb 25, 2018
5,753
12,802
Essex
Funster No
52,564
MH
Adria 670 SLT
Exp
enough to know i shouldnt touch things i know nothing about ....
i have found makita to be very reliable, drills, multi tools etc are often available 'pre used' - its the batteries that seem to be the 'weak link', so invest in a couple of decent batteries and you wont go far wrong.

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Jan 29, 2017
683
557
Gloucestershire
Funster No
47,109
MH
Lunar Champ H621
Exp
15yrs
You wont go far wrong with Makita, they work well and the spares are easy to find. Stay away from DIY stores own brand as the spares support is very patchy. Probably the best and original multitool is Fein
Having said that the DIY stores and other unknown brands might just do the job for you and save you money but i wouldnt regard them in the long term. I picked up a rechargeable one from Lidl but when the battery goes that will be it but for £15.00 I couldnt resist
I remember one boatyard that insisted on using domestic tools as they were so much cheaper than professional ones and he just threw them away when they burnt out.
Mike
 
Aug 11, 2019
10
47
Not where I would rather be....
Funster No
63,168
MH
AT Cheyenne 696G SE
Exp
since 1973
Just discovered this thread as I have found very similar issues today with our 2005 Cheyenne 696G SE - I am so glad I am not the first!!! What an inspiration - thank you! Unfortunately, ours lives outside 24/7/365 and has done all its life. Same problems though - garage door leaks (both sides and they are the large ones both sides) and the small window above the upper double bed above the garage. The wallboardig here extends the full height from garage floor to ceiling above the bed - I can see I am going to have fun....

However - main reason for my posting is that, not long after we bought the van 12 years ago, I obtained a set of framing drawings from Autotrail to show where the wood framing for the sides, back and roof was behind the aluminium skin. Most useful these have been and I am sure that they would be useful to others!! Hopefully they will attach here.
 

Attachments

  • 696 BACK PANEL.pdf
    26.1 KB · Views: 85
  • 696 HL ROOF PANEL.pdf
    303.5 KB · Views: 39
  • 696 LLROOF PANEL.pdf
    301.5 KB · Views: 24
  • 696 MERC FLOOR PANEL.pdf
    28.8 KB · Views: 20
  • 696 NEARSIDE PANEL.pdf
    32.5 KB · Views: 27
  • 696 OFFSIDE PANEL.pdf
    31.7 KB · Views: 29

Riverbankannie

LIFE MEMBER
Mar 11, 2016
10,432
60,983
Bristol
Funster No
41,967
MH
IH 630 RL PVC
Exp
12
Just discovered this thread as I have found very similar issues today with our 2005 Cheyenne 696G SE - I am so glad I am not the first!!! What an inspiration - thank you! Unfortunately, ours lives outside 24/7/365 and has done all its life. Same problems though - garage door leaks (both sides and they are the large ones both sides) and the small window above the upper double bed above the garage. The wallboardig here extends the full height from garage floor to ceiling above the bed - I can see I am going to have fun....

However - main reason for my posting is that, not long after we bought the van 12 years ago, I obtained a set of framing drawings from Autotrail to show where the wood framing for the sides, back and roof was behind the aluminium skin. Most useful these have been and I am sure that they would be useful to others!! Hopefully they will attach here.
Maybe a good idea to post them in the Resources section.
 

Riverbankannie

LIFE MEMBER
Mar 11, 2016
10,432
60,983
Bristol
Funster No
41,967
MH
IH 630 RL PVC
Exp
12
Probably a good idea - when I get the map to show me around these strange parts. It has been many a year since I darkened this forum!! :)
Just your 2nd post - where have you been hiding? :smiley:
Resources can be found on the blue bar at the top of the page, you might need to scroll right.
 
Aug 11, 2019
10
47
Not where I would rather be....
Funster No
63,168
MH
AT Cheyenne 696G SE
Exp
since 1973
Just your 2nd post - where have you been hiding? :smiley:
Resources can be found on the blue bar at the top of the page, you might need to scroll right.

Was on here many moons ago - 15 years or so? - but long forgotten my log-in details.

Been enjoying the motorhoming life in all that time (and for many years before) but not really had the time to socialise much on the Forums as work and 'life' got in the way.

Our Cheyenne has served us well these past 12 years and we have racked up close to 100,000 miles in it. It is the ideal van for us and we will never change it - hence my diving back in to the Forum to see who else would be mad enough to try and repair damp issues!!!
 
Sep 19, 2018
33
30
West Wales
Funster No
56,287
MH
Just looking
A good read all this - especially as I am mid repair of some serious damp damage on our Knaus Sun traveller. So far we have replaced the step and the hab door pillar next to it, the upright sections (both sides) which link the hab sides to the cab (is there a name for these?), the floor below both, and pretty much all the wood and ceiling next to the overcab canopy. The canopy is on my lawn, having been resprayed in 2 pack, with some repairs to the rebate running around where it joins.
I'll see if I can start a new thread...
 
Sep 19, 2018
33
30
West Wales
Funster No
56,287
MH
Just looking
Quick question on here to any restorers - I'm having issues with the replacement ceiling - Knaus used ali, then polystyreen, then hardboard, with thin stips af ali sandwiched in where the cupboards were screwed up. The problem is, having removed the pollystyreen, I don't have the right thickness to replace it. Anyone know of a supplier?
 

Argar

Free Member
Sep 21, 2020
83
117
Funster No
76,147
MH
A Class
Quick question on here to any restorers - I'm having issues with the replacement ceiling - Knaus used ali, then polystyreen, then hardboard, with thin stips af ali sandwiched in where the cupboards were screwed up. The problem is, having removed the pollystyreen, I don't have the right thickness to replace it. Anyone know of a supplier?
Hiya what thickness are you looking for? Cellotex (other makes are available) might do the thickness you need!

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