Motorhome undersealing.

gwyntaxi

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hymer starline 655
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Hi Funsters,
Does anyone out there know of or can recommend a Motorhome undersealing centre in or around the Swansea area please. TIA.
 
If you're able, it's worth a go yourself. I did mine when it was new and was worth the hour or so that it took.
I used Waxoyl and brushed it on the areas that were reachable and then used a Waxoyl rattle can for the more difficult areas.
I re-did it a couple of years later. There actually isn't a great amount to do. On mine, the main chassis beams are galvanised (I did give their edges a going over).
We're off to Spain next week and I'm taking the kit to give it another going over!

Terry
 
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I think the flavour of the month of rust protection is lanoguard. I remember in the 70's and 80's thick underseal was the fashion but was later the cause of bigger problems for some people as any small cracks allowed water to be held in contact longer causing more rust unseen until it was a big problem. I had a triumph vitesse 15 years ago where a previous owner had laboriously removed a lot of the underseal the try and prevent it causing a problem.
 
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I agree that Lanoguard seems to be popular and it looks very easy to apply.

I just didn't fancy having to do it every year. Whilst I have repeated the waxoyl, I haven't really had to do it, it's been more through choice.

Terry
 
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We live 200 yds from the sea and don't really get any problems worth worrying about these days.
When you think back to how cars were it's totally different these days. I can see why it's worth treating a classic car especially after bodywork rebuilding but for vehicles built today is it worth bothering?
 
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Just a word of caution to anyone if you have an Alko chassis.... I spoke to one of the head honchos at the NEC show last year and he was adamant that you should not use any undersealing products on an ALKO chassis... he stated they are fully galvanised...do not need coating with anything and doing so may actually cause issues down the line with moisture becoming trapped underneath..
 
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Just a word of caution to anyone if you have an Alko chassis.... I spoke to one of the head honchos at the NEC show last year and he was adamant that you should not use any undersealing products on an ALKO chassis... he stated they are fully galvanised...do not need coating with anything and doing so may actually cause issues down the line with moisture becoming trapped underneath..
Also says it in the Al-Ko handbook

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I can’t advise any were in you’re area for rust proofing but I struggled to find any a garage that would take on rust proofing on a coach build but the Lanogaurd web site listed a garage in Lincolnshire amongst other places.
I have used a lot of different rust proofing products that leave a dark coloured covering. Lanogaurd is translucent finish and hard to tell were it had been applied. For my piece mind I bought a top up spray to re cover any possible missed areas.
From past experience the biggest issue before rust proofing is cleaning and drying the vehicle before applying any sort of products. I will monitor the Lanogaurd but I have since found a place near Rugby that will rust proof motorhomes so that may be an option next time.
 
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Just a word of caution to anyone if you have an Alko chassis.... I spoke to one of the head honchos at the NEC show last year and he was adamant that you should not use any undersealing products on an ALKO chassis... he stated they are fully galvanised...do not need coating with anything and doing so may actually cause issues down the line with moisture becoming trapped underneath..
I use Lanoguard in an attempt to keep my old Toyota Hilux from turning to dust (it's a labour of love for what is supposed to be one of the most indestructible vehicles built - Except for the chassis rust part lol).

Given that and therefore speaking with Lanoguard frequently, I asked them about our Swift Kon-Tiki and they also said that categorically you should never apply it to anything galvanised as it can cause havoc with the original anti-rust chemical treatment that the metal went through and would make things worse.

No harm in applying their "moto-grease" to the various steel nuts and bolts on the underside though, plus in some instances there are steel components that are bolted to the chassis, such as the travelling seatbelt support in my case.
 
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I use Lanoguard on MH and cars. It's very easy to apply, particularly to a new vehicle, and to re-apply when need be - I find it far easier to use than Waxoyl. It 'creeps' to fill small areas and that property enables it to recoat any small area where it may have been lost - eg stone chip damage. I can crawl underneath our McLouis 373 when on chocks at front and rear air raised - so other than getting slightly covered myself it is no trouble to use. I wear old clothing fit for the bin and dispose of them when I'm finished. It takes a few days for it to 'cure' during which your vehicle will smell like a sheep pen - it is Lanoline after all :)
 
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Thorough cleaning and then removing old surface rust, and old under seal is the hard bit. I have access to a steam cleaner, but no lift or suitable ramps, so it's not easy to do a good job. Applying lanoguard, or any other product is pretty straightforward, is just the the prep must good or it's a waste of time and money. It's worth paying someone with the right kit and experience, but there's lots of people out there who say they'll do it properly, but you really need to get evidence the they do....

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I have Lanoguard to do my van with and I remember reading on the Lanoguard FB page that it should not be used on any wooden substrate on the floor as it can trap moisture and worsen things. The last time I read anything on this they are looking into something to sort this.
 
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Hi Funsters,
Does anyone out there know of or can recommend a Motorhome undersealing centre in or around the Swansea area please. TIA.
Hi Gwyn,
"Blwyddyn Newydd Dda"
Yes, Ray Thomas MOT centre 2 miles from Pont Abraham does a Wax oil undersealing service
If you are keen just 1/2 mile from Ray Thomas, is Capel Hendre Industrial estate,
and there is a commercial unit there with an outdoor lorry pit,
which you can hire for a £10, and use their pressure washer to clean under the van yourself.
then leave at the MOT centre for a day or so to dry off, and have Karl underseal it for you.
If you need any phone numbers give me a call
 
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If you're able, it's worth a go yourself. I did mine when it was new and was worth the hour or so that it took.
I used Waxoyl and brushed it on the areas that were reachable and then used a Waxoyl rattle can for the more difficult areas.
I re-did it a couple of years later. There actually isn't a great amount to do. On mine, the main chassis beams are galvanised (I did give their edges a going over).
We're off to Spain next week and I'm taking the kit to give it another going over!

Terry
Thanks for your response, i am not able to do it myself unfortunately and my vehicle is 2005.
 
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I can’t advise any were in you’re area for rust proofing but I struggled to find any a garage that would take on rust proofing on a coach build but the Lanogaurd web site listed a garage in Lincolnshire amongst other places.
I have used a lot of different rust proofing products that leave a dark coloured covering. Lanogaurd is translucent finish and hard to tell were it had been applied. For my piece mind I bought a top up spray to re cover any possible missed areas.
From past experience the biggest issue before rust proofing is cleaning and drying the vehicle before applying any sort of products. I will monitor the Lanogaurd but I have since found a place near Rugby that will rust proof motorhomes so that may be an option next time.
Thanks for your response, but I didn’t want to travel that far to get it done.
 
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Hi Gwyn,
"Blwyddyn Newydd Dda"
Yes, Ray Thomas MOT centre 2 miles from Pont Abraham does a Wax oil undersealing service
If you are keen just 1/2 mile from Ray Thomas, is Capel Hendre Industrial estate,
and there is a commercial unit there with an outdoor lorry pit,
which you can hire for a £10, and use their pressure washer to clean under the van yourself.
then leave at the MOT centre for a day or so to dry off, and have Karl underseal it for you.
If you need any phone numbers give me a call
Many thanks for your reply, seems the best plan yet, will think,on it, do you know if he cleans the chassis off first, I had it waxoyled about 8 years ago but they didnt do a very good job and now it needs redoing to be honest.

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I have Lanoguard to do my van with and I remember reading on the Lanoguard FB page that it should not be used on any wooden substrate on the floor as it can trap moisture and worsen things. The last time I read anything on this they are looking into something to sort this.
I don't see how they could. In order to stop rust you have to stop water and oxygen reaching the metal. Making a watertight seal on the underside of a wooden floor would prevent any drying out of moisture presumably it's the reason they don't recommend it on alko chassis as the galvanised layer effectively acts as a sacrificial anode and sealing would stop that happening.
 
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Lanoguard is that good they recommend going it every year, that doesn’t make sense to me

A good breathable pure linseed oil paint would be a good choice, after preparation of course.
 
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Lanoguard is that good they recommend going it every year, that doesn’t make sense to me

A good breathable pure linseed oil paint would be a good choice, after preparation of course.
I think on wooden floors the ideal would probably be a breathable timber preservative and removing any mud behind the wheel arches frequently. On metal I think the lanoguard is probably pretty good from what I've heard probably a lot better than the old underseal that trapped moisture against the metal once it had any holes.
 
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I think on wooden floors the ideal would probably be a breathable timber preservative and removing any mud behind the wheel arches frequently. On metal I think the lanoguard is probably pretty good from what I've heard probably a lot better than the old underseal that trapped moisture against the metal once it had any holes.
But pure linseed oil paint is totally breathable on all surfaces including metal, I’ve had excellent results with it on timber and metal, if Lanoguard is not a breathable product on timber as someone has written on here then why would it be better on metal?

I’m dubious about lanoguard, spray grease would be better even?

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But pure linseed oil paint is totally breathable on all surfaces including metal, I’ve had excellent results with it on timber and metal, if Lanoguard is not a breathable product on timber as someone has written on here then why would it be better on metal?

I’m dubious about lanoguard, spray grease would be better even?
I think on metal you don't want anything that's breathable as you want to cut out oxygen. On timber you do want it to be breathable. I don't think there's anything that could do both really well
 
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I think on metal you don't want anything that's breathable as you want to cut out oxygen. On timber you do want it to be breathable. I don't think there's anything that could do both really well
I’ve just named one? You want some thing that doesn’t sit onto the surface but penetrates into it.
 
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I think on wooden floors the ideal would probably be a breathable timber preservative and removing any mud behind the wheel arches frequently. On metal I think the lanoguard is probably pretty good from what I've heard probably a lot better than the old underseal that trapped moisture against the metal once it had any holes.
I'm lucky - new McLouis are wood free construction.
 
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I use lithium grease in aerosol cans on anything rustable underneath, the scooter rack hasn't rusted or needed redoing in 10 years. 👍
 
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