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When you think back to how cars were it's totally different these days. I can see why it's worth treating a classic car especially after bodywork rebuilding but for vehicles built today is it worth bothering?We live 200 yds from the sea and don't really get any problems worth worrying about these days.
Also says it in the Al-Ko handbookJust a word of caution to anyone if you have an Alko chassis.... I spoke to one of the head honchos at the NEC show last year and he was adamant that you should not use any undersealing products on an ALKO chassis... he stated they are fully galvanised...do not need coating with anything and doing so may actually cause issues down the line with moisture becoming trapped underneath..
I use Lanoguard in an attempt to keep my old Toyota Hilux from turning to dust (it's a labour of love for what is supposed to be one of the most indestructible vehicles built - Except for the chassis rust part lol).Just a word of caution to anyone if you have an Alko chassis.... I spoke to one of the head honchos at the NEC show last year and he was adamant that you should not use any undersealing products on an ALKO chassis... he stated they are fully galvanised...do not need coating with anything and doing so may actually cause issues down the line with moisture becoming trapped underneath..
Hi Gwyn,Hi Funsters,
Does anyone out there know of or can recommend a Motorhome undersealing centre in or around the Swansea area please. TIA.
Thanks for your response, i am not able to do it myself unfortunately and my vehicle is 2005.If you're able, it's worth a go yourself. I did mine when it was new and was worth the hour or so that it took.
I used Waxoyl and brushed it on the areas that were reachable and then used a Waxoyl rattle can for the more difficult areas.
I re-did it a couple of years later. There actually isn't a great amount to do. On mine, the main chassis beams are galvanised (I did give their edges a going over).
We're off to Spain next week and I'm taking the kit to give it another going over!
Terry
Thanks for your response, but I didn’t want to travel that far to get it done.I can’t advise any were in you’re area for rust proofing but I struggled to find any a garage that would take on rust proofing on a coach build but the Lanogaurd web site listed a garage in Lincolnshire amongst other places.
I have used a lot of different rust proofing products that leave a dark coloured covering. Lanogaurd is translucent finish and hard to tell were it had been applied. For my piece mind I bought a top up spray to re cover any possible missed areas.
From past experience the biggest issue before rust proofing is cleaning and drying the vehicle before applying any sort of products. I will monitor the Lanogaurd but I have since found a place near Rugby that will rust proof motorhomes so that may be an option next time.
Many thanks for your reply, seems the best plan yet, will think,on it, do you know if he cleans the chassis off first, I had it waxoyled about 8 years ago but they didnt do a very good job and now it needs redoing to be honest.Hi Gwyn,
"Blwyddyn Newydd Dda"
Yes, Ray Thomas MOT centre 2 miles from Pont Abraham does a Wax oil undersealing service
If you are keen just 1/2 mile from Ray Thomas, is Capel Hendre Industrial estate,
and there is a commercial unit there with an outdoor lorry pit,
which you can hire for a £10, and use their pressure washer to clean under the van yourself.
then leave at the MOT centre for a day or so to dry off, and have Karl underseal it for you.
If you need any phone numbers give me a call
I don't see how they could. In order to stop rust you have to stop water and oxygen reaching the metal. Making a watertight seal on the underside of a wooden floor would prevent any drying out of moisture presumably it's the reason they don't recommend it on alko chassis as the galvanised layer effectively acts as a sacrificial anode and sealing would stop that happening.I have Lanoguard to do my van with and I remember reading on the Lanoguard FB page that it should not be used on any wooden substrate on the floor as it can trap moisture and worsen things. The last time I read anything on this they are looking into something to sort this.
I think on wooden floors the ideal would probably be a breathable timber preservative and removing any mud behind the wheel arches frequently. On metal I think the lanoguard is probably pretty good from what I've heard probably a lot better than the old underseal that trapped moisture against the metal once it had any holes.Lanoguard is that good they recommend going it every year, that doesn’t make sense to me
A good breathable pure linseed oil paint would be a good choice, after preparation of course.
But pure linseed oil paint is totally breathable on all surfaces including metal, I’ve had excellent results with it on timber and metal, if Lanoguard is not a breathable product on timber as someone has written on here then why would it be better on metal?I think on wooden floors the ideal would probably be a breathable timber preservative and removing any mud behind the wheel arches frequently. On metal I think the lanoguard is probably pretty good from what I've heard probably a lot better than the old underseal that trapped moisture against the metal once it had any holes.
I think on metal you don't want anything that's breathable as you want to cut out oxygen. On timber you do want it to be breathable. I don't think there's anything that could do both really wellBut pure linseed oil paint is totally breathable on all surfaces including metal, I’ve had excellent results with it on timber and metal, if Lanoguard is not a breathable product on timber as someone has written on here then why would it be better on metal?
I’m dubious about lanoguard, spray grease would be better even?
I’ve just named one? You want some thing that doesn’t sit onto the surface but penetrates into it.I think on metal you don't want anything that's breathable as you want to cut out oxygen. On timber you do want it to be breathable. I don't think there's anything that could do both really well
I'm lucky - new McLouis are wood free construction.I think on wooden floors the ideal would probably be a breathable timber preservative and removing any mud behind the wheel arches frequently. On metal I think the lanoguard is probably pretty good from what I've heard probably a lot better than the old underseal that trapped moisture against the metal once it had any holes.