MOT Faff!

[paulmj]

Sorry for the new thread, but the previous one I had started ref the HR's MOT has gone...... Bloody hackers.

Anyway, you may recall that I booked the MOT on line with Reliance in Hayes. I just thought I'd give them a call to check before heading down there on Tues........ Hmm. Despite the fact that the site says they can take pretty much anything they can't take anything that won't fit on a 15' ramp. How annoyed was I....

However, he did suggest that I speak to their other branch in Slough:

Reliance Auto Test
Unit 14, Slough Interchange, Whittenham Close, Slough, SL2 5EP
Tel: 01753 575801

These guys have a pit, were very helpful and said they could take pretty much anything, oh and they can do it tomorrow if I want! Spot on. I've still got it booked in for 2 Jul, so I'll let you know how it goes...... Then it'll be off to the auto electrician etc....

Here's hoping!



PMJ

 

[Geo]

CHECKED HEIGHT TOO ?:thumb:

 

[paulmj]

Yeah, he does coaches, pcvs etc - ie really tall stuff.

 

[Brisey]

Hi Paul

Sorry to hear about your problems with the MOT station, when I checked the place out their doors were shut and I couldn't see inside their unit.
You will have no such problems at <<Hillingdon Vehicle Specialists>> I have seen several ARV's under going test there.
When having my van tested a few weeks ago I arranged to arrive at 8:30 am and for the test to be carried out while I waited. Was back on my way home with a new MOT certificate by 9:30 cost of test was £40.
Brian

 

[paulmj]

Yeah - if this one goes south, that'll be where I'll take it. I just needed to get booked up on the spot as the only day I can get away from the office in the next month is 2 Jul!

Proud to serve, and all that......

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[paulmj]

Well you are going to love this!

Turned up at Reliance Auto and was told to get the RV in the workshop ready for the MOT. Dead chuffed and impressed as I was early but they were happy to crack on. Wiggled the RV in (the usual array of comedy AA drop off etc on the road outside) and just as I put it in front of the rollers, as instructed, out comes the MOT tester to tell me he can't do it today. They had a vehicle stuck over the pit. Tells me he had called to let me know and left a message (he had, half an hour before the test and it is an hour trip).

You can imagine how chuffed I was having driven down to Slough on the only day of leave I can get in for the next month to find that the trip was a waste of time. Not to mention the cost in fuel etc....

So I've just got back and called Hillingdon Vehicle Specialists who said "no problem, bring it over at 3pm". Now that is what I call service. Nice one Brisey!

Fingers crossed for 3pm, then.......

 

[Brisey]

Hi Paul

Hope it all goes well for you this afternoon at H.V.S. If I am in the area this afternoon I will come over and say hello.
Regards
Brisey

 

[paulmj]

Well the good news is it passed! Not even an advisory. Many thanks again for the tip Brisey. Sounds like I owe you a beer!

The bad news is the bloody alternator still. Despite the fact that I have put a switch in line with the field coil, ie between the warning light and the alternator, when it gets warm I can't switch it off and it is back to its old over charging trick again. The switch works fine when warming up but when it gets fairly warm, such as after sitting in traffic, the switch does nothing. I can't turn it off. So that has to be a short in the alternator...... right? As that swich should kill the alternator no matter what, right? I think it must be an internal short between the voltage sensing connection and the warning light connection so that the field is always on, when things get warm....... Any thoughts welcome...... :Sad:

I also really must change the brake fluid as when the brakes get hot, or when the resevoir gets hot in traffic (as it is about 2" from the exhaust!), the brakes get very (very!) spongey. I think I'll bung some racing brake fluid in as it has a very high boiling point. However, are there any special requirements for RV brake fluid?

Many thanks!

Cheers.

Paul

 

[Brisey]

Hi Paul

Glad it all went well for you at H.V.S. its a nice feeling when the guy says "I cant find anything wrong with it"
I drove past and saw your RV lined up ready to go in at about 3o'clock, a nice looking vehicle. Couldnt stop to say hello unfortunately.:Sad:
Hope you get your alternator problem sorted soon.

Brisey

 

[Wilbury]

Well the good news is it passed! Not even an advisory. Many thanks again for the tip Brisey. Sounds like I owe you a beer!

The bad news is the bloody alternator still. Despite the fact that I have put a switch in line with the field coil, ie between the warning light and the alternator, when it gets warm I can't switch it off and it is back to its old over charging trick again. The switch works fine when warming up but when it gets fairly warm, such as after sitting in traffic, the switch does nothing. I can't turn it off. So that has to be a short in the alternator...... right? As that swich should kill the alternator no matter what, right? I think it must be an internal short between the voltage sensing connection and the warning light connection so that the field is always on, when things get warm....... Any thoughts welcome...... :Sad:

I also really must change the brake fluid as when the brakes get hot, or when the resevoir gets hot in traffic (as it is about 2" from the exhaust!), the brakes get very (very!) spongey. I think I'll bung some racing brake fluid in as it has a very high boiling point. However, are there any special requirements for RV brake fluid?

Many thanks!

Cheers.

Paul

Hi Paul,
DO NOT USE RACING FLUID, it degrades rapidly and has a very short service life.
DO NOT USE A SILICON BASED FLUID, It will cause all of the seals to fail unless the whole system was designed to use it.
Ensure that you use only the type stipulated by the manufacturer.
Wilbury

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[paulmj]

Hi,

Thanks for that. Unfortunately I have no idea what the manufacturer recommends..... oh: By racing fluid, I don't mean silicone fluid. I have had many problems with silicone fluid in the past and I keep well clear of it. It seems to pick up moisture at an alarming rate of knots.

By racing fluid I mean the stuff that is still dot rated (and road suitable etc) but has very high wet and dry boiling points - not the funny stuff you find in GT cars and high end single seaters. This is the kind of stuff I use in the race cars these days and have used it in one of my road cars in the past. It is great stuff and is very difficult to boil - just what I need. The only down side is that it is about twice the price of normal fluid.

I also need to waxoil the underneath - not looking forward to that.......



Cheers.

Paul

 

[pappajohn]

I also really must change the brake fluid as when the brakes get hot, or when the resevoir gets hot in traffic (as it is about 2" from the exhaust!), the brakes get very (very!) spongey. I think I'll bung some racing brake fluid in as it has a very high boiling point. However, are there any special requirements for RV brake fluid?

Many thanks!

Cheers.

Paul

would it be possible to retro-fit an aluminium heat shield like the ones fitted to some older car exhaust manifolds.

 

[Thepips]

I also really must change the brake fluid as when the brakes get hot, or when the resevoir gets hot in traffic (as it is about 2" from the exhaust!), the brakes get very (very!) spongey. I think I'll bung some racing brake fluid in as it has a very high boiling point. However, are there any special requirements for RV brake fluid?

Many thanks!

Cheers.

Paul

Hi Paul,
I don't believe a 2" air gap between the exhaust and reservoir would cause the fluid to boil. Certainly not as much as using the brakes! However, brake fluid is hygroscopic absorbing moisture which lowers the boiling point substantially. From your earlier post that moisture contaminated fluid sounds a much more likely explanation. Changing the brake fluid, particularly if you don't when it was last changed, is a very sensible move. I'd go along with Wilbury, use the fluid recommended by the chassis manufacturer. Just post what you've got and someone is bound to have the appropriate manual to hand

Regards
Doug