Morocco 2013 (1 Viewer)

makems

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While at Agdz last week we toured the Kasbah with the owner Aziz. What an interesting tour as the Kasbah belongs to his family and has done for generations so his stories really bring things to life.
If anybody stays at the site in Agdz it's worth going on the tour. This is No 119 in the Vicarious Guide (Note: It comes AFTER No 120 in the book!)
Aziz's grandfather was Caid (tribal leader) who remained loyal to King Mohammed V in the 40s/50s when he was exiled after Thami El Glaoui or Lord of the Atlas, (Pasha of Marrakech) conspired with the French.
Despite being jailed twice the Caid stayed true to the King who returned tot eh country in 1955 when the French realised they had cocked up the whole country. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thami_El_Glaoui#Dethronement if you're interested in the history)
However the grandfather died before putting in writing who was to succeed him as Caid so there was no following Caid.
The Kasbah fell into serious ruin and large parts of it remain so. Aziz has restored some important parts taking many years to do so with the help of a German chap who has organised annual work parties to carry out the important structural work. Most of the current work is to complete the interior decoration.
1. A view from the "garden" where the motorhomes are parked
2. A photo of a photo of the Riad before restoration. The Riad is the recption courtyard where the Caid would grant audience and receive guests.
3. The Riad now.
4. The Riad from above. There are rooms all around the perimeter which Aziz rents out.
5. A view of the rear of the, Kasbah. This is 4 separate photos stitched together to give an idea of the scale of the place. In the centre is a part that has been restored by one of Aziz's cousins using modern materials (Aziz only uses traditional materials and techniques on his own part of the Kasbah). Thje the right you can see parts that are still in complete ruin.
 

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makems

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The windows from the private rooms are "Ladies windows" designed so women could see what was going on outside or in the Riad without being seen themselves.
 

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makems

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As they are decorating the inside they are using photographs of the original interiors and trying to recreate them.
They aren't using paints as we know them - they are going out into the hills and finding rocks of the right colour, grinding them up and making them into paint naturally. They have researched what minerals produce which colours. The results can be stunning:

  1. This was at waist height around a room. All painted freehand of course.
  2. A frieze around the top of walls.
  3. The purplish colour is a very high gloss achieved by rubbing the stome pillar with a smoothing stone until perfectly smooth and then applying a pigment mixed with olive oil. The surface repels water but allows any moisture in the stone to escape. JUst like high-tech paints!. It is the traditional (ie centuries old) methid of sealing stone walls in the hammam bath house.
  4. The door from the courtyard into the kitchen.
  5. Decoration around a "Ladies window"

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makems

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The Caid's quarters were at the very top of one of the towers accessed by very narrow spiral staircase. For security reasons.

  1. The Caid's dayroom
  2. The passage outside the Caid's rooms which would be guarded.
  3. The ceiling in the dayroom
  4. The Caid's rooms are accessed from a roof terrace. This would be used in summer for sleeping when it got too hot inside. The two covered tiled ares would be used if it rained or for privacy. Being at right angles to each other the occupants (and what they might be getting up to) could not be seen by occupants of the other area.
 

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makems

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Snapped on the road down to M'Hamid:
I reckon a good Moroccan mechanic would have that back on the road in a day or so
 

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Malcolm Bolt

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Agdz to Zagora

I have been unable to connect via INWI over the last few days and have chuntered quite a lot having to use Cathryn's ipad. Tonight Cathryn pressed the right buttons for me :Eeek: and hey presto I am proper back on line.

It had rained heavily overnight before we left Agdz. Although we had moved to stoney ground the day before I still awoke to find myself in a pond, albeit only a couple of inches deep. I gingerly moved the van a few yards while still connected to EHU to avoid getting shoes wet, then disconnected. Speaking with Manfred who leads the restoration work on the Kasbah I made tentative arrangements to return next year to help out. (as long as it does not prevent attendance at Spain 2014).

We then headed off on the short run to Zagora. We crossed the wide fast flowing river to the south of the town where the day before it had been bone dry. A few miles further on we had to slow down for what I initially thought were road works. In fact the overnight rain had caused a rock slide and there was a huge lump of the stuff in the middle of our lane. We drove round it and I stopped to take a photograph. It wasn't until I was walking back to the van that I noticed where I had parked and that there was another great lump perched precariously on the slope above the van with Cathryn still inside. I ran back - only stopping momentarily to take another picture. :Doh:

It was amazing to see not only the volume of water in the river but how irrigation channels were used to make sure the water is delivered to where it is needed most. Land in the palmeries is divided up into very small plots with shallow mud walls. The water is directed from one plot to the next simply by breaking a gap in the shallow wall then filling it up again to send the water to another section. I was reminded about what Aziz at Agdz had told us about the drought in the eighties. Rain had been scarce for several years and then there had been none at all for a few more. The population was decimated with many moving away to the large towns and cities to seek work and others moving abroad. The lack of rain also had an adverse effect on the buildings in the whole Draa valley. The traditional mud brick with mud and straw plaster had cracked in the dry weather and with few people on hand they had not been repaired. When the rain did come the structures were so week they just collapsed. Many are now in ruins. Not only the Kasbahs (large houses with only one family living in them but also the Ksars. These are old walled villages with high density houses built together and often appearing to be a single building. Think of tenements/apartment blocks laid flat and made out of mud.

Pic 1 That's a big lump

Pic 2 Should I really have left Cathryn there?

Pic 3 What a place to park up

Pic 4 River that was not there yesterday

Pic 5 Irrigation don't waste a drop

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bryandh

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We are at Ait Benhaddou in the Atlas mountains. The tops are all covered in snow.
The van's rocking here too Suggy.
(It's blowing a bloody gale!) :ROFLMAO:
Been good for drying Gwen's knickers - although I've had to run halfway back to Ouarzazate to find them after they blew off the line :Eeek:
Looks like we'll be tail-end Charlies as we're planning to stay for at least another couple of weeks yet.



Been there, done it !!! Don't forget that Gordon (Gaudie) is still around somewhere, last heard of in Sidi Ifni...... keep an eye out for him, maybe he has gone native :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Regards, Bryan
 
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tonka

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Just to keep you all grounded and to know what to expect..
This was yesterday !!!! In France... :Eeek:

.


lol... It was the top of the Pyrennese.. ! Next time I will use another route... Almost home folks.
Currently at Rouen for more McDonalds coffee and free wifi..
 
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Malcolm Bolt

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The windows from the private rooms are "Ladies windows" designed so women could see what was going on outside or in the Riad without being seen themselves.



Oops I might be in trouble for that last one :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
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MickyP

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Drive away awnings

A quick question for the funsters who have and are touring Morocco is there any point in taking a drive away awning? or is the space more useful for other objects/equipment etc? I don't see any in the photos?
Mick

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makems

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A quick question for the funsters who have and are touring Morocco is there any point in taking a drive away awning? or is the space more useful for other objects/equipment etc? I don't see any in the photos?
Mick

No point at all in my opinion. (but it's only an opinion!)
In the nearly 3 months we have been here we have:

  1. Been on crowded places with no room for an awning
  2. Been on the move so pointless putting up an awning
  3. Stayed for a few days with space but the weather is so good why would you want an awning? We only use the roll out awning when it's so bloody hot we need a bit of shade.
  4. been wild camping so couldn't put up an awning anyway.
The vast majority of the MH fraternity here are French. If you drove away leaving your awning you'd find a froggy van parked next to it and using it.:ROFLMAO:

This is a BIG country so you don;t tend to park up and then go out on days out returning to your site at the end of the day. You take your home with you and move lock stock and barrel to the next place on your itinerary.

WE have an awning (not drive-away) but didn't bother bringing it and glad we didn't - the space and weight would have been a complete waste as there hasn't been a single day when I wished we had it.

HTH
Mike
 

bryandh

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It had rained heavily overnight before we left Agdz. Although we had moved to stoney ground the day before I still awoke to find myself in a pond, albeit only a couple of inches deep. I gingerly moved the van a few yards while still connected to EHU to avoid getting shoes wet, then disconnected. Speaking with Manfred who leads the restoration work on the Kasbah I made tentative arrangements to return next year to help out. (as long as it does not prevent attendance at Spain 2014).

Malcolm, hypothetically....... what would you expect to be doing ? When might you plan to do it ? Sounds intriguing.


Regards, Bryan & Anna

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Malcolm Bolt

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A quick question for the funsters who have and are touring Morocco is there any point in taking a drive away awning? or is the space more useful for other objects/equipment etc? I don't see any in the photos?
Mick


I would not bother to bring one. It really depends on how you will organise your visit here. I saw many people on campsites such as Atlantica Park who had set up in one place for a three month stay but I think most of them had been coming for a few years and having done the touring bit were now content to just park up in the sun. Some had full awnings, separate kitchen tents, tables and chairs sufficient to entertain half a dozen guests and of course as they couldn't pack all that lot away each time some had a toad as well. If you are thinking of spending a week or so at several stops then you might get some benefit from a drive away. For a first visit I wanted to move about to see different places.
 

Malcolm Bolt

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It had rained heavily overnight before we left Agdz. Although we had moved to stoney ground the day before I still awoke to find myself in a pond, albeit only a couple of inches deep. I gingerly moved the van a few yards while still connected to EHU to avoid getting shoes wet, then disconnected. Speaking with Manfred who leads the restoration work on the Kasbah I made tentative arrangements to return next year to help out. (as long as it does not prevent attendance at Spain 2014).

Malcolm, hypothetically....... what would you expect to be doing ? When might you plan to do it ? Sounds intriguing.

Regards, Bryan & Anna

I really don't know but I saw the youngsters here using shovels and barrows so I recon I could do that. In past years they have made bricks, mixed paint and polished plaster. It will depend on what Manfred decides is next years project I suppose. I am thinking of being at Agdz during the first fortnight in March. :Smile:

All the best
Malcolm & Cathryn

Today we got to Moulay Bousselham and are ready for the ferry back. The site has hard standing and the internet speed is really good so I was hoping to do a bit of catch up on posts. Just finished tea, read all about the weather funsters are having to deal with in UK and we have a total electricity blackout of the site and the village. Laptop will be out of power soon. Also it is raining here and blowing a gale just like when we first arrived. I see the weather in Spain is due to improve by the weekend. If that forecast changes tomorrow I will be tempted to turn south again. :Sad:
 

Malcolm Bolt

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WE headed off South to M'Hamid at the edge of the Sahara. We were sad to say goodbye to the Bolts as we have had a whale of a time with them for the last couple of weeks. Smashing couple.

We were sorry to see you both go. We had a great time together. It was good that we were able to have that meal before we parted company.

I've just realised that my accounts of things are appearing a bit late and it must seem as if we were a week behind you but I am trying to catch up a bit before we get the ferry.

So here goes with catch up.

We only spent one night in Zagora. When Mike told us about their fight with the mud we found our way to Camping Sindibad and when Gwen and Mike arrived we all went for a walk into town. It was very windy so we looked around the market and called in for chicken and chips on the way back.

We both went our separate ways in the morning. Us heading back north to Ouarzazate and them south to the desert. (Not sure if they favoured camels or a 4x4. ::bigsmile:::bigsmile:)

I was advised that they hang the beef this way to show it came from a healthy steer and not and old milk cow :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:.

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makems

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Laptop will be out of power soon. Also it is raining here and blowing a gale just like when we first arrived. I see the weather in Spain is due to improve by the weekend. If that forecast changes tomorrow I will be tempted to turn south again. :Sad:

No excuse for a flat laptop battery Malcolm:

You've got a bloody inverter now!
:Doh::Doh::Doh:
 

makems

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I'm going through the photos from our desert 4x4 trip and came across this one.
I think he's saying "I was in Lawrence of Arabia don't you know"

Any other suggestions?
 

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Malcolm Bolt

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Camping-car Marroc

Power restored :thumb:

Having left Zagora we travelled north to Ouarzazate where we stayed at the Municipal Site which has hard standing. Other than that the only thing to it's credit is that it is close to the centre of town. I wanted to go and see the locations used for the filming of 'Salmon Fishing In The Yemen' but could not find anyone on the site who knew what I was talking about and had never heard of Ewan McGregor
(not sure of spelling). So as we did not wish to waste time at this stage we moved on towards Marrakech.
The High Atlas Mountains were wonderful to drive through and I can not do justice to them with words and the photos we took do not come close to a true representation. Neither could capture the true scale.

In Marrakech things were amazing but as they were close up I feel the pics do convey a sense of feeling so I will post some later.

We stayed at the Camping-Car Morroc site. We knew it was going to be more expensive than anywhere else we had stayed in Morocco but it was still less than the ACSI sites we have used in Spain and much better than the majority. Yes better than many European sites. In any case after seven weeks of free and cheap sites we felt three nights of paradise wouldn't break the bank.

There are still more developments ongoing including a small indoor pool but we were happy with what is available now. The individual pitches are spacious and on hard standing. A footpath leads to a shady walkway linking each pitch with the smart facilities. Showers deliver hot water by both hand held and overhead fittings. The pool is large and there are sunbathing lawns (yes real grass) and beds. There is a variety of beers and wine available at the bar and the restaurant menu looks good too. The little things really do make a difference, like the hot croissants and baguettes delivered hot to your van door every morning. We spent three nights here before moving in to the centre of town for our final night in Marrakech


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZQNKsMIAwY&feature=youtu.be


 
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Malcolm Bolt

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Marrakech pics 1

1. The railway station

2. Not a palm tree but a mobile phone mast

3. Koutoubia Mosque

4. Funster van in front of Mosque (we stayed here for our last night in Marrakesh. Met Adie, his wife and kids here again)

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Malcolm Bolt

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Marrakech pics 2

People who don't have a motorhome have to stay in places like these ugh :ROFLMAO:
 

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Malcolm Bolt

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Marrakech pics 3

1. Bike repair shop

2. Metal lamp shades

3. Street at entrance to one of the souks

4. Anything black made from recycled inner tubes and tyres. There was even strange clothing including masks and a basque like the one Madonna had with the ice-cream cones at the front

5. Entrance to a Riad (hotel) in the centre of the old town
 

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Malcolm Bolt

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Marrakech pics 4

About town at night

1. All that glitters

2. Bags of stuff

3. Still selling oranges

4. Not more bloody night lights - (Cathryn must have been to IKIA again)

5. We could eat there. We did.

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Malcolm Bolt

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kaybee

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I am really going to miss this thread (as will others) when you are all home again. Its been so entertaining and informative. Can't wait to give it a go if I can pluck up the courage by next year. Keep the photos and the stories coming if you are still out there. ::bigsmile:

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