Metal fixing advice reqd. (1 Viewer)

mike mcglynn

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Hello All , I need to fix a large truck size kerb mirror to my van don't ask why :eek: and want to know what is the best fixing, the mirror is supplied with a bracket to fit the Mercedes Truck door ,but I don't have a door as its an Arto and only has the hab door, so I have planned to fit an aluminium strip to affix said mirror to so what is the best fixing mode, I was thinking of a hollow wall type of fixing with screw to tighten up
as van is ally with foam sandwich But would welcome advice from any knowledgeable funster Thanks Mike.:)
 
Jun 30, 2010
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Fixed similar sort of thing to our first A-Class, a Pilot.
I used a 2mm steel plate on the inside of the vehicle as a back plate/support.
 
May 12, 2011
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I think the hollow wall type fixing you are looking at is a 'Jack nut', normally available with internal threads of 4, 5 or 6mm. Other option is a versanut if you need to go to 8mm. The look alike products are not worth the risk, you can't see if they have set properly, jack nut is emhart, versanut is avdel.

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Last edited:
Aug 6, 2013
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I wouldn't fit it to the outer skin. Any serious contact will tear out the fixings rather than pivot the mirror. A neatly shaped stainless plate inside the van and stainless fasteners is how I would do it. (As @rangitira suggested).
 

hilldweller

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I wouldn't fit it to the outer skin. Any serious contact will tear out the fixings rather than pivot the mirror.

It's even worse I'd say, yes with a backing plate inside it might not get pulled out but there is a good chance it would pivot and crush the feeble outer skin.

This is not a trivial exercise.

Off the top of my head I'd be thinking in terms of hacking a big hole inside, inserting a good sized hardwood filler block and close the cavity again with a plate that can pick up some real strength like the wooden frame assuming it has one.
 

funflair

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Ours came with a flat backed bracket that just went straight onto the sidewall just above the window frame a bit of Sikoflex and two big self tappers = sorted.

Martin

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Aug 6, 2013
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Ours came with a flat backed bracket that just went straight onto the sidewall just above the window frame a bit of Sikoflex and two big self tappers = sorted.

Martin
You'll find those self-tapper go into an insert in the wall - otherwise there'd be no point in them being more than 1/4" long.
 
Aug 6, 2013
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It's even worse I'd say, yes with a backing plate inside it might not get pulled out but there is a good chance it would pivot and crush the feeble outer skin.

This is not a trivial exercise.

Off the top of my head I'd be thinking in terms of hacking a big hole inside, inserting a good sized hardwood filler block and close the cavity again with a plate that can pick up some real strength like the wooden frame assuming it has one.
Most wind-out awnings are attached as I suggested. You're right though and spacers between the inner plate and outer skin are an alternative that would help considerably.
 

funflair

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You'll find those self-tapper go into an insert in the wall - otherwise there'd be no point in them being more than 1/4" long.
If there is an insert I was B lucky to hit it as I just put them where I fancied:D

Which is another way of saying I fixed it on with self tappers and Sikaflex, yes the self tappers are about 10mm.

Martin

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TheBig1

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you can buy a fixing as used on fiamma awnings and bike racks, which has an inner aluminium plate and cover and stainless bolts. make it look like it was meant to be there
 

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