Long term solution to surface rust bubbling up on underside. (1 Viewer)

[TobyQuest]

My import van from Japan has been in Europe a year now and driving through a salty river in portugal didnt help matters, lol but ive got surface rust now bubbling up all over the place.

Its in hundreds and hundreds of places in a very light way and in dozens of places in a slightly bigger way, but nowhere in a big way.
Although I know nothing about sealing, Ive heard of Waxoyl, Dinitrol, Lanolin and people using other alternatives.

What do you recommend for a 27 year old vehicle that I want to keep for 10 years?
Is this the process I need to do?:
Sand back rusty areas with sandpaper, wire brushes, and a stone-type head drill bit using it like a Dremmel
Then paint it with primer or some kind of paint? Is this necessary?
Then with a brush, put the waxoyl or whatever onto it

Doing it professionally would cost me about £850 and if I can do it myself in 10-20 hours work, i'd rather do that.

 

[Richard n Ann]

Whatever product you paint on an old vehicle will peel off with rust behind it in a couple of years, seen it many times. The best thing is spray grease or oil. It never sets, just goes dirty and lasts years. I've sprayed this on our scooter rack and it's still working great at 5 years.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=114271433054

 

[TobyQuest]

I like the pro's of it but the big con would be any time you touch the underside, or need to work on it etc you'll be caked in oil/grease right? And once its on, if you later regretted that fact, youre stuck with it?

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[pappajohn]

I like the pro's of it but the big con would be any time you touch the underside, or need to work on it etc you'll be caked in oil/grease right? And once its on, if you later regretted that fact, youre stuck with it?

So back to plan 1 then, maybe every year or two if your lucky.
In my experience there's only one cure for tinworm..... Cut it out. Once it's in its there for good.

 

[Richard n Ann]

I like the pro's of it but the big con would be any time you touch the underside, or need to work on it etc you'll be caked in oil/grease right? And once its on, if you later regretted that fact, youre stuck with it?

It's not that dirty after a while. Err.. I suppose it has the consistency of cheese

 

[John Barrett]

I owned a 42 ft Dutch steel boat for 12 years. I know about rust! Jenolite brushed straight onto the rusty surface will convert it to something relatively harmless.
John

FAQs - Jenolite

jenolite.com

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[4Travel]

Talk to a company like Rustbuster, they have all sorts of treatments, I'm sure they will be able to recommend the best and most effective way to sort your rust problems, it's what they do.

 

[Ninjabob]

ACF-50

Amazon product ASIN B00GA4WA08

 

[TheBig1]

use a rust converter like kurust or jenolite and then over coat with waxoyl or dinitrol

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[TobyQuest]

Whats a rust converter? It does something different than a rust remover?
Ive never heard of Jenolite. Whats clear from this post and others Ive read is that its hugely a matter of opinion, because different people swear by and criticise each of the following
Jenolite
Waxoyl
Denitrol
Liquid Grease
Lanolin
CSP
ACF

I guess the overall impression I get is that nothing is really permanent, but pretty much anything will do an alright job and just be prepared to redo every couple of years unless youre lucky

 

[Podney]

Whats a rust converter? It does something different than a rust remover?
Ive never heard of Jenolite. Whats clear from this post and others Ive read is that its hugely a matter of opinion, because different people swear by and criticise each of the following
Jenolite
Waxoyl
Denitrol
Liquid Grease
Lanolin
CSP
ACF

I guess the overall impression I get is that nothing is really permanent, but pretty much anything will do an alright job and just be prepared to redo every couple of years unless youre lucky

There is no magic formula. If I were you I would try Jenolite on an area,and simply put waste oil on another area. Review it every 3 months or so........suck it and see!
You will become the Funsters Number One expert on the subject in no time at all,and your expertise could earn you many pints of fine ale!

 

[chrisgreen]

If you drove it through saltwater it's doomed. been there done that with a landrover discovery.

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[Richard n Ann]

I put some grease on my mums Vauxhall nova where there was bare metal on the chassis... 12 years later when she sold it, it was still there and perfect underneath, like the day I put it on.

My mate has got a 2003 Nissan Navara pick up and was determined to get Dinitriol professionally done underneath. I told him but he wouldn't listen saying it's going to be put on by professionals etc, when it came back from the garage I said that smells like waxoyl but oh no it's top stuff this, guaranteed, not waxoyl rubbish....

2 years later

You guessed it...

IT'S PEELING OFF AND RUSTY Underneath!

Just like waxoyl did on my Defender

 

[TheBig1]

Whats a rust converter? It does something different than a rust remover?
Ive never heard of Jenolite. Whats clear from this post and others Ive read is that its hugely a matter of opinion, because different people swear by and criticise each of the following
Jenolite
Waxoyl
Denitrol
Liquid Grease
Lanolin
CSP
ACF

I guess the overall impression I get is that nothing is really permanent, but pretty much anything will do an alright job and just be prepared to redo every couple of years unless youre lucky

Rust converters as the name suggests, converts ferrous oxide into another stable chemical. You paint it on the rusted area and allow it to work. The rust changes from brown and flaky to black and rock hard, sealing the underlying metal from further rusting

This is widely used by vehicle restorers and off roaders to treat the obvious rust. Then cover all the metal areas with a treatment that excludes moisture and air, which is the cause of rust. Waxoyl does this well and protects the metal with a thin hard wax coating, which is sprayed or brushed on. Classic car specialists prefer to use a similar product, dinitrol, that also has rust inhibitors

These treatments if done well will last for years

 

[John Barrett]

Rust converters as the name suggests, converts ferrous oxide into another stable chemical. You paint it on the rusted area and allow it to work. The rust changes from brown and flaky to black and rock hard, sealing the underlying metal from further rusting

This is widely used by vehicle restorers and off roaders to treat the obvious rust. Then cover all the metal areas with a treatment that excludes moisture and air, which is the cause of rust. Waxoyl does this well and protects the metal with a thin hard wax coating, which is sprayed or brushed on. Classic car specialists prefer to use a similar product, dinitrol, that also has rust inhibitors

These treatments if done well will last for years

Agreed, but nobody listens to us experts...

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[Portland]

You don't say if the rust is appearing on the paintwork or on the underside, if its under the paint work no amount of underbody treatment will put it right, if however its under the camper you would be best to get it treated with Waxoil or some similar product, but get it done by a specialist so the box sections will be treated inside. There was a post on here sometime back praising a firm in Essex I think it was Hainialt can;t vouch for the spelling.
Good luck

 

[Richard n Ann]

If you want waxoyl to work it would need stripping down to the shell and sandblasting down to bare metal everywhere underneath first. Total rebuild territory. The "specialists" won't do this of course, they'll take your money and fill you full of shite about how good they are.

 

[CazPaul]

Whatever product you paint on an old vehicle will peel off with rust behind it in a couple of years, seen it many times. The best thing is spray grease or oil. It never sets, just goes dirty and lasts years. I've sprayed this on our scooter rack and it's still working great at 5 years.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=114271433054

Yes fully agree that's what I did, cheap and lasts

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[Ivory55]

Has anybody ever tried those spot rust blaster guns using a soft abrasive to clean the rust off.

 

[Landy Andy]

Dinitrol havd many products for these jobs. That is what I use, and would recommend.

 

[the1andonly]

Japanese Domestic market vehicles have no rust prevention, 1 year in uk wont help, salt water wont help, poor advise wont help. Where do you go from here? Wash the underneah throughly. Dry. Listen to the big1. Simple phosphoric acid treatments arent the most appropriate in this case, research fertan, used extensively in buildings and narrow boats as well as classic cars. You need to effectively treat the rust before adding a prventative such as waxoyl or dinitrol. The underneath needs to be clean dry and rust free ( ie converted) before using anything to trap water in or keep it out. Google diverential aeration cell. If there is a relevant owners club are there specific known problems eg with mazda bongo the rear wings rot from the inside out and a good preventative measure is to inject waxoil diluted with 20-30% white spirit. Also inject box section and bonnet cavities. If possible check cavities with an endoscope (£10 ebay).
If you have to use a filler do not use cheap talc type filled products, use aluminium filled such as dinotrol al products others are hydroscopic and can help promote rusting.
PS 30% white spirit stincks like hell.

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[TobyQuest]

If you drove it through saltwater it's doomed. been there done that with a landrover discovery.

ill take it straight to scrappy tomorrow then

 

[TobyQuest]

Yes fully agree that's what I did, cheap and lasts

Alright done. Ive bought 3 cans of this stuff.
MANNOL 8121 Greasing White Grease Lubricating Lithium Spray Lubricant

Lets hope you guys are right.
So do i need to prep the surface eg by sanding, wire brush, or otherwise, or i just go under and start spraying?

 

[CazPaul]

Alright done. Ive bought 3 cans of this stuff.
MANNOL 8121 Greasing White Grease Lubricating Lithium Spray Lubricant

Lets hope you guys are right.
So do i need to prep the surface eg by sanding, wire brush, or otherwise, or i just go under and start spraying?

if its bubbling up as you said then you need to prepare those areas.

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[Richard n Ann]

Alright done. Ive bought 3 cans of this stuff.
MANNOL 8121 Greasing White Grease Lubricating Lithium Spray Lubricant

Lets hope you guys are right.
So do i need to prep the surface eg by sanding, wire brush, or otherwise, or i just go under and start spraying?

Just make sure it's dry, wire brush any loose stuff off, mud etc, and blast it on. Goodbye corrosion, it was nice knowing you... Not

 

[chrisgreen]

ill take it straight to scrappy tomorrow then

you might be able to deal with salt damage you can see, its what you cant see is what will kill the van in the end.
saltwater is highly corrosive to cars.

 

[the1andonly]

TobyQuest could you confirm where the rust is ,underneath or painted body panels.
Without rust conversion treatment ie turning the brown stuff black blue etc just covering with grease /waxoyl/dinitrol will just multiply your problems later.

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[John Barrett]

TobyQuest could you confirm where the rust is ,underneath or painted body panels.
Without rust conversion treatment ie turning the brown stuff black blue etc just covering with grease /waxoyl/dinitrol will just multiply your problems later.

Agreed. I might change my username to NobodyListens...
John

 

[the1andonly]

Agreed. I might change my username to NobodyListens...
John

Pardon did i just hear something, nah, just knowledge singing in the breeze!

 

[Richard n Ann]

just covering with grease /waxoyl/dinitrol will just multiply your problems later.

Don't lump grease in with those wastes of money ... OK as I've said maybe they are alright if you spend hundreds of man hours preparing the job, but who wants to do that on an old van? It would be a write off. Grease is the one stop, easy, lasting, solution. It lasts 12+ years in my experience

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