LED Running Lights

Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Posts
20
Likes collected
25
Location
Sigglesthorne East Yorkshire
Funster No
31,089
MH
Autotrail Dakota
Exp
2014
LED running lights on 2014 Dakota
Within the cluster of running lights the first three are out.
Removed the cover and the pressed metal carrier holding the bulb units in place. Nothing apparent with the wiring as all are wired in line with no noticeable breakages.
Any advice gratefully received.
 
As far as I'm aware you can't replace/repair. New unit I'm afraid.
 
Depends what on the menu, could end up with Egg & Chips.:xThumb:

Seriously though, I have heard about this problem before, in that if you have a few the light up then that proves power is getting there, and you may either have a bad connection/break in the line or they are duff LED's.
I dont think entering any menu will fix the problem, and I have heard others say they had to buy a whole new replacement unit.
Good luck, I hope you find a resolve soon.
LES
PS: Picture would help identify them maybe.
 
John Gallagher
Like this perchance? Assuming you have an X250 base.

1609084067667.png


If so, it's probably a broken wire in behind the sealed first led that's out (the one next to the illuminated ones).
Try taking the unit out again and waggling (technical term!) the wire around and they may come back on however it's only a short-term fix as it'll fail again. The only viable \ simple solution is to replace the whole unit but I could only find them available as pairs at £50 the set. This includes a "control box" that will also be surplus to requirements. You may be able to get cheaper alternatives but these seem to be the OEM unit (with the bolt fixings). Fitting alternatives to the frame, which is required, will be awkward and not worth the hassle.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=262693567907
Both weblinks are O'Leary's but I think you pay postage on a direct order with them whereas through ebay it's included.

It was the near side that went on ours and to replace you do the following steps -
  • remove the light cluster (as you've already done)
1609084715660.png

  • lying underneath the front wheel arch trace the cabling that goes through the "plastic grill" shown on the above photo (ours was already "broken" as it needs to be to get the plug through) to the plug \ socket shown below (it's not the spare one hanging down!)
1609085100356.png


1609085127018.png

sorry about the focus!
  • you'll see the plug has a snap over retaining clip, undo this and pull the plug out holding the other side as it's quite tight - the plug and socket are handed so you can't fit the wrong way around
  • pull the whole light unit out from the front guiding the plug through the "plastic grill"
  • try the new drl's by plugging them into the socket and, assuming they work, unplug
  • undo the six pairs of bolts holding the original led lamps onto the frame
  • bolt the new light cluster to the frame
  • push the plug back through the "plastic grill and reconnect to the socket
  • reconnect the frame to the bodywork and refit the surrounding trim
A couple of comments, the two led strings are interchangeable and you don't need to fit the "control box" as it's already there on the bulkhead behind the nearside headlamp unit.
As said, ours was nearside but I guess offside, if that's the one you have a problem with, will be very similar.

It's fairly easy exercise but give me a shout if you need anything else.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
If so, it's probably a broken wire in behind the sealed first led that's out (the one next to the illuminated ones).
Doubtful, the power enters at the other end where the three Leds are NOT lit.
Each LED will be wired in parallel to maintain voltage so the others won't be affected by a (some) failed LEDs.
If it was a broken wire the three lit ones would also be dead being at the line end.
You have 3 failed Leds.
 
Last edited:
Doubtful, the power enters at the other end where the three Leds are NOT lit.
Each LED will be wired in parallel to maintain voltage so the others won't be affected by a (some) failed LEDs.
If it was a broken wire the three lit ones would also be dead being at the line end.
You have 3 failed Leds.
Definitely think a broken wire \ loose connection with ours as "wiggling it" got the "failed" units to work two or three times.

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John Gallagher
Like this perchance? Assuming you have an X250 base.

View attachment 451610

If so, it's probably a broken wire in behind the sealed first led that's out (the one next to the illuminated ones).
Try taking the unit out again and waggling (technical term!) the wire around and they may come back on however it's only a short-term fix as it'll fail again. The only viable \ simple solution is to replace the whole unit but I could only find them available as pairs at £50 the set. This includes a "control box" that will also be surplus to requirements. You may be able to get cheaper alternatives but these seem to be the OEM unit (with the bolt fixings). Fitting alternatives to the frame, which is required, will be awkward and not worth the hassle.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=262693567907
Both weblinks are O'Leary's but I think you pay postage on a direct order with them whereas through ebay it's included.

It was the near side that went on ours and to replace you do the following steps -
  • remove the light cluster (as you've already done)
View attachment 451612
  • lying underneath the front wheel arch trace the cabling that goes through the "plastic grill" shown on the above photo (ours was already "broken" as it needs to be to get the plug through) to the plug \ socket shown below (it's not the spare one hanging down!)
View attachment 451618

View attachment 451619
sorry about the focus!
  • you'll see the plug has a snap over retaining clip, undo this and pull the plug out holding the other side as it's quite tight - the plug and socket are handed so you can't fit the wrong way around
  • pull the whole light unit out from the front guiding the plug through the "plastic grill"
  • try the new drl's by plugging them into the socket and, assuming they work, unplug
  • undo the six pairs of bolts holding the original led lamps onto the frame
  • bolt the new light cluster to the frame
  • push the plug back through the "plastic grill and reconnect to the socket
  • reconnect the frame to the bodywork and refit the surrounding trim
A couple of comments, the two led strings are interchangeable and you don't need to fit the "control box" as it's already there on the bulkhead behind the nearside headlamp unit.
As said, ours was nearside but I guess offside, if that's the one you have a problem with, will be very similar.

It's fairly easy exercise but give me a shout if you need anything else.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Many thanks for all your comments.
Gellyneck hit it right on the nail, exactly the same problem on the same side. The photos and descriptions are such a help too.
Fortunately O Leary’s is local to me so a new set looks imminent.
Once again many thanks and the responses and advice is what makes this a great forum to be part of.
Happy New Year to you All.
Roll on 2021 when we can get back on the road and socialise person to person.
 
Definitely think a broken wire \ loose connection with ours as "wiggling it" got the "failed" units to work two or three times.
Got me beat.
The feed enters at the first led as per picture but #1, #2 and #3 leds are not lit.
If its a broken wire between #3 & #4 why arent #1, #2 and #3 lit yet 4 5 and 6 are... They get power before 4,5 & 6
 
Last edited:
Got me beat.
The feed enters at the first led as per picture but #1, #2 and #3 leds are not lit.
If its a broken wire between #3 & #4 why arent #1, #2 and #3 lit yet 4 5 and 6 are... They get power before 4,5 & 6
Exactly! Had me beat to so gave up and replaced.
The only thing I could think of was the wiring between the individual lamps were actually two core but ...............................?
If that is \ was the case then #5 (it's actually the first \ last on the wiring), #6 and #4 could be getting power but the positive feed could be broken between #4 and #3 with the negative remaining continuous. Was going to butcher the old faulty one to have a look see but didn't get around to it.
 
Many thanks for all your comments.
Gellyneck hit it right on the nail, exactly the same problem on the same side. The photos and descriptions are such a help too.
Fortunately O Leary’s is local to me so a new set looks imminent.
Once again many thanks and the responses and advice is what makes this a great forum to be part of.
Happy New Year to you All.
Roll on 2021 when we can get back on the road and socialise person to person.
I think O'Learys are closed through to early January so maybe best checking before going.
I DIDN'T say turn them back on in my post did I ?
I turned mine off in the menu and left them off, no problems with MOT
HTH :xThumb:
It passes MOT with the three lamps out.

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Bet you’re glad you didn’t have an Alfa Romeo Guiletta, my wife’s DRL’s on the driver’s side failed, an MOT failure, was gong to cost £500 for a complete new headlight assembly, it was the final electrical glitch that broke our camel’s back. A nice car utterly ruined with a rubbish electrical system. We sold it to a dealer....

Cheers,


Russ
 

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