LED Problem (1 Viewer)

[pappajohn]

If you reversed the wires going to the light unit and now the standard bulbs don't work any more then I suspect you have burned out something by reversing the polarity.

Not sure how that takes things forward other than it seems you have probably goosed something.

After reconnecting thecorrect way the bulbs now work.
They didnt work reversed....which makes me think nipped insulation instead of copper conductor in thechoc block.

 

[pappajohn]

the switch may be a multi use one, not just used in motorhomes but also in controlled environments where the chassis of the light must not go live

Possibly....but I still think insulation as in my last post.
Its just SO easy to do without noticing.

 

[Tootles]

If you reversed the wires going to the light unit and now the standard bulbs don't work any more then I suspect you have burned out something by reversing the polarity.

Not sure how that takes things forward other than it seems you have probably goosed something.

When I reversed the wires back again, the standard bulbs worked again, and I did check the supply after I re-connected, full supply at the bulb holders.

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[lunarman]

Tootles,

can you disconnect the wires that you resersed and then measure the holder into which you are putting the bulbs without any supply. Is there any voltage or is the -ve (earth) side still connected to another source even resistively. The point is to establish whether the wiring extends beyond the bulb holders you are working on and is connected to -ve and or +ve else where. If it is that would explain why reversing to polarity does not light the filament bulb

Hope you understand what I mean.

John

 

[Tootles]

Tootles,

can you disconnect the wires that you resersed and then measure the holder into which you are putting the bulbs without any supply. Is there any voltage or is the -ve (earth) side still connected to another source even resistively. The point is to establish whether the wiring extends beyond the bulb holders you are working on and is connected to -ve and or +ve else where. If it is that would explain why reversing to polarity does not light the filament bulb

Hope you understand what I mean.

John

(I know that with 12 volts DC there is technically no 'positive and negative'), but the unit is wired thus.
Blue and black cables come from the supply....(choc-block). The black goes directly to the 'earth' connector in the top bulb holder, and then is looped to the rest. The blue wire goes down to the switch unit, then to the bottom bulb holder center connection, then loops up to the others.

 

[pappajohn]

(I know that with 12 volts DC there is technically no 'positive and negative'), but the unit is wired thus.
Blue and black cables come from the supply....(choc-block). The black goes directly to the 'earth' connector in the top bulb holder, and then is looped to the rest. The blue wire goes down to the switch unit, then to the bottom bulb holder center connection, then loops up to the others.

Then there is absolutely no reason for the filament bulbs not to work both ways round and as the leds are in a captive metal cap they too will be wired centre positive.
The only ones which may need to be reversed are the flat, 2 pin circuit board types or 2 pin w5 (number plate) types

Reverse the wires once more at the choc block but check for voltage at the bulb holders afterwards.
Still convinced the insulation was in the choc block instead of the copper conductor

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[tonyidle]

If the filament bulbs don't work with power reversed at the connector before the switch then, as you have suggested, it isn't a simple switch. My guess is it incorporates a dimmer which doesn't like reversed polarity. Bypass the switch completely and the leds will work correctly. You may need to remove the switch, bypass any electronics inside it, and use it as a simple on/off switch. Either way the 'switch' is the source of the problem.