Leaking water pump on VW Compass Calypso (1 Viewer)

[sharon12345]

Hi all.

We have recently purchased a 1996 VW Compass Calypso and after filling up the water tank and turning on the water pump we noticed it was leaking from around the join on the hot water tank. We think this has been a long standing issue, but this is the first time we have noticed it.
Is it possible to just replace a seal or does this mean a new water tank?


Any help would be greatly appreciated x

 

[Phill D]

Hi and welcome.
I assume it's the blue pipe that's leaking.
If it is then it looks like the connector is screw in.
Don't know the van but....

It could be a simple o ring replacement or perhaps it is a PTFE raped joint.

It is likely to be a suck it and see job.... Be prepared to find fittings when you discover what is actually in place.

 

[sharon12345]

Hi Phill.
Thank you for your reply.
It’s the whole area around the large silver cylinder joint that is leaking from the top (near the red hot water pipe)The blue and red pipe are fine.
I think it’s going to be a nightmare of a job, but hopefully there is a seal in there somewhere that just needs replacing…..fingers crossed x

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[tonyidle]

Assuming Carver Cascade the big nut at the other end of the cylinder is the only fixing. What usually happens is the cylinder corrodes from the inside and around the seal area. That heater isn't made now (and hasn't been made for a long time). It is worth attempting a repair as it is only an O ring but be prepared to replace the whole thing if there's any corrosion.

 

[Eggs]

That silver cylinder doesn't look like it's all the way 'home', I'd try tapping it on with a rubber mallet to see if the two face will go together.

 

[rb62]

This might help,

Carver Cascade 2 water heater tie rod break.

At 6 a.m. yesterday I switched on the water heater then hopped back into bed with a brew. 20 mins later a mighty thump shook the body, the pump started running and water began to run out from under the Carver heater locker. In short the steel tie rod (Item 23) holding the whole heater assembly...

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

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[Spriddler]

EDIT After posting the below info I see that rb62 has put a link to my own original post but I'll not delete my post below.


I've had the same issue with my now obsolete Carver Cascade
- in fact the internal tie rod (13) that pulls the cylinder (20) against the large 'O' ring (22) had corroded and broken (see arrow below), a common fault of these now ageing heaters.

This is my broken one. Yours may not have actually broken but the nut (24) may need tightening or most likely a new 'O' ring (22) seal between the cylinder and the cast ali front box.

A replacement kit of tie rod, large 'O' ring and other consumables was available when I rebuilt mine June 2020. I'll dig out the details of the supplier.
These are the two 'O' rings that seal the cylinder.

CARVER CASCADE 2 GAS GE RAPIDE WATER HEATER BOILER O RING SEALS | eBay

CARVER CASCADE 2 WATER HEATER AND HENRY. Fits ALL Gas with 12mm tie bar and Gas Electric and Rapide heaters. 1 x 12mm O ring seal for the tie bar. 12MM THREADED TIE BAR SEAL SET. A 12mm tie bar requires a 19mm spanner to fit the nut.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Spriddler]

That silver cylinder doesn't look like it's all the way 'home', I'd try tapping it on with a rubber mallet to see if the two face will go together.

The end nut (24) pulls it all together. Besides the end nut is within/covered by the electrical terminal box so not practical (or necessary) to hit it which would also risk cracking the cast ali front box as it's cast from Mazak (a very poor quality and brittle material).

 

[Spriddler]

A further point.......
Check that the leak isn't coming from the inlet or outlet hose-to-nylon spigot or nylon spigot-to-ali casting interface.

My outlet spigot had corroded in the ali casting and was leaking. Soddes Law said that when I tried to remove it it snapped off due to becoming brittle with age. I had to make lengthways internal cuts in it with a fine saw blade to remove segments and then use a hot air gun to soften it and pick out the remains to clean the thread in the ali casting and fit a replacement spigot.
It might be possible to do this in situ but you do really need to remove the entire heater unit to do this job and the above 'O' ring replacement in my first post above but it depends upon what access you have to the heater - on my 1995 Compass it's buried in a locker. Neither are technically difficult jobs and I'd never done any work on a heater before - take photos as you go for later reference.

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[sharon12345]

Thank you so much for your help.
We are currently away for the week in the Moho, so we’ll look as soon as we get home.
We’ve been used to being ‘back to basics’ as we used to have a 1968 Early Bay and living without all the mod cons.
Thank you again everyone x

 

[Spriddler]

Thank you so much for your help.
We are currently away for the week in the Moho, so we’ll look as soon as we get home.
We’ve been used to being ‘back to basics’ as we used to have a 1968 Early Bay and living without all the mod cons.
Thank you again everyone x

If you're with the m/h in or around Mid Sussex I'd be happy to supervise/interfere.

 

[mitzimad]

If its unrepairable magnums do a conversion kit to fit a newer heater as the old flue is bigger

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