Just use varnish or is there something better?

[kevenh]

I look after most motorhome maintenance but mrskevemh thinks there’s some painting to do.

the first pic is showing the woodwork our sink is recessed into.
The second is our main table.
Both need some TLC
Maybe with a varnish coat.
But mrskeveh wonders if the sink area needs a specific product.

Does a product for that wet area exist?

 

[Mikeco]

I would use yacht varnish which would be better, you need to remove all the old stuff first though.

 

[Gellyneck]

If it was me I'd be fully sanding down the sink surround and, if you can't get the discolouration removed, fully treat with a single of coat of an appropriate coloured solvent based stain. Finish off with two \ three coats of satin yacht varnish. You could use gloss but it's (usually) very reflective.
For the table edging, and given you've got yacht varnish , fully scrape \ sand down and apply two \ three coats. No need to stain unless there is some discolouration that needs "hidden".

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Just as an alternative, sanding will almost inevitably leave some marks on the sink, and the table top, you could mask the area's above and below then use a paint / varnish stripper, a bit messy, but easily wiped off. There are clear coats of resin based two part mixes on the market, more expensive, but harder wearing. Probably yacht varnish on there, so seems to have lasted quite a while.
Mike.

 

[kevenh]

Brill
I knew I could count on MHF

I think the discolouration see is where the old finish has worn off.
Mrskevemh will be preparing the surface and painting with a yacht varnish

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[Stealaway]

Think about a Matt varnish.
I think it always looks smarter

 

[Gellyneck]

I think the discolouration see is where the old finish has worn off.

I could be wrong (as usual!) but I think you may find water has seeped into the joint in the timber and, possibly, discoloured it to a fair depth so surface sanding may not bring it back to the original bare timber colour hence the reason I said to use stain. If it does sand up OK just use the varnish as you say.

 

[Gellyneck]

Think about a Matt varnish. Gloss looks cheap IMHO

Agreed, not a fan of gloss varnish however I think matt looks as if it's "faded" \ "scuffed" hence the reason I use satin. Everyone to their own, right enough.

 

[kevenh]

I could be wrong (as usual!) but I think you may find water has seeped into the joint in the timber and, possibly, discoloured it to a fair depth so surface sanding may not bring it back to the original bare timber colour hence the reason I said to use stain. If it does sand up OK just use the varnish as you say.

No. Your feedback looks spot on.
Zooming into the pic, I see the joint area you describe.
Mrskevemh will have to adjust her fix for that area

 

[Shrimp]

I tidied up all the wooden edges in our old Camper, years ago, used Yacht varnish for that but don’t think I used the high gloss one.

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[Stealaway]

Agreed, not a fan of gloss varnish however I think matt looks as if it's "faded" \ "scuffed" hence the reason I use satin. Everyone to their own, right enough.

Yep satin is better

 

[Eddiex]

I'm glad someone asked this question - I need to do this job on my Hymer sink surround which I think is made up of a thick piece of ply with top made of some sort of covering. The ply edges are in good condition but I think could do with a refresh.

I'm drawn to Ronseal having used their products in the past. Any other good manufacturers to consider?

 

[Gellyneck]

I'm glad someone asked this question - I need to do this job on my Hymer sink surround which I think is made up of a thick piece of ply with top made of some sort of covering. The ply edges are in good condition but I think could do with a refres.

I'm drawn to Ronseal having used their products in the past. Any other good manufacturers to consider?

Have used Ronseal Satin Yacht varnish before and considering it for a flooring job I've got to do but was disappointed in the last lot of their exterior stain I got. Think it was due to change from solvent to water based though.

Rust-Oleum Spar varnish is very good, as well, but think it only comes in gloss.

 

[deleted79651]

Two Ronnies 'News Item': 'In a packed programme tonight, we'll be talking to the sex mad interior decorator and his wife who begin on the bed, but conclude on the floor because they both prefer a mat finish ...

Steve

 

[Eddiex]

Have used Ronseal Satin Yacht varnish before and considering it for a flooring job I've got to do but was disappointed in the last lot of their exterior stain I got. Think it was due to change from solvent to water based though.

Rust-Oleum Spar varnish is very good, as well, but think it only comes in gloss.

That's a good point - I have in the past used Ronseal Diamond hard varnish on some indoor shelves that went on really well and had a really 'hard' finish which suited the look I was after - but that was the old 'pollute the world' formula which I don't think you can get anymore.

I see Rust-Oleum gets a good review but is a tad pricey £54 for a quart on Amazon! I'll only used a tiny amount .................!

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[DuxDeluxe]

Brill
I knew I could count on MHF

I think the discolouration see is where the old finish has worn off.
Mrskevemh will be preparing the surface and painting with a yacht varnish

By “yacht varnish” be careful what you buy. You need a proper marine product rather than something from a DIY shed with yacht varnish on the tin. And yes, a satin or Matt finish is better

 

[Eddiex]

By “yacht varnish” be careful what you buy. You need a proper marine product rather than something from a DIY shed with yacht varnish on the tin. And yes, a satin or Matt finish is better

Any recommended makes? Thanks

 

[berni109]

Have a look at a 2 part floor varnish. (If u can still get it)
Very hard wearing but not cheap.

 

[The Coops]

Sand it off and use Danish oil, it will waterproof the wood better than varnish and gives a matt finish. Just to warn you it will smell for a few days

 

[Geo]

You should use some Oxalic Acid after sanding to bleach out the stained /water marked wood
My personal choice would be 2 or 3 coats from a rattle can of automobile clear coat lacquer for a pro result
very quick drying too
Mask as reqd for sanding and lacquering

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[DuxDeluxe]

Any recommended makes? Thanks

I always used International products but there are others. The problem is that it is expensive and only a small amount is needed for that job So I suppose that a compromise needs to me made. It is a shame I live in Lincolnshire as I would have gladly loaned my almost full tin of “Perfection” varnish for that. Last used on Wayfarer no 33 - 1957 built boat

 

[DuxDeluxe]

Sand it off and use Danish oil, it will waterproof the wood better than varnish and gives a matt finish. Just to warn you it will smell for a few days

That is a good idea. I was trying to think of an oil or wax that would waterproof it.

 

[deleted79651]

Sand it off and use Danish oil, it will waterproof the wood better than varnish and gives a matt finish. Just to warn you it will smell for a few days

And be careful how you dispose of the rags, Danish Oil is highly combustible ...

Steve

 

[Eddiex]

I always used International products but there are others. The problem is that it is expensive and only a small amount is needed for that job So I suppose that a compromise needs to me made. It is a shame I live in Lincolnshire as I would have gladly loaned my almost full tin of “Perfection” varnish for that. Last used on Wayfarer no 33 - 1957 built boat

Thanks for the kind offer! Sadly I'm in Surrey so not nearby. I'll do some searching..............

 

[Itsmcb]

Mounting a stainless steel sink underneath a laminate top with a timber core goes against all the kitchen fitting 'rules'. it exposes the timber to the water as in this example. Your lucky the water hasn't gotten under the laminate surface and caused it to lift. That type of top should really have the sink set in from above.

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[Itsmcb]

And be careful how you dispose of the rags, Danish Oil is highly combustible ...

Steve

Yes, they can actually self combust if placed into a small bin. Best disposed of in a big outside bin.

 

[deleted79651]

Yes, they can actually self combust if placed into a small bin. Best disposed of in a big outside bin.

Tucking a 1/2 used Danish Oil rag in your jeans pocket in a brain fade moment is a pretty stupid thing to do ... Another time when I won the 'Wally of the Week' Contest by a Country Mile ... I think I must have been on my way to dispose of the rag when I noticed a slight blemish on the finish, and stopped to do the '2 seconds' remedial work, and became distracted ... Well, that's the case for the Defence!

Steve

 

[DuxDeluxe]

Mounting a stainless steel sink underneath a laminate top with a timber core goes against all the kitchen fitting 'rules'. it exposes the timber to the water as in this example. Your lucky the water hasn't gotten under the laminate surface and caused it to lift. That type of top should really have the sink set in from above.

If it is a motorhome worktop it is probably two sheets of Formica separated by some corrugated cardboard and edged. That is why dropping a plate or something on it makes a hole

 

[Jim lea]

Might be worth a look at Osmo products. Easy to apply and very durable.

 

[Raul]

+1 for Danish Oil. We got a walnut worktop in the van, finished with danish oil. Same for the bed/ sofa side. It takes some beating. Over 2 years and still looking as original. You can re fresh with a light sanding and a reapplication of oil at any time.