Is it OK to cut this rib out so I can fit fridge vents here?

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This is the off side rear of a Peugeot boxer. I'd like to put the fridge here but would need to remove this rib to fit the fridge vents. Is that acceptable?
Thanks
Nick

2022-11-23 13.58.37.jpg
 
I’ve cut at the top for the windows. The bottom bit is more vulnerable to dent in. I would cut and move it relocate. I also would add ply ribs to stiffen up the surrounding of the new opening.
 
its only my view but yes to fit a fridge. cut the sealant that sticks it to the panel first
 
I’ve cut at the top for the windows. The bottom bit is more vulnerable to dent in. I would cut and move it relocate. I also would add ply ribs to stiffen up the surrounding of the new opening.
I second that
 
Part of the roll over crash protection?

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Not something I'd do as it's there for a reason. I'd either use/adapt the vents to go either side of the rib (cut out the rear part in the centre of the vents so they still looks like normal vents externally which I think would still provide sufficient air flow) or instead install a compressor one which would negate the need for vents at all.
 
The fridge vents are just plastic ,can't you fit them either side with some adjustment of the vents. I think your van sidewall will be a bit wobbly without the rib unless you stick the fridge to the sidewall for support.
 
If it was me I would not remove it. The vents could be put to either side if the fridge has to go there. Just my opinion. I would worry about the strength of that side panel with it removed. (y)
 
Not better fitting a compressor fridge no need to remove then?

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i would say yes it looks like its purpose is to stop the panel drumming i would glue it back to the panel adjacent to the fridge vent its construction looks to be the same as the one above which is removed on most pvc its the longitudal one you cant do much with
 
This is the off side rear of a Peugeot boxer. I'd like to put the fridge here but would need to remove this rib to fit the fridge vents. Is that acceptable?
Thanks
Nick

View attachment 690489

In my Murvi, the fridge and water tank backs on to the N/S half rear door (toilet and shower room behind the O/S) there is vents cut into the rear doors for the fridge and, if it goes wrong, you can easily get to the back of the fridge and tank.

The strut you are indicating is essential to pass the 'roll-over' test, so I would desist. :unsure:
 
You can remove it if needed. As mitzimad said above, it's just there to deaden sound, it's not structural.

Just need to trim through the small spot welds top and bottom, then it should come out without much effort at all.

EDIT: I'll PM you a copy of the official converters handbook. It takes some wading through, but will give you accurate info on your build.
 
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You can remove it if needed. As mitzimad said above, it's just there to deaden sound, it's not structural.

Just need to trim through the small spot welds top and bottom, then it should come out without much effort at all.

I'm sorry to have to disagree with you, but in my opinion, with the opposite side already weakened by the sliding door, (presuming there IS a sliding door) as there is no chassis, to remove that strut, unnecessarily, would weaken that centre section considerably in an accident causing a roll-over.

But what do I know?🤷‍♂️

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I'm sorry to have to disagree with you, but in my opinion, with the opposite side already weakened by the sliding door, (presuming there IS a sliding door) as there is no chassis, to remove that strut, unnecessarily, would weaken that centre section considerably in an accident causing a roll-over. :unsure:
Totally understand what you mean, but I wasn't guessing, I was going by the official converters book.

I've edited my post to say I'll send a copy to the OP (y)
 
Nobody seams to panic at the prospect of rolling a van over when considering the quantity of ‘stiffening‘ ribs people remove to fit pop tops to various vans.

It wouldn’t worry me removing it, considering the amount of internal furniture you’ll be fitting.
 
Totally understand what you mean, but I wasn't guessing, I was going by the official converters book.

I've edited my post to say I'll send a copy to the OP (y)
Neither was i as i also checked facts before commenting i checked this out when i did my self build using the same document as wissel

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Thanks for all the helpful comments. Wissel has very kindly sent me the converter's handbook so I'll give that a good read before continuing. For what it's worth, I agree it doesn't appear structural and as XxAnthxX said there will be quite a bit of floor to ceiling furniture going in.
 
Are you gonna give us a shuftie at your plans then ... we do like a good nosy! :giggle:
 
Current plans look something like this:-
 

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Thanks for all the helpful comments. Wissel has very kindly sent me the converter's handbook so I'll give that a good read before continuing. For what it's worth, I agree it doesn't appear structural and as XxAnthxX said there will be quite a bit of floor to ceiling furniture going in.

While I appreciate Wissel, and others, conversion experience, one of the reasons I hold/held a full HGV, PSV, Motorbike etc. was so that in the 70's I could be a Freelance Driver and turn my hand to anything on the UK roads.

This experience got me demonstration and test-driving work from some of the large vehicle manufacturers both here and abroad, Leyland, Scania, Daf etc. and knowing how to sign a 'secrets document'.
The only reason I mention this is, during that time I realised, no manufacturer would put on extra metal or paint that was not, absolutely, necessary!
As I was told many times when I asked for something extra, "£1 saved on a manufacturing run of 1000's equals a lot of wages".

Because of this, I still do not believe that that strut is unimportant or is there just to stop 'drumming' especially if, like so many converters, you are going to cut more struts in the roof to facilitate skylights.

I think this, unnecessarily, weakens the integral structure of the vehicles. How much, I don't know?

It's your vehicle and your choice but if it were me, I would revise my plans.

Good Luck, I'll say no more! :giggle:
 
You will be adding a lot more strength/ rigidity to your van with all the ply/ furniture you are putting in your van than you will lose by removing that strut. It’s your van and your conversion. As such it’s your decision. The big converters remove them 😉 If you are worried simply stick a large piece of ply to the panel and cut through both ply and steel panel. There is virtually no strength in a flat steel panel that’s why manufacturers put creases in panels 👍
 
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While I appreciate Wissel, and others, conversion experience, one of the reasons I hold/held a full HGV, PSV, Motorbike etc. was so that in the 70's I could be a Freelance Driver and turn my hand to anything on the UK roads.

This experience got me demonstration and test-driving work from some of the large vehicle manufacturers both here and abroad, Leyland, Scania, Daf etc. and knowing how to sign a 'secrets document'.
The only reason I mention this is, during that time I realised, no manufacturer would put on extra metal or paint that was not, absolutely, necessary!
As I was told many times when I asked for something extra, "£1 saved on a manufacturing run of 1000's equals a lot of wages".

Because of this, I still do not believe that that strut is unimportant or is there just to stop 'drumming' especially if, like so many converters, you are going to cut more struts in the roof to facilitate skylights.

I think this, unnecessarily, weakens the integral structure of the vehicles. How much, I don't know?

It's your vehicle and your choice but if it were me, I would revise my plans.

Good Luck, I'll say no more! :giggle:
so the fiat convertors hand book is wrong ?
 
This is the off side rear of a Peugeot boxer. I'd like to put the fridge here but would need to remove this rib to fit the fridge vents. Is that acceptable?
Thanks
Nick

View attachment 690489
Dodgy. We avoided it as it appears fairly structural to vans integrity. Our vent is just below and I created a flow channel down to the vent with a pair of silent pc fans. The folw of warm air out sucks the cold in from lower vent. Works a treat. We get ice in Greece at 35c.
 
This is the off side rear of a Peugeot boxer. I'd like to put the fridge here but would need to remove this rib to fit the fridge vents. Is that acceptable?
Thanks
Nick

View attachment 690489
If you look at the bottom of the rib section you can clearly see it isn't attached to anything of substance so definitely not structural.

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