Is hard-wiring Sat-Nav straight forward for non-professional?

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I have a hard-wiring kit. I bought it originally for our Zafira car but due to the different fuse types and location of the relevant fusebox, I abandoned fitting. (Some may recall Zafiras were catching fire and there were issues with the fusebox or something).
So, I'd like to hard wire the sat nav in our 2012 Boxer based Bailey.
There is a fuse box under the steering wheel. I was going to piggy-back the hard wiring fuse to a suitable fuse there. Suitable being live only when ignition on. Need to think about best way to get the cable out of the way.
I've found a "how to" on YouTube but it's for a car and they basically shove the lead hehind the windscreen.
Anyone who may have any tips on how to best do this, will be greatly appreciated.
 
The radio ignition-switched power is a handy source. No separate fuse needed.
 
Once an electrical connection is identified it's a matter of feeding the wire discretely. Much of the bulkhead can be detached fairly easily. Not really difficult, more fiddly.

Wyn
 
The radio ignition-switched power is a handy source. No separate fuse needed.
Is it likely that I will be able to identify the radio ignition switch? The previous owner has fitted a switch for the radio to be on when the ignition is off, so maybe, if I follow that wiring, it'll lead to the radio ignition switch.

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On our Fiat Ducato there is a dash mounted cigar lighter and beside it room to fit a USB socket which I did. I run my satnav from this now which probably doesn't count as "hard wired" but it works and is fairly discrète.
 
Dead simple on our 2013 Fiat Ducato. 2012 Peugeot Boxer might be be very similar?
  • unscrew the two torx screws on the upper front edge of the fuse box close to the drivers right knee (assuming standard UK model)
  • this panel then pulls up slightly to release a couple of tangs on the bottom edge
  • on the photo below I piggybacked off the fuse marked with the arrow (it's ignition switched) and routed the +ve cable as shown (joint the piggyback cable to the dashcam power lead using cable connectors)
  • this leads up the inside of the dashboard and out through the gap between this and the "A" pillar
  • cable is then routed up under the rubber trim seal \ blinds to top of windscreen and across the blind top rail to the mirror position (you may want to position your dashcam elsewhere but gives you the idea)
  • I loosened the large torx bolt in the blue box and connected the -ve cable behind this after crimping on a spade connector
  • refit the fuse box cover as a reverse of the above
1566133845378.png


Let me know if any questions.
 
DBK-we too have a cigar lighter on the dash. In fact, we have two cigar type sockets next to each other. One has a cover showing 180W maximum rating. Currently, e plug a hub into one of the sockets that runs both sat nav and dash cam as well as having 4usb sockets. This way, we can also charge/run an iPhone for radIo streaming.
However, it's not elegant and the plugs (not the Usbs) often pop out if the road is bumpy. We've seen posts about fitting replacement cigar sockets with locking types but this seems a bit technical. Also, our sat nav and dash cam don't run off USB leads. If they did, I'd prefer this as these don't come out of the hub easily. But ideally, I'd like to hard wire at least the sat nav.
And this is planned after my wifi aerial project, on which you've helpfully already advised.
 
Gellyneck- thank you taking the trouble and effort for putting up such a clear and helpful guide! Can't wait to have a go. Looks simple enough. Famous last words:censored:
 
Is it likely that I will be able to identify the radio ignition switch? The previous owner has fitted a switch for the radio to be on when the ignition is off, so maybe, if I follow that wiring, it'll lead to the radio ignition switch.
Gellyneck has offered a possibly simpler alternative. What I was referring to was the original radio feed (in your case, conveniently, unused). The radio has two feeds: one is permanently on and maintains memories and settings; the other is only on when the ignition is turned on (the one I referred to as ignition-switched). That is the one you could use (whether also in use by the radio or not).

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replacement cigar sockets with locking types but this seems a bit technical.

Oh wow , your gonna find this post brutal , but If you find a replacement too technical , then leave well alone . Sorry mate , honest answer . I write as someone who likes to help , however some people are capable of carrying out a reasonable job , while others should be arrested for owning a tool kit .
I've recently found a previous owners attempt at wiring , during a routine service on my own van . What i believe , judging from the cross section of the wires , may also have been a sat nav . All the wrong connectors , no sign of insulation , hacked into what i would class , a primary circuit (hazard lights) . Best of all , when he removed the wiring , he just ragged it out with a pair of side cutters , leaving live tails just ready to short out . The only saving grace is it's surrounded by plastic , it's now on my list of jobs to be sorted properly , before it becomes an issue .
 
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Thanks for your frankness but I don't consider that hard wiring the sat nav is as complex as changing the cigar sockets.
As for leaving "live tails just ready to short out" it's not the way I work. I have some understanding of electrical matters but, rest assured, if I feel I'm out of my depth, at any stage, I'll get assistance.
 
Thanks for your frankness but I don't consider that hard wiring the sat nav is as complex as changing the cigar sockets.
As for leaving "live tails just ready to short out" it's not the way I work. I have some understanding of electrical matters but, rest assured, if I feel I'm out of my depth, at any stage, I'll get assistance.

Good man . I'm sorry for being so blunt , but i find electrical work an emotive subject . I have seen some horrendous wiring in my time . Mostly in car's , but also in caravans and even the cause of rewiring a boat . It's a subject everyone thinks they can do , however often rushed , it becomes a folly . At best a troublesome recurring fault , at worst a vehicle fire .
I personally favour a solder and shrink film approach , rarely using a connector other than to the fitting itself . Even then their soldered , it takes slightly longer , but is a far more superior joint .

Oh and just for the record , i would consider the replacement of a cigarette lighter to be amongst the simplest of electrical jobs . The wires are already in place , cut to the right lengths and dam it , even the hole is cut ready for mounting the fitting .
 
Also it depends what sat nav you have, for instance a Garmin Camper 770 has the traffic update antenna in the power cable. So you would get this feature if you hard wired it with a different cable.
 

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