Inverter Overload - Voltage Reduction (1 Viewer)

Richard Miller

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Attached is a photo of the 'control' for the inverter. The regulator often allows for a voltage of greater than 14.5v (according to spec sheet this ought to be the maximum). Every time the voltage exceeds the 14.5v threshold the inverter shuts down. It seems as though the voltage regulator is not doing its job correctly, and I may have to replace it but in the meantime, is there anything that I can put 'in-line' to correct this anomaly?
Voltage.jpg
 

hilldweller

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17.44 V

You are in deep poo. Turn any charging off now before the battery is completely cooked, which it might be by now.
 

funflair

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This time I think Brian is talking a lot of sense(y) it looks like the regulator is just allowing voltage straight through.

Martin
 

DBK

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Is that the solar panel voltage? If so it is fine but as mentioned, if it's the battery voltage the controller is goosed. Disconnect and throw it away. :)
 
Oct 2, 2008
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Your inverter is just protecting itself Lucky You :) if wet battery check it still is , also if it feels hot , be very careful with vapours !

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Lenny HB

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Inverter??? I think you mean solar regulator. I think your regulator is goosed and will be frying your batteries unless the voltage reading is for the output of the PV panels.
Have you put a multimeter across the batteries and checked the voltage, should be a max of 14.7 for AGM or 14.4v for other types of battery.
 

hilldweller

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This time I think Brian is talking a lot of sense(y)

Martin

Nope.

I took his words ( Attached is a photo of the 'control' for the inverter )as correct and saw 17V.
But it's not the inverter at all, that's his solar controller showing a reasonable voltage.
 

funflair

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Nope.

I took his words ( Attached is a photo of the 'control' for the inverter )as correct and saw 17V.
But it's not the inverter at all, that's his solar controller showing a reasonable voltage.
I did take the photo as the solar controller, but what use is displaying panel volts surely battery would be much more use.

Martin

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hilldweller

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So the answer should have been: Measure your battery voltage accurately, then we can see the problem.

It might be one of tolerance. That 14.5V is not exact, neither is the charger. It could be the charger, at these temperatures is charging to 14.6V and the trip is tripping at 14.4V. Nothing in real terms but no easy answer either.

Our solar can be adjusted maybe yours can.
 
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If thats the solar panel voltage before passing to battery at suitable level eg 14.4v and the inverter is shutting down then the supply is not sufficient for the inverter to maintain output .
 
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Richard Miller

Richard Miller

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I'm very impressed with the interest and level of replies, thank you all.

I cannot add much more than you can see, save to say that I used the word 'controller' to describe the solar panel voltage regulator and the power monitor connected above it.

The power monitor is connected to the leisure battery, which I believe is taking the 'regulated' feed from the solar panel, hence my concern over the 'high' input

The inverter works fine as long as the apparent input from the panel is no greater than 14.5v, when it exceeds this the inverter shuts down, so it seems to be to high a voltage causing the shutdown and disconnected the inverter works fine right down to 10.5v

Disconnected from it all, the battery shows a voltage of 13.5 and is cold to the touch.

Not able to find any adjustment on the panel and the panel dates from 2008

I suppose the answer is an auto electrician attached/working in this industry.

Any other suggestions will be gratefully received

Thanks

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DBK

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I suggest you measure the voltage across the battery when it is all connected and see if it matches the voltage on your display. We are not sure what that voltage is but it is nore likely to be the output form the solar panel not what is being fed to the battery - but it is impossible to be sure until you put a voltmeter to the battery. You can get a cheap one from Screwfix for £10 and it will be invaluable. Don't run your battery down to 10.5 volts either - that will kill it from the other direction.
 
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Richard Miller

Richard Miller

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DBK, thanks. Reconnected, waited ant 5 mins, and watched as the voltage climbed steadily. The voltmeter registered a couple of decimal points behind the voltage display please see attached photo. Disconnected it again. Thanks for the low voltage warning.
 

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Oct 2, 2008
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If that voltmeter reading is from battery it is as was first thought and way too high . Leave disconnected until repaired :)

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hilldweller

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DBK, thanks. Reconnected, waited ant 5 mins, and watched as the voltage climbed steadily. The voltmeter registered a couple of decimal points behind the voltage display please see attached photo. Disconnected it again. Thanks for the low voltage warning.

So to be 100% clear, you are measuring 17+V across the battery ?

If so, it's been going on some time so not a lot of hope for the battery.
 
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Richard Miller

Richard Miller

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Absolutely, 17plus volts across the terminals. It must have been happening for some time and the discovery was only recently made with the addition of the newly fitted voltmeter. The battery seems okay, how can I expect it to fail, is there a reliable test to check its veracity?

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Absolutely, 17plus volts across the terminals. It must have been happening for some time and the discovery was only recently made with the addition of the newly fitted voltmeter. The battery seems okay, how can I expect it to fail, is there a reliable test to check its veracity?
Just replace the regulator and use it, see if it lasts ok. That's what I'd do anyway.
 

dave newell

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That type of solar regulator is very often dual voltage, 12 & 24. If the solar is connected before the battery it sets itself to 24volt charging. My guess is this is what's happened. Try disconnecting the solar feed negative from the solar reg, then the battery negative. Leave it all disconnected for a couple of minutes then reconnect but do the battery first, this should then "set" the regulator to 12 volts. If that doesn't solve your issue then your reg is fubar and needs replacing.

D.
 

flatpackchicken

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I had exactly the same problem and controller was actually very hot to the touch, is yours like this !!!!! Anyway disconnected it and replaced with a different make and now happy days does not get more than 14.4 v coming down now :).

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hilldweller

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The battery seems okay, how can I expect it to fail, is there a reliable test to check its veracity?

A normal wet lead acid boils off the electrolyte and an uncovered plate produced no electricity. In the old days you could just top it up.

Capacity check. First charge fully then apply a known load and time how long it lasts. Trouble is finding something that can pull about 100W continually. A decent average battery would run that for 5 hours within the 50% discharge limit.
 
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Richard Miller

Richard Miller

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Hi Dave, Thanks, makes so much sense and could be this months top tip, well see in the morning when the sun comes up
 

bigtwin

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A normal wet lead acid boils off the electrolyte and an uncovered plate produced no electricity. In the old days you could just top it up.

Capacity check. First charge fully then apply a known load and time how long it lasts. Trouble is finding something that can pull about 100W continually. A decent average battery would run that for 5 hours within the 50% discharge limit.

I did this recently using a 60W main beam light bulb. That draws 60/12 = 5A. On a 110Ah battery, that is close enough to the C20 rate (20 * 5 = 100Ah) at which battery capacities are determined. Thus running that for 10 hrs should result in 50% of the capacity being consumed. If the voltage measured after 10hrs is less than 12.2V, then the battery capacity is below its originally stated capacity.

Ian

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Richard Miller

Richard Miller

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I did this recently using a 60W main beam light bulb. That draws 60/12 = 5A. On a 110Ah battery, that is close enough to the C20 rate (20 * 5 = 100Ah) at which battery capacities are determined. Thus running that for 10 hrs should result in 50% of the capacity being consumed. If the voltage measured after 10hrs is less than 12.2V, then the battery capacity is below its originally stated capacity.

Ian

Thanks, I'm hoping Dave's suggestion works, once that's done i'll need to establish the possible damage to the battery. Richard
 
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Richard Miller

Richard Miller

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That type of solar regulator is very often dual voltage, 12 & 24. If the solar is connected before the battery it sets itself to 24volt charging. My guess is this is what's happened. Try disconnecting the solar feed negative from the solar reg, then the battery negative. Leave it all disconnected for a couple of minutes then reconnect but do the battery first, this should then "set" the regulator to 12 volts. If that doesn't solve your issue then your reg is fubar and needs replacing.

D.
Hi Dave, I feel this was my best/last option as it made so much sense, however, it was not to be. So its off to the shops, anyway thanks for your thoughts. Richard

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Lenny HB

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Absolutely, 17plus volts across the terminals. It must have been happening for some time and the discovery was only recently made with the addition of the newly fitted voltmeter. The battery seems okay, how can I expect it to fail, is there a reliable test to check its veracity?

Best way of testing a leisure battery is to fully charge it, let it rest for an hour then & check the voltage:-

1) Place a load on it of say 5 amps (can do this in the van by turning on lights etc.).
2) Leave it with the load for a time that equates to 25% of battery capacity (100A/H battery it would be 5 amps for 5 hours).
3) Turn the load off let the battery settle for ½-1 hour measure the voltage, the battery will now be @ 75% state of charge.
4) Repeat 3, battery will now be @ 50% state of charge.
6) Repeat 3, battery will now be @ 25% state of charge. - not recommended to take a wet cell (standard battery) below 50% too often.
 

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