Internal wiring

H

Harry Harris

Joined
Oct 4, 2025
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115,509
MH
Globecar Globescout
I have a strong aversion to running cables underneath vans, for practical reasons. Hence, with our previous van (Talbot Express Avalon) I always ran cables internally, usually between the inner and outer walls (occasionally over the inner ceiling or under the false floor).

I’m finding this approach extremely frustrating in the Globescout. It seems that the only place I can get at the existing wiring in the wall is by removing the control panel above the habitation door. To get at the same wiring in the bedroom, it looks like I’m going to have to dismantle the actual cupboards!

Has anyone run cables end-to-end internally, and if so, please pass on any tips!

Also, and I appreciate this is a long shot - does anyone have wiring diagrams or schematics for these vans please?

Cheers

Harry
 
I also installed a reversing camera in our Campscout.
I ran the cable inside the top cupboards in the bedroom through the top of the fridge, then inside the kitchen top cupboards, in behind the control panel and then through the roof lining to the rear view mirror.
A total ball ache but its the only way I could think of in order to keep the cable safe and hidden.
There's also a route on the other side of the van at low level. From the passengers bench seat to behind the bathroom into the Truma heater area. It required a stiff but flexible thin rod and a lot of patience but can be done. I also pulled in a mousing cord for future use.
 
You can buy rods for running cables through tight spaces where you can't easily gain access
 
The 'proper' rods aren't expensive and work much better than a coathanger.

I learned this after many years of coathanger use when I was helping a friend who had the proper ones and I got a chance to use them.

Such a difference.

One thing I do whenever fishing a cable through some awkward path is to fish through a length of string at the same time.

That way if I ever want to run another cable along the same path I've already got a piece of string to use as a puller (and you can add some more string to the cable you're pulling through so that you've still got a puller string for next time if you need to)

As already mentioned, there's nothing wrong with cables under the van if protected by some split conduit or similar. I try to keep them as whole runs of cable if possible as it's joints that will be more prone to water / salt ingress. If I do need to join them then I'll get a proper waterproof connector (in the old days it was a 'chocolate block' connector and a glue gun to weatherproof it)

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I'm currently trying to get a cable through a 60cm section of flooring...other cables are there...but it's proving to be quite challenging...and to make things worse...I don't have a metal coat hanger..
Going to try and get a thin metal tube this morning.....
 
jumar said:
I'm currently trying to get a cable through a 60cm section of flooring...other cables are there...but it's proving to be quite challenging...and to make things worse...I don't have a metal coat hanger..
Going to try and get a thin metal tube this morning.....
Click to expand...
Something like these , I got mine from local tool store for a tenner , but Screwfix have them but think you are in Spain. Worked for me fishing cables front to back of my PVC.

 
Quick tip re rodding.
If you're ever at a festival check out the skips to see if anyone has dumped a pop up tent (the younger generation would rather dump them than take them home) and pull out the fiberglass rods that hold them up.
They're excellent for rodding jobs in the van and can be coiled up quite small.
 
I was going to mention this - I’ve used old sectional tent poles to thread mains cables under floors, not sure how they’d perform in the kind of spaces available here though.
 
Thanks for the tips. What I’m getting is a strong emphasis on not doing what I’m trying to do, which is fair enough.

Sometime after Globecar finished fitting the plastic walls and wooden cupboards, someone fitted string lights in the cupboards that can be turned on in groups (bedroom, lounge) with nearby switches. The cabling for these is behind the plastic walls and over the ceiling - so it CAN be done!

I’ve already tried a fibreglass cable puller, that got irretrievably stuck quite quickly. Stiff wire next, though I’ve ordered the sectional Faithfull kit from Screwfix as I find that brand to be pretty good.

Some mentioned pulling a cord through - absolutely! The old van has several cords (usually 4mm climbing rope) running under the floor, over the ceiling, and behind the cupboards and appliances.

As for underslinging - I can’t easily get under the van, unfortunately.
 
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The old spring type curtain rail our grans used on the net curtains is also great!

Be sure to use something well insulated. A marine installed I used who was one of the best had a nasty moment when his metal rod used to fish wires through contacted the pos and neg of a 600 amp hour battery. It was so much current the blade evaporated!

Tony
 
I got a usefull tip from the bloke fitting our fiber broadband.
When trying to fish a single wire through enclosed areas use a hollow plastic tube.
Get the tube through then feed the wire through the tube.
Then either leave the tube in place or pull it out in the direction of the wire.
Perfect for intended purpose of pulling delicate fiber cable through a house wall.
And he gave me a handful of tubes to boot.

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yeah - the plastic tube is really good especially when you're trying to pull through something textured (like split conduit!)
 
Mixyblob said:
Quick tip re rodding.
If you're ever at a festival check out the skips to see if anyone has dumped a pop up tent (the younger generation would rather dump them than take them home) and pull out the fiberglass rods that hold them up.
They're excellent for rodding jobs in the van and can be coiled up quite small.
Click to expand...
I'll have a look at the next Glastonbury 😄

Note to self... Don't be silly, at the next Glastonbury I'll be 74 years old..I go to bed at 10pm .

But I like music...but don't do much rodding these days..😎🇪🇦
 
jumar said:
I'm currently trying to get a cable through a 60cm section of flooring...other cables are there...but it's proving to be quite challenging...and to make things worse...I don't have a metal coat hanger..
Going to try and get a thin metal tube this morning.....
Click to expand...
I always find the plastic lid to 20mm plastic trunking to be great for fishing cables. Did watch a video of a house rewire recently where they were using little remote control mice on wheels to pull in the draw wires they were ingenious with a wheel arrangement to bump over obstacles. I bet they are not cheap and I wonder how many get stuck and left for someone to find in 50 years time.
 
jumar said:
I'm currently trying to get a cable through a 60cm section of flooring...other cables are there...but it's proving to be quite challenging...and to make things worse...I don't have a metal coat hanger..
Going to try and get a thin metal tube this morning.....
Click to expand...

If your ever in need again 🙂

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stewartwebr said:
I always find the plastic lid to 20mm plastic trunking to be great for fishing cables. Did watch a video of a house rewire recently where they were using little remote control mice on wheels to pull in the draw wires they were ingenious with a wheel arrangement to bump over obstacles. I bet they are not cheap and I wonder how many get stuck and left for someone to find in 50 years time.
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I'm working through a 12mm hole..🤔
 
rb62 said:
Got one of these as well,but I haven't found it yet 😀

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Ah yes, I have an endoscope as well - used to have one that displayed on my phone, that was awful. Now have an all-in-one my daughter bought me one Christmas, complete with sarcastic quotes on the box.
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CV20Bobby said:
Something like these , I got mine from local tool store for a tenner , but Screwfix have them but think you are in Spain. Worked for me fishing cables front to back of my PVC.

Click to expand...
I bought these - they did a fine job today, and I now have cord running from behind the control panel (above the hab door) to the rear right door pillar. For anyone wanting to try this route, you do need to go from rear to front (as I discovered).
I might see if I can pull the (phono-terminated) cables through, one at a time, though I am tempted by the idea of cutting then reattaching.
Next will be sorting out power for the cameras, (which aren’t powered via the long cables), and also for the display.



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Harry Harris said:
I bought these - they did a fine job today, and I now have cord running from behind the control panel (above the hab door) to the rear right door pillar. For anyone wanting to try this route, you do need to go from rear to front (as I discovered).
I might see if I can pull the (phono-terminated) cables through, one at a time, though I am tempted by the idea of cutting then reattaching.
Next will be sorting out power for the cameras, (which aren’t powered via the long cables), and also for the display.



View attachment 1131414

View attachment 1131415
Click to expand...
Actually, having thought about it, I could run a 12v feed from the front (same route along the side), then I can have one switch to turn on both cameras and display. I don’t want them on the ignition as I’d like the flexibility to run them when parked up.
 
After a pattern of being diverted from the van by social or house necessities, yesterday I managed to get all the cables into expanding sheaths (a bit tricky with 2x phono plus power into a 5m length), I've also threaded those cables through the side wall (where I left the cord), so now I need a dry day to fit the new brake light camera and sort out the wiring and power (Earth) there. I also got the power lead into the Electroblock 99 (I used the step/courtesy light 25A circuit as I want the cameras available when driving and when at rest, and all the spares are only powered when the 12v is on), sheathed it, and brought it under the floor, around the vehicle battery (under the insulation) and into the centre dash area.
Still to do: switch on the dash (I've posted about that in the Electrical forum), and wiring for the display (cue lots of fiddling around in the storage space above the front seats).
 
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Finally, it's all wired + working. Works even with the key out of the ignition and 12v hab off. Switches to cam #2 (reversing) when reverse selected on the gears (need ignition on for the signal).
That was a LOT of panels to clip off / unscrew, and several awkward earth points to drill. As usual, a full blow-by-blow account is available if anyone ever needs it.
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When I was working I used cable rods a lot I once got an earth bonding cable from the front door of a terraced house to the kitchen using them 12mt in all, that's a lot of floorboards that didn't need to come up. But once when trying to draw a cable under a floor I gave the rods a whip to the right and the last 5 came off. I expect they're still under that floor now :doh: I had to buy another set.
 
Odd-no-more said:
When I was working I used cable rods a lot I once got an earth bonding cable from the front door of a terraced house to the kitchen using them 12mt in all, that's a lot of floorboards that didn't need to come up. But once when trying to draw a cable under a floor I gave the rods a whip to the right and the last 5 came off. I expect they're still under that floor now :doh: I had to buy another set.
Click to expand...
Were they the type that screw together?
I find the biggest issue with them is the metal connectors can catch on (eg) bulkhead brackets. I have a couple of sections stuck in the van already, guess they'll be there forever.
Talking of which, when I was trying to get wires up from the top centre of the windscreen to the storage area above the cab, I found two plastic hangers! They must have been part of the previous owner's packing, and slid down. Pity as I couldn't get any rods up or down, and brought the cables from the display along the front to the windscreen pillar.
 

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