Insulation that isn't there

[JamesT@Dundee]

We got our Autocruise Select 4 years ago and have used it for several cold trips (below zero C). When repairing the kitchen tap (frost damage from last winter) I checked on the insulation behind the sink (there was none - just direct to metal hull). The sink sits directly above the gas cupboard (steel box) with no insulation either.
I then checked the floor level cupboard (removed the back panels) - and, there's no insulation at one part (photo). So this is where the ice cold air comes from and flows into the habitation area through the gap at the bottom of the cupboard. Wheel arch has a very thin bit

of carpet, but I've no idea of it's insulating properties. Some insulation above wheel arch but how effect with bare metal to the right.
Does anyone know if there is any reason why I can't place insulation over the bare metal area? Is the some reason (apart from cost saving) that it wasn't put there by Swift to start with?

 

[dash300]

I can't think of a reason why not. I think I would be doing the same. Shoddy as their wiring nest!

 

[JamesT@Dundee]

Yes. The wiring will get a bit of tidying up as well !

 

[jezport]

You need to avoid any insulation that can hold water like rockwool. Globecar use a self adhesive foam layer.

 

[JamesT@Dundee]

Thanks - yes, I've had a look through the various options and advantages/disadvantages. I'll check out the foam layer.

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[autorouter]

If you're using foam, make sure it's 'closed cell' foam, which has the foam bubbles all separate so that the air and water vapour can't percolate through. Otherwise there will be a condensation layer inside, in the middle of the foam, which in very cold weather can freeze.

Alternatively that shiny metallised bubble wrap insulation is good, and is non-permeable.

 

[kevenh]

Alternatively that shiny metallised bubble wrap insulation is good, and is non-permeable.

Like but not exclusively https://www.wickes.co.uk/ThermaWrap-Self-Adhesive-Garage-Door-Insulation-Roll---750mm-x-8m/p/250158 ?

 

[jongood]

I was recently helping a chap with a problem with an auto trail low profile and was very surprised that it had absolutely no insulation in the fibreglass moulding between the wall and roof sections and apparently not much in the front overcab bit.

 

[Mikeco]

Very poor and you will get condensation where the metal hits warm air. It amazes me how these so called professional converters get away with it. My own self build took me 3 months with the first month spent entirely on insulation making sure that no bare metal ever met warm air including inside of all the ribs.

 

[Badknee]

That’s terrible but seeing it is a Swift from your post I’m not surprised at all after helping my friend rebuild his Kontiki last summer.

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[Skyway]

They scrim and save these builder and charge a small futune

 

[Jamesh]

I'd look at multifoil insulation too, foil / synthetic / foil combined.

 

[mitzimad]

black bin liner stuffed with recycled plastic lagging from b and q would be my coice in that spot

 

[Minxy]

Even for Swift that is shockingly bad! I'd be very tempted to write to their CEO with photos and tell them how crap it is and also let other forums know too.

 

[CamperManLez]

Look at ‘kiravans‘ on the internet for closed cell foil backed insulation, they use it on smaller camper vans. It works well but do not rely on the self adhesive properties. Buy the high temp carpet adhesive spray they sell and apply that to the van wall It will not come off with that applied.
its 7mm thick and is easy to shape using large scissors as it looks like you have awkward places to fix. Dodo mat is the same and available in thicker sheets.
As for your Van, they are all poor quality these days and not worth the money they want for them.

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[CamperManLez]

And sorry to say this but it looks like they could not be bothered to finish the wiring as well.

 

[jongood]

Even for Swift that is shockingly bad! I'd be very tempted to write to their CEO with photos and tell them how crap it is and also let other forums know too.

He will have a PC so he must know by now

 

[Ian Bosman]

We got our Autocruise Select 4 years ago and have used it for several cold trips (below zero C). When repairing the kitchen tap (frost damage from last winter) I checked on the insulation behind the sink (there was none - just direct to metal hull). The sink sits directly above the gas cupboard (steel box) with no insulation either.
I then checked the floor level cupboard (removed the back panels) - and, there's no insulation at one part (photo). So this is where the ice cold air comes from and flows into the habitation area through the gap at the bottom of the cupboard. Wheel arch has a very thin bit View attachment 576606 of carpet, but I've no idea of it's insulating properties. Some insulation above wheel arch but how effect with bare metal to the right.
Does anyone know if there is any reason why I can't place insulation over the bare metal area? Is the some reason (apart from cost saving) that it wasn't put there by Swift to start with?

You do not find that birds nest in my German made van, neat and tidy is the name ofd the game for them. All those connectors are a recipe for spurious electrical faults.

 

[Bubba]

Looks like a snakes wedding.

 

[rod_vw]

I have used Thinsulate in all of my PVC conversions but it's not easy to obtain and certainly not cheap. It has the advantage of offering both sound and thermal insulation.

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[ronecc1]

You need to have a look at some YouTube videos, to see how lnsulation should be done. Vanlife, I think, is one. A couple in Czech' who are converting a van. He is a joiner so does have a big workshop. He explains how to insulate every area and what to use.

 

[SpeedyDux]

Look at ‘kiravans‘ on the internet for closed cell foil backed insulation, they use it on smaller camper vans. It works well but do not rely on the self adhesive properties. Buy the high temp carpet adhesive spray they sell and apply that to the van wall It will not come off with that applied.
its 7mm thick and is easy to shape using large scissors as it looks like you have awkward places to fix. Dodo mat is the same and available in thicker sheets.
As for your Van, they are all poor quality these days and not worth the money they want for them.

Every time I have a peek behind the cabinets and trim in my Rapido PVC I see thermal insulation. The build sheet refers to areas behind door cards where they added insulation. I have never seen any condensation (except the windscreen, if I haven't put on the external silver screen). The European PVC converters seem to be more thorough. Wiring and pipework is also neater.

Whether it is worth the money the manufacturers want is a moot question although I expect the resale value will hold up well because it is a brand with a good reputation.

 

[L' Hobo]

The only thing to remember is not to cover the gas escape holes in the floor, if there is any.

 

[Graham Mew]

We got our Autocruise Select 4 years ago and have used it for several cold trips (below zero C). When repairing the kitchen tap (frost damage from last winter) I checked on the insulation behind the sink (there was none - just direct to metal hull). The sink sits directly above the gas cupboard (steel box) with no insulation either.
I then checked the floor level cupboard (removed the back panels) - and, there's no insulation

We got our Autocruise Select 4 years ago and have used it for several cold trips (below zero C). When repairing the kitchen tap (frost damage from last winter) I checked on the insulation behind the sink (there was none - just direct to metal hull). The sink sits directly above the gas cupboard (steel box) with no insulation either.
I then checked the floor level cupboard (removed the back panels) - and, there's no insulation at one part (photo). So this is where the ice cold air comes from and flows into the habitation area through the gap at the bottom of the cupboard. Wheel arch has a very thin bit View attachment 576606 of carpet, but I've no idea of it's insulating properties. Some insulation above wheel arch but how effect with bare metal to the right.
Does anyone know if there is any reason why I can't place insulation over the bare metal area? Is the some reason (apart from cost saving) that it wasn't put there by Swift to start with?

We got our Autocruise Select 4 years ago and have used it for several cold trips (below zero C). When repairing the kitchen tap (frost damage from last winter) I checked on the insulation behind the sink (there was none - just direct to metal hull). The sink sits directly above the gas cupboard (steel box) with no insulation either.
I then checked the floor level cupboard (removed the back panels) - and, there's no insulation at one part (photo). So this is where the ice cold air comes from and flows into the habitation area through the gap at the bottom of the cupboard. Wheel arch has a very thin bit View attachment 576606 of carpet, but I've no idea of it's insulating properties. Some insulation above wheel arch but how effect with bare metal to the right.
Does anyone know if there is any reason why I can't place insulation over the bare metal area? Is the some reason (apart from cost saving) that it wasn't put there by Swift to start with?

Every time I have a peek behind the cabinets and trim in my Rapido PVC I see thermal insulation. The build sheet refers to areas behind door cards where they added insulation. I have never seen any condensation (except the windscreen, if I haven't put on the external silver screen). The European PVC converters seem to be more thorough. Wiring and pipework is also neater.

Whether it is worth the money the manufacturers want is a moot question although I expect the resale value will hold up well because it is a brand with a good reputation.

I spent two years researching and viewing the converters of pvc seeing what insulation they had, this was one of the most important items I felt. My conclusions was ‘you get what you pay for’ This is provided by mainly the smaller independent pvc companies. I chose a IH motorhome after spending two days at their factory seeing and interrogating how they are made. I now have a 6 m VW Crafter N Class and over the moon with it.

 

[L' Hobo]

Hi Jim, lots of multiple postings appearing this morning, does the site have a problem??

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[Jim]

Hi Jim, lots of multiple postings appearing this morning, does the site have a problem??

Not sure what is going on.

 

[Minxy]

Hi Jim, lots of multiple postings appearing this morning, does the site have a problem??

Not sure what is going on.

"It's the forum Jim but not as we know it!"

 

[Platelet]

Look at ‘kiravans‘ on the internet for closed cell foil backed insulation, they use it on smaller camper vans. It works well but do not rely on the self adhesive properties. Buy the high temp carpet adhesive spray they sell and apply that to the van wall It will not come off with that applied.
its 7mm thick and is easy to shape using large scissors as it looks like you have awkward places to fix. Dodo mat is the same and available in thicker sheets.
As for your Van, they are all poor quality these days and not worth the money they want for them.

I can vouch for this as it’s what I’ve used in my Land Rover Defender and it works very well. All I can say is that if you are going to use contact adhesive make sure it’s lined up well. Don’t ask me how I know!

 

[Steve and Denise]

We had a Rapido 10001 a class and had a leak above the cab so I removed the roof section there was absolutely no insulation fitted to the grp roof
Some time later bought a aclass Hymer and when fitting dead locks to the doors panels removed again absolutely no insulation whatsoever
I think they are all the same

 

[L' Hobo]

We had a Rapido 10001 a class and had a leak above the cab so I removed the roof section there was absolutely no insulation fitted to the grp roof
Some time later bought a aclass Hymer and when fitting dead locks to the doors panels removed again absolutely no insulation whatsoever
I think they are all the same

Yet another reason for buying a PVC, my Murvi roof is insulated!