inline fuse

sean n maggie

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looked through loads of forums but cant find the one i need,,,,,what size inline fuse will i need for my inverter please? its a 2000w inverter...
 

Techno

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200amp should suffice unless you're going to hammer it
Of course your connecting cable needs to be capable of this at least
 

Tootles

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A 100 amp fuse should be adequate. However, many modern inverters break down their fuse requirements internally, so you don't require an external fuse. Check the inverters bumph. I bought a Ring 3000w inverter a couple of years ago for our boat, no external fuse required.

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sean n maggie

sean n maggie

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just re read all instructions and it does not mention putting in a inline fuse, just says connect to battery,,,,but guess its safer to put one in,,having trouble finding a place to get the fuse plus holder from though,,,,any ideas ?
 

Tootles

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NOT AN EXPERT.......But, I have been told that there is now no more need to fuse the battery supply lines to an inverter. My old solid state required fusing, (150amp), but this new one says no need to externally fuse the 12volt supply.
 

Techno

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100 amp only gives you 1200 watt with no allowance for surge so you might as well buy an inverter much smaller lol

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Tootles

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100 amp only gives you 1200 watt with no allowance for surge so you might as well buy an inverter much smaller lol

Yes, but would you really want to paste a single battery past 100 amp?
 

Tootles

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If I only had a single battery I would not have a 2k inverter
I have 500ah on my inverter

Right, but the OP didnt mention his battery capacity. And anyway, what the hell would you need a 2k inverter for?? (in a MH) Even a washing machine motor only draws 800w. If you want to run say a kettle at 1500w, surely much better a genny?? As you know, you get nowt for nowt from an inverter.

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sean n maggie

sean n maggie

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got two 110 batteries, and the inverter will only be used once every couple of days for wifeys hairdryer,,i know its only going to be used around 5 minutes max and a lot of messing putting it in,,but if it keeps wifey quiet then its worth it,,,;)
 

Tootles

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So your pulling about 1200w plus start up surge.

Still not sure about an external fuse.
 

hilldweller

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but this new one says no need to externally fuse the 12volt supply.

Then it's WRONG.

The fuse does NOT protect the appliance, it protects the cable going to it. If that shorts out you'll be very glad you had the fuse mounted next to the battery.

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Tootles

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Then it's WRONG.

The fuse does NOT protect the appliance, it protects the cable going to it. If that shorts out you'll be very glad you had the fuse mounted next to the battery.

Can you enlarge on that Brian?? Mine came complete with 2 mtrs of what I can only describe as truck duty multi strand heavy jump cables, ready crimped.
 

pappajohn

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Then it's WRONG.

The fuse does NOT protect the appliance, it protects the cable going to it. If that shorts out you'll be very glad you had the fuse mounted next to the battery.
You beat me to it Brian.....only a fool or a tightwad would use cable capable of carrying 200amps+ and not use a fuse.

As for sourcing a fuse and carrier.....any motoring shop which deals in radio amplifiers (almost all of them) will stock a good selection of high amp fuses.....but they dont come cheap.
 

pappajohn

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Can you enlarge on that Brian?? Mine came complete with 2 mtrs of what I can only describe as truck duty multi strand heavy jump cables, ready crimped.
And if the live conductor should become shorted to earth ? (Trapped or chaffed on a metal edge)

That would take seconds to glow red hot and cause a fire if a fuse isnt fitted.

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Tootles

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And if the live conductor should become shorted to earth ? (Trapped or chaffed on a metal edge)

That would take seconds to glow red hot and cause a fire if a fuse isnt fitted.

And if, (as is much more likely), I dropped a spanner across the battery terminals?? What fuse protection has the positive lead to the solenoid/starter motor?
 

pappajohn

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And if, (as is much more likely), I dropped a spanner across the battery terminals?? What fuse protection has the positive lead to the solenoid/starter motor?
A spanner dropped is a shite mechanic and cant be helped. :doh:
A really shite mechanic would grab it to pull it off.
Starter cable has a selonoid in circuit....let the key go, no leccy. :RollEyes:

Some things just cant be helped, but theres more chance of an accessory cable being badly routed than a factory installed cable.
 
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sean n maggie

sean n maggie

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You beat me to it Brian.....only a fool or a tightwad would use cable capable of carrying 200amps+ and not use a fuse.

As for sourcing a fuse and carrier.....any motoring shop which deals in radio amplifiers (almost all of them) will stock a good selection of high amp fuses.....but they dont come cheap.

ordered a fuse plus holder should get monday,,,better to be safe than sorry,,,,(y)

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hilldweller

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Can you enlarge on that Brian??.

No point in repeating what PJ has said, it's all about short circuits and preventing a fire.

Good point with the starter circuit. I don't know but it could be the lug on the battery cable is just weak enough to melt and act as a fuse before the wiring catches fire.

I've a 140A MIG welder, they are about 12V, a big inverter takes more current, have you seen what 140A does to metal in seconds ?

Dropping a tool across the battery. It's normal to have insulation covering the terminals.
 

Tootles

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A spanner dropped is a shite mechanic and cant be helped. :doh:
A really shite mechanic would grab it to pull it off.
Starter cable has a selonoid in circuit....let the key go, no leccy. :RollEyes:

Some things just cant be helped, but theres more chance of an accessory cable being badly routed than a factory installed cable.

A starter supply cable has NO solenoid in circuit, John. The cable goes directly to the motor, itself earthed out by the engine. The solenoid is activated by a key, as you say, which energises an electro-magnet, to throw a copper buzz-bar against the main battery lead contact, and hence to the motor. High ampage shorts can develop with cracked insulation, or a pitted and sticking buzz-bar.

Please see below a picture of an inverter supplied for ready use, with croc-clips supplied for attachment to a battery,......But no fuse, nor fusible link??? These are CE approved appliances John, so what gives here???
inverter.JPG

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Techno

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Even the 300 watt pure sine sterling I bought and sold to a member came with no fuse inline but sterling protected themselves in the instructions and of course I fitted one.

The 1800 watt sterling pro power also has no fuse on the supplied undersized cables but they recommend a 250amp even though the cable is only 21mm or 4awg Oh Please!

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Tootles

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That's not intended as a permanent unit, something like running a power tool for a while on site in my opinion.

So there is no risk involved in connecting an inverter, as long as the connection is not 'permanent'? I think you will find that these inverters are used for many hours at a time, mostly for watching televisions.

My experience of these is that they cover their arse in the instructions by
recommending a fuse be fitted

And so, their is no direct danger. Of course, the sensible solution, if unsure, would be to fit a fuse or a link, just for piece of mind, however, a cable from a vehicle battery to the engine is permanent, and is not fused, so would you agree that fitting a fuse to a properly installed inverter is not a genuine necessity?.
 

pappajohn

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A starter supply cable has NO solenoid in circuit, John. The cable goes directly to the motor, itself earthed out by the engine. The solenoid is activated by a key, as you say, which energises an electro-magnet, to throw a copper buzz-bar against the main battery lead contact, and hence to the motor. High ampage shorts can develop with cracked insulation, or a pitted and sticking buzz-bar.

Please see below a picture of an inverter supplied for ready use, with croc-clips supplied for attachment to a battery,......But no fuse, nor fusible link??? These are CE approved appliances John, so what gives here??? View attachment 36705
Self taught mechanic of 45 years experience...i know how a starter works. :Smile:
The reference to a solenoid was a tongue in cheek comment as the solenoid would be at the wrong end of the starter cable anyway, unless you have an old car with an inertia starter when it could be anywhere in the starter cable.

Maybe CE approved but that doesnt mean a fuse has to be fitted or supplied by the manufacturer, merely that the unit has met CE approval standards for the intended purpose.
no law says its compulsory for an individual to fit a fuse, but common sense says you should.

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Tootles

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Self taught mechanic of 45 years experience...i know how a starter works. :Smile:
The reference to a solenoid was a tongue in cheek comment.

Maybe CE approved but that doesnt mean a fuse has to be fitted or supplied by the manufacturer, merely that the unit has met CE approval standards for the intended purpose.
no law says its compulsory for an individual to fit a fuse, but common sense says you should.

Right, thanks for that.(y)

It would be great then if you could retract this statement, aimed (loosely) at my previous post......

[QUOTEonly a fool or a tightwad would use cable capable of carrying 200amps+ and not use a fuse.][/QUOTE]

I don't consider myself fitting in either category mate, nice if you could acknowledge that. :)
 

jhorsf

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My Fiat has a fuse protecting the starter cable

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