Hymer rooflight shaft leaking

[bornagain]

Hi,

We have a 2007 Hymer B544 and when it is parked dead level and we have a lot of rain, water seeps down the shaft of the rooflight opening handle. It only occurs when a giant puddle accumulates on the roof

I assume that as the shaft of the rooflight handle goes through the roof there must be some kind of seal.

Google does not help, and Brownhills say that there is no seal on their system.

I have ordered some star washers and when they arrive I will remove the plastic skylight cover and have a look at the point where the shaft comes through the roof, but if somebody knows what I will find, and even better - where to get a new one then I would be delighted.

Any offers ?

Regards
P

 

[funflair]

By shaft I am assuming winding handle? no that will not go to the roof light to allow a leak so I would say that the roofltight wants removing and resealing.

If I am on the wrong track maybe a photo

 

[tonyidle]

The rooflight on my Hymer had the entire lift mechanism exposed on the roof outside the frame. It was under the dome edge. If yours is the same it will be very easy for water to pool on the mechanism. The rooflight was screwed to the roof - an attachment method I hate so I removed the whole thing, cut a larger hole, and fitted a Heki.

Hymer mechanism:

 

[bigalw35]

Hi, sorry I cant help with the leak (I've got Merc Hymer B 680, I had to remove the bathroom skylight, it was full of dirt ????? when we brought it, got the press on star washers, sorted (I thought ?) this year it's just as dirty again, so I've just brought some "R" or "P" clips, I intend to drill the shafts and use them instead, as it seem it'll be off again next year, I put the stars on again with a "G" clamp and a socket, good luck.

I also brought some spray seal (which I haven't tried yet)

<Broken link removed>

a mates tried it and he say it's good, but its more for a permanent seal

 

[bigalw35]

The rooflight on my Hymer had the entire lift mechanism exposed on the roof outside the frame. It was under the dome edge. If yours is the same it will be very easy for water to pool on the mechanism. The rooflight was screwed to the roof - an attachment method I hate so I removed the whole thing, cut a larger hole, and fitted a Heki.

Hymer mechanism:

View attachment 485677

sorry but what a "heki"

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[bornagain]

I have attached photos from the inside (after I had removed the trim) and one of the roof showing the mechanism.
I assume that as the shaft passes throught the roof there is some kind of seal, but when the MH is dead flat the rain water level gets to high and comes over the top.

 

[funflair]

I have attached photos from the inside (after I had removed the trim) and one of the roof showing the mechanism.
I assume that as the shaft passes throught the roof there is some kind of seal, but when the MH is dead flat the rain water level gets to high and comes over the top.

OK I was on the wrong track

 

[CazPaul]

What bad design that is, I would take the lot off and fit a Heki.

 

[Wagoneer]

About 10 years ago I did some maintenance work on the lifting mechanism of my Hymer 544.

I seem to recall that the vertical shaft had a rubber O-ring to prevent the passage of water. The O-ring probably needs either replacing or lubricating with olive oil.

Edit: you don't need to remove the skylight to remove the vertical shaft. Just wind up the skylight and support it on blocks of wood. Then detach the operating rods. This should allow you to remove the vertical shaft for inspection.

 

[tonyidle]

What bad design that is, I would take the lot off and fit a Heki.

Exactly what I said to myself when mine leaked (though not through the shaft hole).

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[Larrynwin]

I had a roof leak around the large roof light on my 03 Reg B544 which at the time was approx 14 years old.
The sealant applied when fitted hardens and cracks with age and the totally flat roof of the Hymer encourages puddling when parked perfectly level.
I cleaned and scraped off all the visible sealant and resealed with Dicor self levelling roof sealant which solved the problem.
This issue has been discussed on here before and some removed the roof light cleaned and resealed which is the better option.
Unfortunately the design of the roof would have been better if it was slightly convex to prevent puddling.

 

[Figaro]

I have exactly the same problem in heavy rain if the van is dead level. (B544)
Fortunarely it`s on a slope on the drive and if I`m using it in rain I make sure not to be level.
I`d be interested to know if you find there is an O ring seal that can be replaced without removing the whole unit

 

[bornagain]

Update - Solved

This explanation may seem a little complicated but it really is dead simple.

I have removed the opening/closing mechanism from the roof and have taken a couple of photos to explain the problem.

The angle frame strip (2) is screwed and sealed onto the roof.

The shaft (3) that connects the white gear (5) down to the winder inside the motorhome rotates within a fixed tube (1) that is welded to the angle frame (2)

The white gear (5) is pinned (4) onto the shaft (3)

As the angle frame (2) and fixed tube(1) is sealed to the motorhome body, rain water cannot penetrate the roof unless the water level on the roof builds up to higher than the pinned joint (4) which connects the white gear to shaft (3) as the pinned joint is hollow and would allow water to fall down the centre of the assemby and appear within the motorhome.

There is a vertical line drawn on the the fixed tube (1) and shaft (3) on the first picture, the second picture is taken after the shaft (3) has been wound to simulate the rooflight being opened, you can see that their is now an offset in the vertical line to illustrate that the two pieces of metal are not fixed together.

The root of the problem on my motorhome was the sealant between angle frame (2) and the roof had dried out/aged and hence water was getting into the gap and running down the outside of fixed tube (1) then running down the shaft (3) and appearing inside the motorhome.

 

[Baldeagle7470]

Wonderful info and pics,thank you.
I have exactly the same problem.
At the moment I am using an idea from JockandRita who suggested just putting it up on the yellow ramps,level adjuster.
This is working but will use your fix when able to get on the roof,thanks again.

 

[DavidG58]

We currently have this problem, we can overcome the leaking problem when stored by unlevelling with our E&P jacks, but that’s not good on site in use

my secondary problem is the handle / shaft is too stiff to easily turn and I predict yet another broken handle anytime soon any body think why it should be stiff? I have cleared as much leaf debris as I can get to from inside, but don’t think this should stop it turning .

I still have two spare handles as I have broken two already , another poor design feature, plastic handle all dependent on a metal pin in a plastic housing.

I think I will look at total replacement , does the Heki roof light come with a lighting option, our roof light has the lighting for the table area built in

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[Wagoneer]

My winding handle became stiff which was the only reason I gave the system an overhaul as mentioned in post #9.

I seem to remember (long time ago) the vertical shaft needed cleaning and lubricating. I probably also lubricated the joints in the lifting mech on the roof.

If you isolate the gearbox from the roof lifting mech - this should give you a better idea of what is causing the resistance. First try the winding handle for signs of resistance, then manually lifting the skylight up and down. Remember, the lifting mech on the other side from the gearbox is just a dummy system. Any resistance in the dummy system could amplify problems further down the line IMO.

 

[bornagain]

There are quite a few point on the mechanism that might have dried out and require lubrication.
It is pretty straightforward to take it to bits, find out which part is the problem then clean and lube all the bits - I would imagine that this will solve your problem - and it will only take a few hours - make sure you have some 8mm star washers to fix it back together. They are dirt cheap on Ebay.

 

[CazPaul]

We currently have this problem, we can overcome the leaking problem when stored by unlevelling with our E&P jacks, but that’s not good on site in use

my secondary problem is the handle / shaft is too stiff to easily turn and I predict yet another broken handle anytime soon any body think why it should be stiff? I have cleared as much leaf debris as I can get to from inside, but don’t think this should stop it turning .

I still have two spare handles as I have broken two already , another poor design feature, plastic handle all dependent on a metal pin in a plastic housing.

I think I will look at total replacement , does the Heki roof light come with a lighting option, our roof light has the lighting for the table area built in


View attachment 488205


View attachment 488206

With our Concorde David I just disconnected the lights and fitted a heki that you push up, I like the easy option.

 

[DavidG58]

With our Concorde David I just disconnected the lights and fitted a heki that you push up, I like the easy option.

my minor issue for us would be the roof light is 500 x 800 ish but in mounted lengthways , not sure if the Heki would take the wind force on to the non hinged side

have found a new winding mechanism on eBay from Brownhills, have ordered that will see if that is something I can fit when it arrives (I doubt it ) where are the fix it meets when you need them

 

[tonyidle]

my minor issue for us would be the roof light is 500 x 800 ish but in mounted lengthways , not sure if the Heki would take the wind force on to the non hinged side

have found a new winding mechanism on eBay from Brownhills, have ordered that will see if that is something I can fit when it arrives (I doubt it ) where are the fix it meets when you need them

I can't remember where I saw it (maybe in on line Heki installation instructions) but I had the same concern so confirmed that lengthways is OK. Lights are easily fitted to plywood, covered in lining cloth, and spaced 12 to 15 mm off the ceiling. I made my plywood crescent shaped.

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[DavidG58]

Bit of follow up on my sticking gears

I found the Brownhills , had a mechanism for sale on eBay, so for £90 I am going to see if I can change that

this is what I have bought, hoping to be able to remove it from inside without taking the cover off, but that might be ambitious

I can’t easily see how the current one fixes to my roof at present

doesn’t appear to be a seal round the spindle , no wonder it leaks as the spindle has to spin to work the gears I guess I will need to avoid sealants, although under the fixing plate should be OK

already thinking I should maybe find a ‘man who can’ not seen Terry for a while

 

[SIFTA SAM]

Bit of follow up on my sticking gears

I found the Brownhills , had a mechanism for sale on eBay, so for £90 I am going to see if I can change that

View attachment 489536
View attachment 489537

this is what I have bought, hoping to be able to remove it from inside without taking the cover off, but that might be ambitious

I can’t easily see how the current one fixes to my roof at present

doesn’t appear to be a seal round the spindle , no wonder it leaks as the spindle has to spin to work the gears I guess I will need to avoid sealants, although under the fixing plate should be OK

already thinking I should maybe find a ‘man who can’ not seen Terry for a while

My mechanism, if I remember correctly, was attaced to the roof by six/eight screws and sealant,
The sealant had been used around the central section only.
I refitted the plate but used sealant over its entire length, because (as I found), over several years the plate surface that is in contact with the roof can start to rust and can cause pitting of the roof structure.

 

[DavidG58]

Much quicker update than predicted

as well as the gear mechanism I also bought a can of silicone spray, having been guilty of applying standard WD40

applied a liberal dose yesterday , but it barely had any impact on the stiffness

came out today to open it abd look for the fixings, it went up as easily as an easy thing

just applied another dose of silicone spray and am doing the other skylights , very impressed, I bought a different brand to WD40 to reduce my confusion

now have a spare winding mechanism , just in case

edit- just hope the macerator upgrade goes as easily this afternoon

 

[Terry]

Hi David, only just seen your message Don't use WD on anything you need to keep moving( great for release) it acts as a degreaser and removes any lube that's on your gearing .Always use Silicon, graphite powder or spray grease

 

[DavidG58]

Hi David, only just seen your message Don't use WD on anything you need to keep moving( great for release) it acts as a degreaser and removes any lube that's on your gearing .Always use Silicon, graphite powder or spray grease

thanks Terry, you get another mention in my own thread in similar subject

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[bornagain]

We are away in the motorhome and last night the weather gods tested my work - the proof of the pudding is in the eating - success, water no longer leaks down the shaft.

 

[bigalw35]

Hi, sorry I cant help with the leak (I've got Merc Hymer B 680, I had to remove the bathroom skylight, it was full of dirt ????? when we brought it, got the press on star washers, sorted (I thought ?) this year it's just as dirty again, so I've just brought some "R" or "P" clips, I intend to drill the shafts and use them instead, as it seem it'll be off again next year, I put the stars on again with a "G" clamp and a socket, good luck.

I also brought some spray seal (which I haven't tried yet)

<Broken link removed>

a mates tried it and he say it's good, but its more for a permanent seal

now perfect I used the "R" clips, again perfect

 

[bigalw35]

Bit of follow up on my sticking gears

I found the Brownhills , had a mechanism for sale on eBay, so for £90 I am going to see if I can change that

View attachment 489536
View attachment 489537

this is what I have bought, hoping to be able to remove it from inside without taking the cover off, but that might be ambitious

I can’t easily see how the current one fixes to my roof at present

doesn’t appear to be a seal round the spindle , no wonder it leaks as the spindle has to spin to work the gears I guess I will need to avoid sealants, although under the fixing plate should be OK

already thinking I should maybe find a ‘man who can’ not seen Terry for a while

Many thanks again for your informative post, i removed both of my roof light mechanisms today, one was a little rusty, cleaned both and applied silicone grease to both, reinstalled both, now they are perfect

 

[DavidG58]

Many thanks again for your informative post, i removed both of my roof light mechanisms today, one was a little rusty, cleaned both and applied silicone grease to both, reinstalled both, now they are perfect

that’s good, did you remove the plastic skylight or was there enough access from inside?
We have definitely got a leak down our shaft so need to reseal the winding mechanism , hoping to apply mastic to both sides without taking off the skylight

 

[bigalw35]

that’s good, did you remove the plastic skylight or was there enough access from inside?
We have definitely got a leak down our shaft so need to reseal the winding mechanism , hoping to apply mastic to both sides without taking off the skylight

Hi David, no, I did not remove the skylight, I managed to do it (just about) with a dumpy Phillips screwdriver and a spanner, I removed all the winder mechanism, washed all the parts in petrol, dried and relubed with silicone grease (as I had it), re-installed both of them, now perfect, good luck with yours
AL
The rubber seals in mine were ok, so I did not replace them, but they are only the small rubber ring/seals you can get in the eBay kits

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