How to power off 240V supply?

[acropolis22]

Obviously, I can just disconnect the EHU. But is there a default way to power off 240V without disconnecting? I can't try this as I'm not at the van, but if I throw the main breaker does that cut off 240V and also all 12V?

 

[pappajohn]

Yes, turn off the main breaker in your 230v fusebox.
It will be the highest amp breaker at one end or the other.

 

[autorouter]

If your mains box has a breaker with a 'Test' button, pressing that ought to disconnect the whole mains supply. In doing so it will turn off the mains charger for the 12V battery. But it won't switch off the 12V. Motorhomes are designed to function perfectly well without any mains connection, so there will be a separate switch to turn off the 12V power.

The test button will trigger the breaker to the 'OFF' position (ie down), so you can turn the mains back on just by flipping the switch up.

 

[RobbyMClark]

You could also flip the switch at the hook up post, easier to get to than mine in the van.

 

[acropolis22]

Why are there two more breakers to the right of the main switch? I can't find any documentation telling me what they do. Is that going to be specific to Pilote, or is that common to most motorhomes? Don't have access right now, so I can't flip them off to see what happens. Can anyone shed any light?

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[xsparks]

They are the protection for individual circuits. Same as domestic supplies.

 

[acropolis22]

They are the protection for individual circuits. Same as domestic supplies.

Well, I'd got that far....... So, it's not standard? I'll just have to experiment?

 

[autorouter]

The switch on the left is an RCD (Residual Current Device). It detects any imbalance between the outgoing and returning electric current, and if it's more than 30mA it trips. It protects against electric shock. It is does not protect against excessive current (amps). It has a 'Test' button. The '25A' shows it is OK to wire into circuits of up to 25A, it's not a trip limit.

The two switches on the right are MCBs (Miniature Circuit Breakers). If the current exceeds the rated amps, either slowly building up or a sudden burst, it will trip. It doesn't protect against electric shock. The 'C16' shows it has a 16A limit.

I don't know exactly why there are two, probably one is for the heater/water heater and fridge, and the other for the sockets.

 

[Ian Bosman]

Just had a look at mine, having had an interesting time locating my keys which turned up on the clothes dryer inside some pants left drying - SWMBO had asked me to clear the dry stuff and one was extra heavy (please no crude jokes on that one)! Anyway, my set up, standard CBE has a test button (yes it works OK) and 2 breakers, i assume the 13 amp sockets are on one and the other is for the fridge and/or anything else needing to be isolated. So no breaker for the entire setup, probably assumed that whichever Circuit is overloaded it will "break".

 

[pappajohn]

Well, I'd got that far....... So, it's not standard? I'll just have to experiment?

Yes, it is standard.
As said, one will be sockets and maybe charger and one for fridge/boiler etc
Unless you're working on a circuit, in which case it needs turning off, it doesn't matter which does what.
Why the installers can take a few minutes to label them is a mystery.
If there's an overload fault one will trip while the other won't.

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[acropolis22]

Yes, it is standard.
As said, one will be sockets and maybe charger and one for fridge/boiler etc
Unless you're working on a circuit, in which case it needs turning off, it doesn't matter which does what.
Why the installers can take a few minutes to label them is a mystery.
If there's an overload fault one will trip while the other won't.

Thanks to everyone for the useful info. I plan to take 10 minutes to check what each MCB is isolating and label them......

 

[autorouter]

Anyway, my set up, standard CBE has a test button (yes it works OK) and 2 breakers, i assume the 13 amp sockets are on one and the other is for the fridge and/or anything else needing to be isolated. So no breaker for the entire setup, probably assumed that whichever Circuit is overloaded it will "break".

There needs to be a single switch to shut off all 240V power. If all the power goes through the RCD first, then to the MCBs, then switching off the RCD will turn off the whole 240V supply. So no need for an extra main switch.

In a house with two or more RCDs that isn't true, Since you need a single switch to isolate the 240V, a main switch is used.