how to fit a cross member replacement
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jollyrodger
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On what?
Carol
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- Oct 2, 2007
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- 18 years s Motorhome (33years caravans)
Hello Welcome to Fun what Motorhome do you have and Which base vehicle
Here’s one for a Peugeot chassis,
Well here we are getting ready for the MOT due at the end of July.
Looking over my van I found the front cross member would not pass an MOT. About 18months ago I found the cross member somewhat worse for wear and only just passed its MOT at that time. Knowing I would need to do something with the cross member if I was to retain the van I advertise through one of those autospares internet sections for a second hand cross member and obtained one at about £35 delivered. This was kept in 'stock' for about 12 months until this July when I was forced, by its condition, to change the member for the MOT. This has now been completed with not too much difficulty, below, for others that are in a similar situation, I will discribe the events.
Firstly you will need to check your cross member for excessive corrosion, in my case a small hole appeared at the nearside end of the member and put the 'kiss of death' on the unit. I then took out of 'stock' the unit purchased about 18mths ago and coated the edges with 'Hammerite' where some surface rust was evident.Then I lifted the front of the van with levelling blocks, about 4", so I'm now on my way.
Firstly one needs to gather all the gear necessary to carry out the operation.
1. Blocks to catch each end of the member
2. 18mm and 17mm sockets with a large socket bar to undo 6 bolts holding the member in place plus the one single bolt holding the plastic cover on the off side, no need to take off the cover, just move it to one side slightly to get at the member bolt.
3. Remove cables from clips on top of the member
4. Fit a support, in my case a 2" wooden pole, across the the 2 wings, with cushion under to allow support for the radiator.
5. I used a 1" strap with ratchet, to cradle the radiator for support, once the member had been removed.
6. Remove the 17mm bolt from the plastic cover on the off side.
7. Remove 2 bolts each side holding the cross member, the remaining 2 loosen down to almost a couple of threads, make sure above the member there are no cables attached, take out final single bolt and lay member on blocks at that end, remove final bolt and remove member out of chassis.
8. You may find that the rubber bushes at the bottom of the radiator may come out with the old member, don't worry they can be installed with new unit. Having removed the old member look how the clips fasten and do a little practicing to ease re cabling when new member has been fitted.
9. Check radiator rubber bushes are in place, smear a little 'shower gel' around holes that takes the bushes to ease fitting and generally check all pipes in that area for wear, in my case I found a rad hose with some wear on the outside, I taped that area to reduce any problems in the future.
10. Slide new member in place and sit one end on blocks, the other end insert one bolt, make sure you have oiled the threads to aid tightening. Insert another bolt at the other end and remove blocks. Insert all bolts and gently tighten making sure rad rubber bushers are in place and no wiring above the member is trapped. Finally tighten up all bolts very tightly and then fit all cables etc into clips above the member. Remove radiator supporting strap. Spin the fan blades by hand to ensure nothing is trapping the movement.
For normal operation to complete its approx 3 hours, in a garage with pit obviously a lot less, say 2 hours.
This is not a difficult job even for the faint hearted as long as you are between 18 and 80 years old.
Savings are in the order of £300 which will buy you a ferry crossing and more.
Well here we are getting ready for the MOT due at the end of July.
Looking over my van I found the front cross member would not pass an MOT. About 18months ago I found the cross member somewhat worse for wear and only just passed its MOT at that time. Knowing I would need to do something with the cross member if I was to retain the van I advertise through one of those autospares internet sections for a second hand cross member and obtained one at about £35 delivered. This was kept in 'stock' for about 12 months until this July when I was forced, by its condition, to change the member for the MOT. This has now been completed with not too much difficulty, below, for others that are in a similar situation, I will discribe the events.
Firstly you will need to check your cross member for excessive corrosion, in my case a small hole appeared at the nearside end of the member and put the 'kiss of death' on the unit. I then took out of 'stock' the unit purchased about 18mths ago and coated the edges with 'Hammerite' where some surface rust was evident.Then I lifted the front of the van with levelling blocks, about 4", so I'm now on my way.
Firstly one needs to gather all the gear necessary to carry out the operation.
1. Blocks to catch each end of the member
2. 18mm and 17mm sockets with a large socket bar to undo 6 bolts holding the member in place plus the one single bolt holding the plastic cover on the off side, no need to take off the cover, just move it to one side slightly to get at the member bolt.
3. Remove cables from clips on top of the member
4. Fit a support, in my case a 2" wooden pole, across the the 2 wings, with cushion under to allow support for the radiator.
5. I used a 1" strap with ratchet, to cradle the radiator for support, once the member had been removed.
6. Remove the 17mm bolt from the plastic cover on the off side.
7. Remove 2 bolts each side holding the cross member, the remaining 2 loosen down to almost a couple of threads, make sure above the member there are no cables attached, take out final single bolt and lay member on blocks at that end, remove final bolt and remove member out of chassis.
8. You may find that the rubber bushes at the bottom of the radiator may come out with the old member, don't worry they can be installed with new unit. Having removed the old member look how the clips fasten and do a little practicing to ease re cabling when new member has been fitted.
9. Check radiator rubber bushes are in place, smear a little 'shower gel' around holes that takes the bushes to ease fitting and generally check all pipes in that area for wear, in my case I found a rad hose with some wear on the outside, I taped that area to reduce any problems in the future.
10. Slide new member in place and sit one end on blocks, the other end insert one bolt, make sure you have oiled the threads to aid tightening. Insert another bolt at the other end and remove blocks. Insert all bolts and gently tighten making sure rad rubber bushers are in place and no wiring above the member is trapped. Finally tighten up all bolts very tightly and then fit all cables etc into clips above the member. Remove radiator supporting strap. Spin the fan blades by hand to ensure nothing is trapping the movement.
For normal operation to complete its approx 3 hours, in a garage with pit obviously a lot less, say 2 hours.
This is not a difficult job even for the faint hearted as long as you are between 18 and 80 years old.
Savings are in the order of £300 which will buy you a ferry crossing and more.
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A good description of a job most DIY minded folk could do. Suggest completely repaint the replacement item, including pouring paint inside and rotating to give coverage. Have a good look at the forward chassis where the crossbeam fits, mine was so badly corroded an anchor nut ripped off. Even repairing that was not too difficult.
It’s becoming the norm
On an x250 it’s an easy nut bolt job, nothing complicated to do.
- Feb 22, 2011
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Hi and welcome to FUN. 
Puddleduck
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- Jan 15, 2014
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I know of an ex-member of Fun who had a back street garage do his along with a load of cutting out and welding up of rotten rusted parts and it didn't cost that much.
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