How do I get to this trunking? (1 Viewer)

[chenderson1965]

Hi All,

Another rookie question I'm afraid.

I've been trying to work out how to route the cables from my new solar panel to the battery on my N&B Arto 2012.

I can come through the roof within the overhead locker, so that should be OK. I then need to pass it through two lockers before there's a route down to the floor.

At the back of the lockers there's some metal trunking that I can see elsewhere has cables behind it. I could just run the cable inside the lockers in some additional plastic trunking but that seems a shame, and it would be hard to drill the hole through the partition between the first and second lockers it needs to pass through close enough to the edge to run it straight from the end of the trunking thorough the hole and back into the trunking the other side.

The better solution would be to get the cables behind the existing metal trunking - which passes through both units. However, as you can see from the pics, the trunking is continuous and so trapped behind the lockers. Presumably that means I'd have to remove the lockers - unless I'm missing something? Is this easy to do?

Thanks

Chris

 

[Odd job]

If you can get to the end, and if there is enough room, it mat be possible to get a cable rod through and then drag the cable through. But there are a lot of maybes in that statement. If it was me I would run the cable at the back of the cupboard and clip it, it takes less room than trunking and as it's in a cupboard no one will see it.

 

[jongood]

Hi Chris, have you made the hole yet? You just need to get to the floor then you can get anywhere. Down through the wardrobe or the back of the tall pullout are good options

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[MisterB]

or install your own trunking?

 

[chenderson1965]

Hi Chris, have you made the hole yet? You just need to get to the floor then you can get anywhere. Down through the wardrobe or the back of the tall pullout are good options

No. I haven’t started yet. The panel is going transversely in front of the skylight so it’s not really practical to get it to the wardrobe or the tall pull out.

 

[funflair]

Hi Chris

What you describe as "metal trunking" is actually the joining angle of the roof to wall, on the Flair I had some cables going up from the floor just behind the front passenger side window, a bit of trunking and it all hidden behind the curtains.

Solar, I came down through the wardrobe as Jon says but my panels and batteries were at the back.

Martin

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[jongood]

No. I haven’t started yet. The panel is going transversely in front of the skylight so it’s not really practical to get it to the wardrobe or the tall pull out.

Do you mean the large heki? if so wont it shade the panel when its open? Ive got mine on lengthways with faired brackets.

 

[Gizmouk]

Getting access into that "trunking" looks like one of those "wishing I hadn't started this 'kin jobs"
Why not install some mini-trunking ? Dirt cheap, easy to install and easy to use. Or splash out a little and buy some brown coloured trunking, to blend in a little with the cupboard internals

 

[The Green's]

If you put trunking in the back corner, where the existing trunking/bracket is, it will be easy to see, but if you put it where the front panel of the cupboard joins the ceiling, inside the cupboard of course. It looks like there is a small pelmet there, the door doesn't go all the way to the ceiling. You'd have to sick your head into the cupboard and turn around to be able to see it.

Drill small holes between cupboards as required, again in the location you won't be able to see.

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[Lenny HB]

As Martin says that's not trunking don't touch. Looks like the cupboards have a false back for ventilation manufacturers often run cables behind them, they do in my Hymer.

 

[Minxy]

Why not just run it along the inde

... put it where the front panel of the cupboard joins the ceiling, inside the cupboard of course. It looks like there is a small pelmet there, the door doesn't go all the way to the ceiling. You'd have to sick your head into the cupboard and turn around to be able to see it.

Drill small holes between cupboards as required, again in the location you won't be able to see.

That's exactly what I was thinking as there might be a bit of a gap between the boarding and ceiling which the cables could just be slotted into, if not put it as close as possible to it so it hides it from view and use self-adhesive cable clips.

 

[mitzimad]

why not run it on the roof in trunking to get above one of the floor to ceiling cupboards

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[jongood]

heres how I did mine chenderson1965

If I was doing it again I would move the one closest back a few inches and have the entrance gland under it because it does get some shading from the heki if its open. At the time I was worried about shading from the satelite dish but we only ever have that up in daylight if the F1 is on.

 

[chenderson1965]

heres how I did mine chenderson1965 View attachment 394937

If I was doing it again I would move the one closest back a few inches and have the entrance gland under it because it does get some shading from the heki if its open. At the time I was worried about shading from the satelite dish but we only ever have that up in daylight if the F1 is on.

The layout on top of ours is a little different. The small vent between your panels is much further back (I think) and the Heki is also further back. Our first panel is transverse behind the Heki so the only space for the second is transverse in front of the Heki. Although I'm a bit uncomfortable that the front edge of the new one will be only 200mm or so from the front of the roof, both are completely unshaded.

 

[chenderson1965]

Why not just run it along the inde

That's exactly what I was thinking as there might be a bit of a gap between the boarding and ceiling which the cables could just be slotted into, if not put it as close as possible to it so it hides it from view and use self-adhesive cable clips.

Yes. Thanks. That's what I was thinking too if I have to go through the units.

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[Minxy]

The layout on top of ours is a little different. The small vent between your panels is much further back (I think) and the Heki is also further back. Our first panel is transverse behind the Heki so the only space for the second is transverse in front of the Heki. Although I'm a bit uncomfortable that the front edge of the new one will be only 200mm or so from the front of the roof, both are completely unshaded.

We have a similar layout with one being in the middle and one in front of the Heki, I was concerned about it being there and what it would look like but unless you stand a good way back or on raised ground (photos 2-4) you can't even see it (photo 1).

 

[chenderson1965]

We have a similar layout with one being in the middle and one in front of the Heki, I was concerned about it being there and what it would look like but unless you stand a good way back or on raised ground (photos 2-4) you can't even see it (photo 1).

View attachment 394959View attachment 394958
View attachment 394960View attachment 394961

Nice Van! The fourth pic looks like you are rallying in it, 4 wheel drift on a loose surface!!

I'm not too worried about the aesthetics. It's just the wind getting under the front lip and applying upward pressure. I will have centre support brackets as well as corners and I'm sure it'll be fine.

 

[Minxy]

Nice Van! The fourth pic looks like you are rallying in it, 4 wheel drift on a loose surface!!

I'm not too worried about the aesthetics. It's just the wind getting under the front lip and applying upward pressure. I will have centre support brackets as well as corners and I'm sure it'll be fine.

You could fit a wind deflector in front of it if you are really concerned but we did a few thousand miles and never had any issues with it trying to fly away or make any noises from the vortex.

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[Compactliner]

Like Minxy, we have a similar layout....current 100w panel set back right, should be easy fit for matching panel back left....then there's loads of room at the front to add a third