How do full timers / intermittent all year rounders protect their vehicle from winter? (1 Viewer)

[PaulC70]

So, yes I've only had a motorhome since July but as it's getting nippy my thoughts turn to "winterising" but I'm planning on continuing to use all year.
Sadly, Im not retired yet so not lucky enough to be away as much as I would like but am away at least one trip a month, varying from a quick 2 nighter to a fortnight at most and the rest of the time it's parked up waiting to go.
Last night, nipped out to the motorhome to grab some crisps I knew were in there as I wanted a snack and it was cold! OK, not frosty I know but it's made me think.
Therefore, is there anyone in a similar position or have advice on what to do to help protect it? Unfortunately, I don't have a drive and hence can't run a lead to it.

Grey tanks already empty but should I empty the loo flush, is it necessary to empty the boiler if there's a certain temperature forecast or would I be better to turn on the gas and run the heating on low instead?

Any advice or help appreciated.

 

[wiljoy]

Empty ALL the water and leave the drain taps open. Leave the taps open at half way between hot and cold. Burst pipes can cause a lot of damage. I've never had the heating running as in a previous van it caused severe interior condensation. Over 35 years thus routine has worked fir us. A silver screen certainly keeps the cold out and helps reduce any condensation.

 

[funflair]

If you think it's going to freeze as opposed to just a frost the boiler is one of the most important things to empty although most do this themselves by way of a dump valve, any body of water that is enclosed is the most likely to cause problems for example I have split a couple of shower heads in our caravanning days by leaving the tap closed and the slider button on the shower head closed as well, I never worried about the waste tank or water tank as they were not full so had room for expansion if they did ever freeze solid, enclosed pipework is another possible issue so drain hot and cold pipes and leave taps open.

If you have a separate toilet flush I am sure it would be a good idea to drain that but to be honest I don't remember ever doing it and the MH is flushed from the main water tank.

If you want to keep the van ready to use you could turn the heating to low when its going to be proper cold but you might still find the waste and fresh water freeze depending where they are sited and how well insulated.

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[movan]

Sorry daft question alert.

If I empty the water tank, can I still put the internal heating on low? Or does it need some water still left in?

(sorry for hijack PaulC70 thought it might also help you, although you probably already know.)

 

[mitzimad]

heating works independent of hot water so yes joy

 

[Geistguy]

Your boiler should "self empty" at about 4c but if you are only going to use the van once a month I would empty all the water, it's easy enough to refill.

Remember to leave the taps open when emptying, don't forget the shower. Leave open when filling and turn off when water is coming through in a steady flow.

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[PaulC70]

Hmmm ok, looks like Im leaning towards having to drain and refill every time as according to https://www.baileyofbristol.co.uk/w...iance-Silver-Adamo-Owners-Manual-Nov-20-2.pdf I don't have a frost protection valve :-(

Sorry daft question alert.

If I empty the water tank, can I still put the internal heating on low? Or does it need some water still left in?

(sorry for hijack PaulC70 thought it might also help you, although you probably already know.)

heating works independent of hot water so yes joy

No problem with the "hijack" but Im confused about this too.
How can the heating be left on low if the boiler is drained? It must need some water in the system surely?

 

[Langtoftlad]

Hmmm ok, looks like Im leaning towards having to drain and refill every time as according to https://www.baileyofbristol.co.uk/w...iance-Silver-Adamo-Owners-Manual-Nov-20-2.pdf I don't have a frost protection valve :-(




No problem with the "hijack" but Im confused about this too.
How can the heating be left on low if the boiler is drained? It must need some water in the system surely?

Heating is blown air if by Truma [don't know about Alde wet - presume that's a sealed system?] so no water needed.

 

[PaulC70]

Heating is blown air if by Truma [don't know about Alde wet - presume that's a sealed system?] so no water needed.

Yes I have the truma system, But is that only on electric surely?

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[tonka]

Heating is blown air if by Truma [don't know about Alde wet - presume that's a sealed system?] so no water needed.

The Alde is a sealed system for the radiators and has antifreeze so stays in place all year.
In my Burstner the water tank is internal under a seat and the boiler is inside a housing within the garage plus a double floor helps keep it all a bit more protected. The boiler and fresh water i will still empty if i leave the van standing to long or very cold. Old habits.

Worth noting that not all vans have the Truma dump valve, none of mine have ever had one.

 

[PaulC70]

Worth noting that not all vans have the Truma dump valve, none of mine have ever had one.

Yep, pretty sure my Alliance doesn't. Gonna have a poke about the van in a moment and find out 100%

 

[CazPaul]

I used to think about this question but no more.

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[PaulC70]

I used to think about this question but no more.

View attachment 550279

I wish I had that kind of room :-(

 

[davidathomas42]

Yes I have the truma system, But is that only on electric surely?

The Truma uses Electric or Gas to heat the air blown part of the system. Water is just water.

When heating the van any water in the trim boiler unit (thats for showering etc) is naturally heated as its next to the heat system but it's got nothing to do with the actual heating system.

 

[PaulC70]

The Truma uses Electric or Gas to heat the air blown part of the system. Water is just water.

When heating the van any water in the trim boiler unit (thats for showering etc) is naturally heated as its next to the heat system but it's got nothing to do with the actual heating system.

Ah ok I think that makes sense. So essentially, running on gas I don't need any water at all in the system if all I want is heating?

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[davidathomas42]

Ah ok I think that makes sense. So essentially, running on gas I don't need any water at all in the system if all I want is heating?

Exactly. Try to think of heating and water as two totally separate systems. They just happen to be in the one box.

Once your heating has been running a while it will have warmed your water. Kind of like a light bulb is only for light but it also gets hot.

 

[Jonno1103]

I drain all of the water tanks and leave the fridge and heating on 230v which also maintains the leisure battery. Solar is switched to vehicle battery. I never leave water sitting in the tanks when the van is not in use. Both fresh and grey water tanks, pipes, taps & drains are flushed with cleaner before each use.

 

[PaulC70]

Got a few photos.
1. is where the manual tap to drain down is
2. As I post this I realise this is actually the external 240v socket and nothing to do with the truma lol Mind you I don't know why there is only a wire going to one side and the other is empty.
3. No idea what that is!

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[PaulC70]

I drain all of the water tanks and leave the fridge and heating on 230v which also maintains the leisure battery. Solar is switched to vehicle battery. I never leave water sitting in the tanks when the van is not in use. Both fresh and grey water tanks, pipes, taps & drains are flushed with cleaner before each use.

I'd love to leave stuff on mains but can't

 

[PaulC70]

Eureka, just been out and checked if I can get heat only, on gas, no boiler running for hot water and it works!!

So, there's a lazy bit of me that would rather not be draining and refilling the boiler so I guess my options are
a) just suck it up and do it
b) Watch the forecasts and simply put the heat on low overnight when frost beckons.
c) Be ultra lazy and fit the iNet compatible bluetooth bits so I can do it remotely.

 

[funflair]

I love the way the cold water pipe runs straight over the top of the vent to outside, keep the water nice and cool

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[TinaLes]

We used the van for trips last winter, but I made sure to fully drain down all water tanks, Boiler, toilet flush, shower (remove hose), blow down all taps & Shower mixer as hard as I can to force water out, leave all taps wide open in mid position.
I know its a real pain to have to do this, but here's the reason I do it always on return.

1.despite being a German fully winterised double floor van the temp difference inside to outside was only 1C when measured in cab near windscreen on very cold frosty nights, the automatic frost dump valve always opens at temps below 5C and needs to be reset when refilling boiler, so it just shows how cold it gets in winter.

2.Trial & Error, When the van was laid up last winter, I placed a small 500 watt oil filled temp controlled radiator on the floor in the middle of the van when when we had a long period of minus temps at night. Some nights were down to minus 4C ! It used 10/12 KWH per day to keep the van just above 5/8C which would now cost me @20P per KWH home Tarif £2.40 per day,£16.80 per week, or £67.20 per month!

3. Having returned home from a trip very late one night, I once forgot that the heating/water was on the timer, but was set to low about 10C, it used up both my Gaslow re-fillable LPG tanks in a fortnight.

Nowadays I just leave the van unheated, open up cupboards, roll up duvets & pillows, I have solar panels, but I just plug in the ehu cable to keep the battery banks top up mostly on short dark cold winters days. I fully drain down even if its only for a day or two before going away again ,as I forgot to remove my shower hose on one occasion, the mixer froze up forcing the cartridge to move forward, shearing the black plastic retaining washer, which took two weeks to get a replacement for, and delayed the get away for our honeymoon!

Good luck, my tip would be always drain down completely.
LES