Horse lorry to camper.. in 4 months (1 Viewer)

[Mrsambulancekidd]

Welcome and happy converting, it reminds me of the Bedford TK I used to have many moons ago for the horses.

 

[Chris CM]

Super project, looks tall enough for a mezzanine floor

 

[Destination Unknown]

What weight is this van? Could it be down plated to 3.5t?

Fancy a retro / quirky camper could become a serial converter!!

Cheers James

Can find out if you like. Will call in tomorrow and see.

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[Jamesh]

26mm XPS? Would you not be better with 40mm?
The pvc is the expensive part surely?

Also IKEA kitchens now run on a alloy batten. You could do the same with a batten at waist height and shoulder height and hang the units off that?

Cheers James

 

[NopocketAces]

Thanks James

Am I being stupid with 26mm xps - it has a u value of 1.2ish which I thought would be sufficient - it also works for windows/skylights etc and I was operating on the KISS principle. However, not too dificult to go for a thicker xps if the insulation is a more important issue

Thanks for the input

 

[NopocketAces]

Just got some shield sliding cassette windows - how the hell do you fit them?

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[mitzimad]

you question regarding hanging cabinets from the walls if you look at a lot of campers they work like a welsh dresser.p up against a tall cupboard one end and profiled support or another cupboard the other end

 

[ambulancekidd]

 

[tacr2man]

You can hang cabinets from ali angle and by screwing or riviting to the panels , multiple fixings spread the load out and you use a side load rather than a pull load . Load retaining channels on inside of fridge vans are only self tapper screwed to the inside grp but with lots of screws and the load is sideways and they will hold several tonnes .

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[NopocketAces]

Perfect... thanks Tacr2man... just what I wanted to know! Taking a two week break now but the panels should be here at the beginning of September...

 

[Peatmoor]

Hello all.. just joined as this seems like the right place to be! To cut a long story short we have just acquired an old horse lorry (old enough not to have seatbelts in the cab) and are attempting to convert to a self sufficient MH by the end of October. The beast is parked up, the mahogany panelling stripped off and repurposed as a shed and the first coat of red oxide is going on. It is a nice old wagon with iron framework so we are going for a composite body panel to fit inside the frame and will weld hangers on the subframe to mount the accessories.

Where could it possibly go wrong... except my first attempt at welding was not pretty

For those who are self building a larger van see my advert in "classifieds" if you are in the market for a set of unused motorhome seating.

 

[NopocketAces]

Back on the project now and figuring out how to make an extension to the roof above the cab for the sleeping area. However, bigger issues... has anyone fitted Shield cassette windows on a conversion before? The instructions are incomprehensible and we have an oval sliding window with a square frame. My mate and I have been trying to figure out what goes where but are on the verge of giving up. Hopefully one of you old hats will have come across this and know in an instant what to do....!

Thanks

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[gus-lopez]

Back on the project now and figuring out how to make an extension to the roof above the cab for the sleeping area. However, bigger issues... has anyone fitted Shield cassette windows on a conversion before? The instructions are incomprehensible and we have an oval sliding window with a square frame. My mate and I have been trying to figure out what goes where but are on the verge of giving up. Hopefully one of you old hats will have come across this and know in an instant what to do....!

Thanks

Any photo's of said window ?

 

[NopocketAces]

I'll try and upload tomorrow morning

 

[NopocketAces]

Here are 2 photos of the window, one of the components and one of the window as we think it should be when complete -just worried about the gaps around the curved corners. If anyone has these, does this look normal!

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[Minxy]

Here are 2 photos of the window, one of the components and one of the window as we think it should be when complete -just worried about the gaps around the curved corners. If anyone has these, does this look normal!

They look like 2 different units, the oval one should just be fitted on it's own, the only reason I can think of why you've got the other bit is to use the internal side of it only as that's got the blind in.

 

[Minxy]

Just read this which seems to agree with my view above:

Sliding Cassette Window with Black out Blinds and Fly Net Screens | Shield Auto Care

• Catch lock sliding window with anti-theft multi-lock system• Quality double glazed tempered glass• Integrated roller blackout blind and fly net screen• Fly net screen and black out roller blinds can be clipped together and simultaneously adjusted with just one hand• The blind has a white/beige...

www.shieldautocare.co.uk

Outer and inner frame are simply bonded together from inside, clamping the window to the vehicle wall, then the inner cassette is fixed to the inner frame so help reduce the risk of damaging the blind whilst fitting we recommend applying a polyurethane or semi-permanent sealant bead around the outer frame for a watertight seal.

 

[NopocketAces]

Many thanks Minxy

Will see how we get on. Panel not arrive yet but on their way...

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[gwyntaxi]

Just a couple of questions whilst the red oxide dries....

How much insulation do I need for the floor. As heat rises I was not planning on much!
Water heating is going to be through a webasto or eberspacher into a 30l dual coil tank also connected to the truck cooling system... do you recommend an expansion tank or will a pressure relief valve be sufficient?

Many thanks

So does damp cold, I’d go for 40mm at least.

 

[Vipar]

Greetings peeps welcome from Bexley

Good luck with the build post photos they help other builders

 

[NopocketAces]

Hi all

Posted on other threads in the run-up to mnow but thought I would get back on track as the build is progressing..not quite the 4 months as thought but hopefully up and on the road by the end of June. The floor goes in tommorrow and then the panels will be fitted for position of the cut outs and then installed.

It is now time to look at the electrics which is my least favorite part - how can you trust something that you can't see but still kills you!

I have been trawling around and looking at what I need but would love some advice... am I on the right track, overkill, under purchasing, missing something....Here is the shopping list:

3 way changeover switch
12 way switchable circuit breaker panel
3000w pure sine invertor
Split charge kit
540w solar kit with MPPT
4 way consumer unit for the 240v
various sockets/led lights/ switches
light with fan for the bathroom

Already got:

Eberspacher
Calorifier
2x 110v leisure batteries
generator


Would love your thoughts!

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[Peatmoor]

Hi all

Posted on other threads in the run-up to mnow but thought I would get back on track as the build is progressing..not quite the 4 months as thought but hopefully up and on the road by the end of June. The floor goes in tommorrow and then the panels will be fitted for position of the cut outs and then installed.

It is now time to look at the electrics which is my least favorite part - how can you trust something that you can't see but still kills you!

I have been trawling around and looking at what I need but would love some advice... am I on the right track, overkill, under purchasing, missing something....Here is the shopping list:

3 way changeover switch
12 way switchable circuit breaker panel
3000w pure sine invertor
Split charge kit
540w solar kit with MPPT
4 way consumer unit for the 240v
various sockets/led lights/ switches
light with fan for the bathroom

Already got:

Eberspacher
Calorifier
2x 110v leisure batteries
generator


Would love your thoughts!

Hi
I think you have most things covered, however just the relatively small available amperage of 2x 110a leisure batteries with a 3000w inverter would be my concern. I have a 3000 w inverter but I have 480amperes of leisure batteries. I also have a genny which I only start when I absolutely have to, particularly so when other motorhomes are close by who will not want to hear a genny motor running. Whilst I am aware you have a genny, you won't want to have to start it every time you want to use the inverter to the high capacity for short periods, but without the genny your 2x 110a batteries will soon be discharged.

I hope this helps.

peatmoor

 

[tacr2man]

You can get away with a two way switchover , by just using the gennie as a ehu supply feed and wiring a good size charger on the ehu side of the ats (change over) . BTW you haven't mentioned a 240v charger for your batteries . You mention split charge system . Do you mean battery to battery charger , as this is a better set up , than a split charge . For your size of inverter , as Peatmoor says 2 batteries aren't really going to cut it .
HTSH

 

[Raul]

Hi
I think you have most things covered, however just the relatively small available amperage of 2x 110a leisure batteries with a 3000w inverter would be my concern. I have a 3000 w inverter but I have 480amperes of leisure batteries. I also have a genny which I only start when I absolutely have to, particularly so when other motorhomes are close by who will not want to hear a genny motor running. Whilst I am aware you have a genny, you won't want to have to start it every time you want to use the inverter to the high capacity for short periods, but without the genny your 2x 110a batteries will soon be discharged.

I hope this helps.

peatmoor

I was going to mention it, but since you pointed that out, it’s like this: the OP’s 3kw inverter with 220ah battery is like feeding a thirsty horse with a cup, and yours with a bowl. A 3kw inverter wants at least 250a close to 280a of flow. A lead battery can only give max 0,2C of amps before voltage sag comes in severely steep. In other words a 3kw inverter is matched to at least 1250ah battery bank at 12v.
Divide your total battery bank by 5, and that’s all the amps you can draw with a inverter before you kill them. For your 480ah bank is 96a times 12v voltage= 1152w power, as a max load. This before any conversion efficiency and discharge efficiency is taken in consideration. So, why a 3kw inverter since can only be used only a portion of it? Very inefficient set up, the larger the inverter the bigger the draw in stand by and poor efficiency ar partial load. A1kw inverter would be far more appropriate.

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[NopocketAces]

Many thanks both of you for comments... The 3kw invertor was just to power my coffee machine as this is the only essential for travelling (!). Looking at the kit we would use, a couple of laptops to charge, although this would be done on the move for the best efficiency, coffee machine (nespresso type at around 1500w and used for perhaps 12 minutes a day, maybe a blender once in a while and I havent decided about the tv and sat or freeview box (12v or 240v). Fridge/lights/usb/ etc would be on the 12v circuit. Gas ignition for the cooker - not sure...The invertor would need to be big to get the coffee machine working... what am I missing or doing wrong?

 

[NopocketAces]

Tacrman, Raul and Peatmoor...What batteries would you recommend for the set up-- that wont break the bank and still give me a cup of decent ish coffee without killing them!

 

[Raul]

Battery choice is directly related to type of use, and charging capabilities. If weight is not a issue, the best bang for the buck is lead wet cell. It has nothing to do with cost. You have to price for your needs.
If I was to buy lead, and have similar needs, then that would be serviceable wet traction batteries hands down. They are industrial use rated and ability to maintain them. That would’ve best cost performance. As example, I would get 4 Trojan T125, or T105 if money too tight. The las choice will be leisure battery type, they have no real deep cycle capability, and definitely poor for peak power draw. That’s exactly what you will need with the coffee maker, high peak draw. I have fitted quite few in off grid places. My brother has the 125’s with 1500w solar on a 24v system. Last time this winter I toped them up and given a equalise charge. They perform as new and are over 4 years old. Folk in USA get 4-8 years out of them with heavy off grid use.
Anything for motive power, traction batteries ratted will do well. Anything else will be for light use, no high peak discharge, and certainly not deep cycle.

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[NopocketAces]

Thanks Tacr2man

I am trying to get my head around the batteries at the moment but am coming to the conclusion that if I want a nespresso in the morning I need to spend a huge amount of cash on bigger batteries. Does that mean if I forego the coffee I can forego the 3000w invertor and sit tight on the 220ah set up I have. I am not planning full time living but when we get away it would be nice to spend a few nights off grid. If I am moving the batteries will be charged everytime I stop and on hook up/genny I will have a charger going as well. Or is a minimum of 400ah needed...?

 

[NopocketAces]

Fitted the floor today.. or at least the sub floor, with rebated edges for the wall panels .. and got the bulkhead lower panel in place. Now struggling to get the bulkhead top panel in place and have given up in favour of red wine. Tomorrow is another day - fitting the side panels to mark out the cut-outs..

 

[NopocketAces]

Side panels have been in.. and out. A complete jigsaw but they fit perfectly. Measured for the cutouts and after much trepidation and measuring and remeasuring a hundred times...the door is now in place. ( Should the door fit very suggly into the cutout or should there be room for bags of sealant?)

This week: painting the verticals, window cutouts, top panels and thinking about internal carpentry..

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