Holesaw through perspex splashback.

[Folkranger]

Changing the single 13a socket. for a double.
Before I start drilling, has anybody done this. Don't want to break it etc.

 

[Speve]

Changing the single 13a socket. for a double.
Before I start drilling, has anybody done this. Don't want to break it etc.

Cut it from the back if you can and put some tape over the cut line to prevent spalling the edges

 

[MichaelT]

Cut it from the back if you can and put some tape over the cut line to prevent spalling the edges

That means he will be drilling in from the outside, going to be a bit drafty with that hole in the wall

 

[Phill D]

Tape over the area to be cut, nice sharp hole saw and do it slowly a bit at a time not to cause too much heat around the cutter.

 

[Brianmor]

Clipsal used to do a twin switched socket that fitted on a single socket box if thats any easier

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[Raul]

You need a diamond hole cutter, used for tiles. Drill through a piece on sacrificial ply, and use that as a template to guide the cutter.
A hole saw will work if you very careful. You need to cut in reverse, as it will bite to much. Before you start, you need a small pilot hole. I have done it in fragile polycarbonate.

 

[Lenny HB]

As long as you run the drill on slow it will cut fine more of a concern loads of cables run down behind there.

But why? Is another question there are 5 sockets in our van we occasionally use one of them, sorry 4, I removed one.

 

[Speve]

That means he will be drilling in from the outside, going to be a bit drafty with that hole in the wall

No I think he could take it off the wall firstand as Lenny HB said there’s an awful lot of cables behind it

 

[Lenny HB]

Clipsal used to do a twin switched socket that fitted on a single socket box if thats any easier

Clipsal stopped trading years ago and that would look awful in a Hymer. Mods should always look like they were an OEM fit.

 

[Folkranger]

Clipsal used to do a twin switched socket that fitted on a single socket box if thats any easier

I've got the double socket. Ready to cut.

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[Folkranger]

You need a diamond hole cutter, used for tiles. Drill through a piece on sacrificial ply, and use that as a template to guide the cutter.
A hole saw will work if you very careful. You need to cut in reverse, as it will bite to much. Before you start, you need a small pilot hole. I have done it in fragile polycarbonate.

That sounds like the ideal but I'm fitting this in the real world.

 

[Folkranger]

As long as you run the drill on slow it will cut fine more of a concern loads of cables run down behind there.

But why? Is another question there are 5 sockets in our van we occasionally use one of them, sorry 4, I removed one.

I've got 2 in the garage, 2 behind the TV where I don't need any, one beside the table and still finding them but I like my toaster and kettle on at the same time, preferably in the kitchen.
Did you take the splashback off or have you not done this? I was hoping to cut in situ but just noticed how thick the perspex is.

 

[Folkranger]

No I think he could take it off the wall

Do you know how?

 

[Landy Andy]

I’m different to most it appears. I would run the drill as fast as possible, and then progress as slowly as possible. I find that running the drill slowly causes the teeth to bite to much, shaking you, the drill bit, and the hole all over the place. That’s certainly my findings drilling plastic sinks, basins, baths and more as it’s part of my job.

Let us know how you get on.

 

[Folkranger]

Clipsal stopped trading years ago and that would look awful in a Hymer. Mods should always look like they were an OEM fit.

Just fitted these cbe sockets. The 13a are the same.

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[Speve]

Do you know how?

Not a clue I’m afraid as I have not tried, I’ll have a look and see if I can suggest anything though

 

[Brianmor]

Clipsal stopped trading years ago and that would look awful in a Hymer. Mods should always look like they were an OEM fit.

Schneider bought up Clipsal when it liquidated and still sell their accessories. If the new socket was being installed in an area where it was not seen then there wouldn't be a problem what make was used

 

[Folkranger]

I’m different to most it appears. I would run the drill as fast as possible, and then progress as slowly as possible. I find that running the drill slowly causes the teeth to bite to much, shaking you, the drill bit, and the hole all over the place. That’s certainly my findings drilling plastic sinks, basins, baths and more as it’s part of my job.

Let us know how you get on.

I can relate to that. But the thought of running a course toothed hole saw in a hand held drill on a vertical sheet of wobbly perspex.........

 

[Folkranger]

Not a clue I’m afraid as I have not tried, I’ll have a look and see if I can suggest anything though

Schneider bought up Clipsal when it liquidated and still sell their accessories. If the new socket was being installed in an area where it was not seen then there wouldn't be a problem what make was used

See post #16

 

[Landy Andy]

Slow is ok till a tooth bites, then the cuter starts to go all over the place creating hell.

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[Speve]

Do you know how?

Here’s your answer gently prise off the top silver quadrant cover fillet with a wide bladed panel tool then you will see small screws that holds the backing strip take them out and the panel will pull towards you from top as side covers are not fixed and lift panel out of bottom channel

 

[Two on Tour]

Perspex is a thermoplastic and as such heat produce by drilling at a high or even a medium speed will melt and clog the holesaw teeth.
Perspex also has a habit of snatching and grabbing holesaws and drill bits, so make sure you have a good grip on both the workpiece and your drill.

 

[Speve]

You might need to take off the splash back at the side of the hob as well

 

[Folkranger]

Here’s your answer gently prise off the top silver quadrant cover fillet with a wide bladed panel tool then you will see small screws that holds the backing strip take them out and the panel will pull towards you from top as side covers are not fixed and lift panel out of bottom channel

You know, it's people like you who make this the greatest "camping" site ever. Thanks, will give it a go.

 

[Speve]

You know, it's people like you who make this the greatest "camping" site ever. Thanks, will give it a go.

That’s what it’s all about if my experience as a joiner and motorhome owner can help someone in need that’s great, take it slowly and you should be ok.

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[Two on Tour]

For larger holes and cutouts in Perspex and Lexan we would use a MDF jig and a router.

 

[Speve]

I know I May be a bit old fashioned but sometimes the good old ways of doing things by hand work far better? Without the use of any power tools

 

[tonyidle]

A very safe method (if it's possible) is to cut it under water.

 

[Folkranger]

So here's what transpired.
Couldn't get the splashback off without damaging the top seal so decided it was best cut in situ.

Tested a hidden edge with a fine saw to see of it could be sawn as a back up.

Yes.
Drilled a micro sized test hole where the second socket goes. Yes it drilled.
Progressively increased drill size until hole saw drill would fit.
Used hole saw, no pressure on it and it cut right through. Job done bar a minor scratch - I'm clumsy these days.

 

[Speve]

Well done I took out the silver quadrant very easily with a plastic trim tool it just clips on to ally back strip but it may have felt a bit stiff but of course I didn’t go any further.
I prised it out from the top edge

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