HELP WITH OMNIVENT PROBLEM

MotorhomersRus

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Carthago E Line
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Needing some help please with a Omnivent problem.
New to us MH the Fan worked once aware of problems with these on the switch so
Ordered new switch...... still won't work try's then stops lights flash.
If wired direct to power it whirls away like mad :confused:
We have no idea why it would behave like this
so any advice on things to try would be grateful.
Thanks
 
At a guess, I would say low voltage or a bad connection in the roof
 
Can i ask if there was an answer to the question on this?

Carolyn
 
Ours is doing this too. I'm going to strip it down shortly 👍

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Well that was easy.
20200701_153716.jpg


It's all sealed in clear silicone but looks perfect, no water damage even though it did get wet once. If you hold the fan blade and start it, it trips off exactly the same as the fault with the flashing LEDs so it must be an over current protection which is strange because it doesn't trip off if you slow the motor down with a finger 👆🤔. It's working OK again now so I'll leave it to get worse.
 
We replaced our controller and it's been fine since. The controller is £70! Just bare that in mind when it comes to playing up again!
The controller is designed to allow and increase and decrease in current to run the motor at a level to suit . What apparently happens is this Its this bit..that throws a wobbly! Trouble is...its a full replacement and not a repair!
The controller disconnected allows the motor to run full bore forward or reverse. Hence ...no motor fault. The bit that you need to slow the motor down is the controller.
I believe there is a fix for this without the controller?
I believe you can put a switch on board that allows (Through diodes added ) an increase or decrease in motor speed?
Check out the thread with Riverbank annie and DBK . Im sure they have dealt with this before?

Kev
 
I'll make a speed controller for it when it finally gives up. I made one for the home made roof light fans and it works great. It's PWM so efficient 👍
 
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Have you still kept both directions or changed the switch as well. We only tend to use it for extraction so may have to look as this as a mod.👍
I have ordered the bits to do this so will be having a go.

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Last edited:
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@TheBig1 thanks
Hubby says he’s getting over 13v at source
13v at source does not mean 13v under load, poor connections will stop the fan working but will still read 13v. If on EHU it should be 13.2 plus.
 
Took a pic, this is the only way it will go in, I took a tiny 45° bit off the output transistor heat sink with the bench grinder so it went in better, you also have to snap off a little plastic rod thing that sticks down. Would probably look better with black perspex.. Oh well, it works bootiful 👍 😊.

20200930_184545.jpg
 
Took a pic, this is the only way it will go in, I took a tiny 45° bit off the output transistor heat sink with the bench grinder so it went in better, you also have to snap off a little plastic rod thing that sticks down. Would probably look better with black perspex.. Oh well, it works bootiful 👍 😊.

View attachment 429400
Looks a brilliant job I will post a pic when I’m done might try some white plastic I have a look at what’s about 👍
 
I've made it frosted with very fine sandpaper on the inside. Wasn't completely happy with it before, it matches the rest of the plastic much better now 😇👌

20201003_152054.jpg

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Why not paint it on the inside?
 
Why not paint it on the inside?
Could do but I'm happy with it like that now, I think it's better than having it a colour.
Oh, also the pcb has got a power on LED that you can see through to 👍
 
It's much quicker to set the speed too, the buttons sometimes didn't respond with 1 press. If the smoke alarm goes off now it can be on full speed in 1 second 😎 has yours come yet?
Bits arrived yesterday so made a start this afternoon with a bit of luck I’ll finnish it in the morning looks like it will possibly fit in the original grey plastic cover I’ll know tomorrow 🙂

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Bits arrived yesterday so made a start this afternoon with a bit of luck I’ll finnish it in the morning looks like it will possibly fit in the original grey plastic cover I’ll know tomorrow 🙂
On mine there was an thin line on the edge of the circuit board that hadn't been snapped off, only about 2mm but it snapped off easily with pliars. It's tight to get it in the original cover. The old pcb will prize out of it ok 👍
 
On mine there was an thin line on the edge of the circuit board that hadn't been snapped off, only about 2mm but it snapped off easily with pliars. It's tight to get it in the original cover. The old pcb will prize out of it ok 👍
I have trimed everything off at both ends 😂 and it’s looking promising the board fits in no probs, just got to find room for the switch and reostat 🙂
 
I have trimed everything off at both ends 😂 and it’s looking promising the board fits in no probs, just got to find room for the switch and reostat 🙂
Don't forget the knob may stop the blind shutting if you use it.
 
Don't forget the knob may stop the blind shutting if you use it.
Good point I never thought of that lol, but never used it yet, the trimming I have done up to now could easily be put back to standard, the board came straight out giving more room and yes you are talking 0.5 mm here and there as you know but I am optimistic for a fairly good result.
I will get some pics if it works 🤞
 
Ok here is my version a bit of trimming and cutting and the blind still works I had to remove the old board to make space 🙂
1C9935DF-9B69-4C70-BAA9-C24D62C0D4F0.jpeg

Now back to the step relays 🙄

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Ok here is my version a bit of trimming and cutting and the blind still works I had to remove the old board to make space 🙂View attachment 431952
Now back to the step relays 🙄
Sterling work! 👌
Just a thought, you can get little 3mm LED holders so you could mount the power on LED in the panel next to the switch.

Also did you limit the top speed with a 100k resistor? If you don't it takes about 9 amps on full power and blows the mozzie guards out the top 🤣
 
Sterling work! 👌
Just a thought, you can get little 3mm LED holders so you could mount the power on LED in the panel next to the switch.

Also did you limit the top speed with a 100k resistor? If you don't it takes about 9 amps on full power and blows the mozzie guards out the top 🤣
Yes Richard 100k fitted I did consider putting the led in but then thought well if it’s on you can hear it, if I get bored over the winter though it might get done it was a bit tricky getting the board to stay put then fit the cover but a bit of blue tac helped hold it till I got the cover on 👍
 
Yes Richard 100k fitted I did consider putting the led in but then thought well if it’s on you can hear it, if I get bored over the winter though it might get done it was a bit tricky getting the board to stay put then fit the cover but a bit of blue tac helped hold it till I got the cover on 👍
🤔 Tell you what would look better... You know where the old LEDs used to shine through the front panel, they are like tiny windows, super glue the LED on the inside of one of them, will be discreet and look OEM 😍👌
 
Hello and thanks for a fascinating thread! Unfortunately the ebay link for the motor controller has expired. Could you post a new link to a suitable one? I am concerned that the Omnivent motor appears to be marked up as 80w, and many of the controllers do not offer that wattage at 12v.
Any help appreciated (y)
 
Hello and thanks for a fascinating thread! Unfortunately the ebay link for the motor controller has expired. Could you post a new link to a suitable one? I am concerned that the Omnivent motor appears to be marked up as 80w, and many of the controllers do not offer that wattage at 12v.
Any help appreciated (y)
Think this is the module;

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