Help. 12v Lighter fuses blown!

cantonalegod

cantonalegod

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Hi Folks, sorry it's so late, someone may still be up.

We have no power from both our 12v lighter socket.
We think the fuses have blown (separately).
We also think that we need 10amp (red?) fuses to replace them.

We have a Hymer Exsis-i 414.
Does anyone know,

1. If they ARE 10amp red blade fuses, as opposed to car type.

2. Where the fuse for the Fiat van one is located.

3. Where the one for the Hymer habitation is located.

We are sat in the Newhaven Ferry car park with an 11am crossing, and starting to panic!!!

Many thanks.
 
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Fuses are available in most garages or hypermarkets in France, you need to know why before just upgrading the fuse.
 
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Fuse box usually under dash in passenger foot well, or under bonnet on the right hand side.

Hope some can be more helpful before you sail good luck.
 
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shrek snr said:
Any idea what caused them to blow.
Click to expand...
Think it was a third party plug in double 12v and USB.

Lost the first before we left home. Didn't realise what had caused it as we only plugged it in for a second.

Stupid enough to try it in the other one!!

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Got the ones under passenger seat.

Obviously all the writing is in German :LOL:

TV translates pretty well!

That one looks OK, which is worrying.

Further Problem now...wife has woken up feeling sh**, and is worried about travelling out of the country, so looks like we are going to have to reschedule anyway.

Thanks
 
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THe Hymer fuses in the Elktroblock are standard blade fuses, the ones in the Fiat dash fuse box are mini blade fuses both available anywhere, in supermarkets, garages etc.
Just checking a blade fuse does by looking does not always tell you it is blown, always best to check with a meter you can get one for a few Euro in a supermarket.
 
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On our 2015 Fiat based Hymer the fuse for the ciggy lighter is under the bonnet. You will find it using the Fiat handbook, not the Hymer one. A pig to get to in an A class and not visible. When I finally did find it it would not move at all when I tried to pull it out. Gave up in the end.

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Not knowing the year , here are the fiat locations for


2007-14 ( by steering wheel in cab) Fiat-Ducato-2007-2014_cabCigarete.jpg
2014-22 in engine bay.
2014-22enginefusecigar.jpg
 
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The fuses are 10 amp under the bonnet righthand side by the air filter, the box lid has 3 or 4 screws and you have to wiggle it a bit to lift it.
 
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Lenny HB said:
THe Hymer fuses in the Elktroblock are standard blade fuses, the ones in the Fiat dash fuse box are mini blade fuses both available anywhere, in supermarkets, garages etc.
Just checking a blade fuse does by looking does not always tell you it is blown, always best to check with a meter you can get one for a few Euro in a supermarket.
Click to expand...
Thanks Lenny, I was hoping you would see my post! (y)
 
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Bessy765 said:
The fuses are 10 amp under the bonnet righthand side by the air filter, the box lid has 3 or 4 screws and you have to wiggle it a bit to lift it.
Click to expand...
Thank you, ours is 2016 build....unfortunately!

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Hope your wife is ok. If you go by the fiat handbook, the fuses are mislabelled but are on the inner wing, uk nearside.
 
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cantonalegod said:
Thanks. Is that the same on an A class?
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The converters dont use the Fiat fuseboxes for anything and leave them alone usually. An A class is only a Fiat Ducato under the bonnet and the dash etc. The error in mislabelling 2 fuses has been there for years, as it's not worth reprinting the manual for that
 
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Sorry to revive this one but we are still struggling!

We found a blown 15amp fuse in the engine compartment fusebox, so replaced that and the 12v cig lighter socket in the cab is working again.

Not having as much luck with the Hab area.

We found another 15a fuse behind the removable back panel under the drivers seat which was also blown, we hoped this would solve the problem, but no! (Don't have a clue what that one did).

Basically the 12v cigarette lighter, and the 12v ignition live from the battery to the fridge, (which also powers the Sat Dish), have no power. They are all on the same side and fed power together.

The Sat guy linked into the fridge feed to fit the dish, i spoke to him to see if he had added an additional fuse, he said no. It was all fitted over 5 years ago.

We have checked every fuse we can find on the vehicle, (well over 50), 2 fuse boxes next to each other in the engine bay, a fuse box low on the dash to the right of the steering wheel, all the fuses on the EBL 130 under the passenger seat, fuses on the adapter under the driver seat, additionals, as mentioned, at back of the drivers seat. Also checked a 50a and 20a by the engine battery, an in-line 20a between the leisure batteries, and 2 on the back of the Sat control box.

Fuses everywhere!

Display panel on fridge still works, but no switch to 12v.

Permanently live are the electric step, one set of interior lights, and the outside awning light, all working.

Everything else is working.

Anyone got any more ideas?

I'll post in questions as well if that's OK.
 
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Have you checked the fuses with a meter as a visual check will not always show a blown fuse?
You are getting power to the EBL as step & some hab lights are working.
The 12v to the fridge from the hab battery is fed from a 20 amp fuse on the EBL labeled AES.
The fridge fuse for working when the engine is running is the 20 amp fuse next to the 50 amp fuse next to the starter battery.
Satellite fuse should be a 10 amp one in a small fuse block next to the EBL should also be a 10 amp one for heating and 2 amp one for fridge electronics in the same block these are seperate to the EBL.
Done from memory but I'm sure it is similar to my current van, I had a 2014 Exsis.
 
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Lenny HB said:
Have you checked the fuses with a meter as a visual check will not always show a blown fuse?
You are getting power to the EBL as step & some hab lights are working.
The 12v to the fridge from the hab battery is fed from a 20 amp fuse on the EBL labeled AES.
The fridge fuse for working when the engine is running is the 20 amp fuse next to the 50 amp fuse next to the starter battery.
Satellite fuse should be a 10 amp one in a small fuse block next to the EBL should also be a 10 amp one for heating and 2 amp one for fridge electronics in the same block these are seperate to the EBL.
Done from memory but I'm sure it is similar to my current van, I had a 2014 Exsis.
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Thanks Lenny.

Yes we tested all the Hab fuses with a meter, and the terminals.

I've had a local Motorhome hab/repair guy out here trying to locate the problem.

I changed the 20a fuse by the engine battery.

Will go back and triple check.

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This has the sound of and I suspect mouse or squirrel damage to the wiring. If the fridge fuse in the EBL is live both sides, I would suggest checking the wiring under the van from there to the fridge. In an extreme case I have been known to bypass the damaged wire, tapping in by the EBL and wire back to the circuit. In your case, the output wire for the fridge circuit back to the fridge. Use an oversized wire, as the ones used by the converter are usually barely capable of handling full load and will blow the fuses if the wire starts to get hot
 
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cantonalegod said:
all the fuses on the [Broken Link Removed] 130 under the passenger seat,
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I can't find the manual for the EBL 130, can you confirm this is the right number?

If it's like other EBLs, the fridge 12V heater element power goes through a relay inside the EBL. There is a wire to the EBL with a 20A fuse near the starter battery, usually to Pin1 of the 5-way connector on the front. If the 20A fuse is OK, you could check that power still reaches the EBL end, to rule out mouse damage.

The wire from the EBL to the fridge comes through a 4-way connector on the front. Could be Pin1 or Pin4 of the 4-way connector. When the engine is running, the fridge relay turns on, sending power to the fridge through that 4-way connector.

Most EBLs have a method of powering the fridge from the leisure battery. If a fuse is fitted in the appropriate slot, usually labelled 'AES/Kompressor Kuhlschrank', then the pin on the 4-way connector will be live all the time, not just when the engine is running. This is used if a compressor fridge is fitted instead of a 3-way fridge. You could use this to test the wire by sending power from the leisure battery through it.
 
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autorouter said:
I can't find the manual for the EBL 130, can you confirm this is the right number?

If it's like other EBLs, the fridge 12V heater element power goes through a relay inside the EBL. There is a wire to the EBL with a 20A fuse near the starter battery, usually to Pin1 of the 5-way connector on the front. If the 20A fuse is OK, you could check that power still reaches the EBL end, to rule out mouse damage.

The wire from the EBL to the fridge comes through a 4-way connector on the front. Could be Pin1 or Pin4 of the 4-way connector. When the engine is running, the fridge relay turns on, sending power to the fridge through that 4-way connector.

Most EBLs have a method of powering the fridge from the leisure battery. If a fuse is fitted in the appropriate slot, usually labelled 'AES/Kompressor Kuhlschrank', then the pin on the 4-way connector will be live all the time, not just when the engine is running. This is used if a compressor fridge is fitted instead of a 3-way fridge. You could use this to test the wire by sending power from the leisure battery through it.
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Sorry, yes, it's EBL30 not 130.
Thanks for the info, hopefully will be very helpful, will look again tomorrow.
 
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autorouter said:
Most EBLs have a method of powering the fridge from the leisure battery. If a fuse is fitted in the appropriate slot, usually labelled 'AES/Kompressor Kuhlschrank', then the pin on the 4-way connector will be live all the time, not just when the engine is running. This is used if a compressor fridge is fitted instead of a 3-way fridge. You could use this to test the wire by sending power from the leisure battery through it.
Click to expand...
The EBL30 has extra bits. It has two fridge relays, both powered from the starter battery feed as I said when the engine is running. The relay outputs go to Pin1 and Pin4 of the 4-way connector.

The difference is, when the engine stops, the supply from the leisure battery through the 'Kompr/AES Kuhlschrank' fuse goes to Pin4 but not to Pin1. So it depends on where the fridge output wire is located, ie which pin it is connected to.

Another thing to check is the D+ (engine running) signal from the alternator. This switches all the relevant relays like the fridge and split charge relay. It comes into the EBL on Pin3 of the 5-way connector, ie the centre pin. It goes out of the EBL on Pin2 of the 4-way connector, to tell the fridge that the engine is running so it switches to 12V power. With a multimeter, it should be about +12V when the engine is running, and about zero when the engine is stopped. There is a 2A fuse in the wire, should be next to the starter battery with the 50A and 20A fuses.

In case you didn't know, Sockets = 'Steckdosen'. There are two EBL fuses labelled 'Steckdosen 1' and 'Steckdosen 2'. Maybe recheck those fuses, and check with a meter if power is reaching the fuse slots.
 
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autorouter said:
The EBL30 has extra bits. It has two fridge relays, both powered from the starter battery feed as I said when the engine is running. The relay outputs go to Pin1 and Pin4 of the 4-way connector.

The difference is, when the engine stops, the supply from the leisure battery through the 'Kompr/AES Kuhlschrank' fuse goes to Pin4 but not to Pin1. So it depends on where the fridge output wire is located, ie which pin it is connected to.

Another thing to check is the D+ (engine running) signal from the alternator. This switches all the relevant relays like the fridge and split charge relay. It comes into the EBL on Pin3 of the 5-way connector, ie the centre pin. It goes out of the EBL on Pin2 of the 4-way connector, to tell the fridge that the engine is running so it switches to 12V power. With a multimeter, it should be about +12V when the engine is running, and about zero when the engine is stopped. There is a 2A fuse in the wire, should be next to the starter battery with the 50A and 20A fuses.

In case you didn't know, Sockets = 'Steckdosen'. There are two EBL fuses labelled 'Steckdosen 1' and 'Steckdosen 2'. Maybe recheck those fuses, and check with a meter if power is reaching the fuse slots.
Click to expand...
Thank you, really helpful, will check all this out tomorrow when the repair man comes back.
 
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