Heat damaged fridge wiring - spare part search

Discussion in 'Fridges & Ovens' started by TheCaller, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. TheCaller

    TheCaller Funster

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    I have a Dometic RM 5330 3-way fridge. The wire leading to the igniter has burned out. At least, I think that’s what it is – I don't think it's the flame failure device.

    Pictured is the burner unit with the cover removed. You can see the wire, now dropped to the floor, the connector next to it that was on the end of the wire, & the white ceramic block that the wire was connected to before it came off.

    20171022_162824.jpg

    The second picture shows the unit that is on the other end of that wire. I’ve tried to trace the Part No without success, but some of you are a lot better at tracing obscure stuff down than I am, especially if ebay in involved.

    20170916_155152.jpg

    It would be good if I could just replace the wire, but I expect I’ll need the whole unit. It’s difficult to tell from the burnt out end if it’s single core, just attached to the whole brass piece on the end of the ceramic block, or if it is core + outer sleeve, with the core connected to that little nub on the end of the brass piece & the sleeve connected to the outer section.

    I can probably tell a bit more if I start cutting the wire back, but one of you may know the answers already.

    Repair or replace?

    If replace, how much needs replacing? Can the burner end be sourced separately?

    Anyone know exactly which part it is & the best place to obtain one? If I can bypass the whole motorhome dealer - Dometic - part manufacturer supply chain then it will no doubt be a fraction of the retail dealer price. (y)

    That 2nd picture isn't upside down - it really is mounted that way up, to make the wire come out in the right direction. To save you standing on your head, the label says:
    Dometic
    IT130 289 0190-10
    HeaTec 261087
    SN 13010301074

    Embossed into the unit itself, it says:
    IGNItronic
    HeaTec
    Thermotechnik GmbH

    HeaTec made big industrial heaters, but I suppose a heater of any size needs much the same igniter if it's gas fuelled. Looks like Dometic just sourced a supply of ignitors from them.

    Any ideas greatfully received. (y)

    PS - I've reduced the size of the photos to make them forum friendly. If anyone would like to see the original high res versions because they may tell you more, ask away & I will provide.
     
  2. PhilandMena

    PhilandMena Funster

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  3. mitzimad

    mitzimad Funster

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    yes thats just the igintor on that model as you have a thermocouple as well
    i think it comes as one piece with the ceramics and probe
     
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  4. autorouter

    autorouter Funster

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    If it's like an older model I fixed, the two screws hold the plastic cover. The wire plugs into the module box underneath the cover. The wire, with the ceramic electrode, is a separate part from the electronic module.

    This module generates very high voltage pulses, like a spark plug supply. That's why there's an extra plastic cover over it.

    A flame has a much lower electrical resistance than fresh air. The module continuously senses the resistance. If it decides the flame is not present, it will keep generating spark pulses until the flame reappears.
     
  5. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    The igniter wire is single core with thick insulation. Assuming there's enough length to strip it back to unburnt wire you can perform a simple repair. Cut the brass insert out of a suitably sized "choc block" connector and use it to link your freshly-stripped wire to the metal sticking out of the ceramic. Zip tie the wire loosely to the pipe above to stop it moving about & breaking the connection (again!). There's little point in replacing a perfectly good igniter unit.
     
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  6. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    Nearly correct. A current passing through the ionised area of the flame is rectified - that's what the igniter detects :).
     
  7. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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  8. jezport

    jezport Funster

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    It just needs a new end crimping on
     
  9. gus-lopez

    gus-lopez Funster

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    Don't forget todisconnect it if repairing as it'll certainly make you jump if it sparks.:Eeek::LOL:
     
  10. TheCaller

    TheCaller Funster

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    Thanks all. I forgot to set a 'Watch' on the thread, so only just caught up.

    I've only skimmed the replies so far - I'll have a proper read through & respond this evening.
     
  11. mitzimad

    mitzimad Funster

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    not on that model its a thermocouple not flame rectification the thermocouple is clearly visible its the thicker copper wire running to the burner
     
  12. autorouter

    autorouter Funster

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    Both are required. The igniter flame detection stops the sparking when the flame lights. The thermocouple is a safety device that shuts off the gas supply if the flame fails.
     
  13. mitzimad

    mitzimad Funster

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    you are correct i was forgetting it was auto ignition
     
  14. TheCaller

    TheCaller Funster

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    Been a busy week - half the team either on holiday or off sick. :( So only just back to this.

    @mitzimad @autorouter This fridge is manual ignition. It only sparks while the button is depressed. While the button is depressed, it keeps sparking no matter whether there is a flame or not.

    Thanks. I've already got the manual, but it doesn't help with spares. Leisure Shop Direct list a long list of Dometic fridges, but jump from the 4000 series to the 6000 series. Apparently my model doesn't exist, nor do they recognise its product number. It could be that it's a model only fitted by continental installers & so not common enough in the UK for them to deal in its spares. I might give them a call, because the igniter is likely to be common across several models.

    I'll have a go at that tomorrow. Plenty of spare cable. What I will be short of is the additional insulation sleeve that is fitted to the final 2" of the cable at the burner end, which I suspect is additional heat protection. The current problem appears to have been caused by too much heat, so if I have to cut much of that away, it may fail again quite quickly. It has gone very brittle.

    That doesn't appear to have the cable part. That is probably good news, because it suggests that the cable & 'spark plug' is available separately, so I wouldn't have to buy the whole thing if the repair fails. Only trouble is, that supplier doesn't appear to stock the bit I do need. I think the electronics of the igniter are ok.

    Thanks everybody for your input so far.
     
  15. Treeeev

    Treeeev Funster

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    Just had a quick google for heat resistant sleeving and these popped up on Amazon. Maybe something here will fit?

    Cheers

    Trevor
     
  16. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    Heat that affects the connection is conducted from the flame through the electrode. Radiant or convected heat is minimal in that location. So a sleeve will provide support against vibration causing the wire to break but won't affect how hot it gets. A zip tie to the pipe above is likely to prevent another breakage.
     
  17. TheCaller

    TheCaller Funster

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    Took it all off the van last Sunday to make it easier to work on. Stripped the wire back, dropped the connecter in a hot citric acid solution to clean it up (didn't have a suitable replacement handy), soldered the wire onto it & crimped the clamp round the insulation. By which time it was dark outside.

    So it was yesterday before I could refit it in daylight. I have zip tied the wire to the pipe above, but what didn't show in the photos is that the wire rests on the rolled edge of the burner cover (which I had removed for the photo), so it is already supported as far as its own weight is concerned.

    How long the repair will last is an open question, but for now I have a fridge that lights. (y)

    Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Sorted! :D
     

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