Hazardous fumes when fridge vent covers are fitted?

[Spriddler]

I've resisted fitting mine on windy or very cold days on the basis that when the fridge is running on gas the fumes from the burner (CO, CO2 ?) will vent into the hab area. Many seem to fit them nevertheless.
(On the side window above the vent of my Cascade water heater there's an official sticker: 'Do not open when heater is operating on gas').

 

[pappajohn]

If the fridge is fitted correctly it should be sealed 100% from the hab area.... But it seems very few are. Probably too time consuming in such a restricted space so the attitude appears to be, near enough is good enough.

 

[WillH]

The winter covers are, in fact, vented, just a smaller area. It still allows warmed air and combustion fumes escape. Mine have been on since the end of November.

 

[Captain Pants]

Worth checking they’re on securely. Mine disappeared in one of the many recent storms never to be seen again. £23 to replace one cover.

 

[peterc10]

I've resisted fitting mine on windy or very cold days on the basis that when the fridge is running on gas the fumes from the burner (CO, CO2 ?) will vent into the hab area. Many seem to fit them nevertheless.
(On the side window above the vent of my Cascade water heater there's an official sticker: 'Do not open when heater is operating on gas').

In winter I use a vent cover on the bottom vent only. The top vent will be enough, especially since I have a fan on the top vent if the heat builds up. My fridge is properly sealed with all around the back of it including at top, bottom and both sides so no way to vent to inside the motorhome.

If an opening window is directly above the flue exit of a space or water heater the window should be fitted with a switch to automatically switch off the heater if the window is opened.

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[WillH]

On the problem of fridges not being sealed properly I found a solution. I had to remove my fridge for a couple of reasons and found the original sealing to be inadequate and very poorly fitted. It was formed of large cell foam with one adhesive strip, it was falling off for most of it's length.

I bought some 10mm x 40mm self adhesive neoprene faom, very close cell, I think I bought 5 m. Measuring very carefully the depth of the fridge and the space it was to fit in I carefully built up layers of foam to fill the gap, using a 40mm width then 20mm then 10mm. On refitting the fridge I pushed it up solid against the foam and then secured it having first made sure the fixing points were solid. Result, no draught, no leaks, and I cured an annoying thump which was the fridge actually moving in it's housing, that was four years ago, been fine since.

I replaced the 230v element at the same time, this required removal of the fridge anyway.

 

[Euro330]

I thought winter vents should only be used when fridge is on at -quite a lot degrees, read that some place for Dometic ?

 

[Nirvanauk]

I thought winter vents should only be used when fridge is on at -quite a lot degrees, read that some place for Dometic ?

I think Dometic say that covers should be used when the temp drops below 6 or 8 degrees.

 

[Euro330]

Yeah sound bout right, I was thinking -10 but there abouts.

 

[Nirvanauk]

I think Dometic say that covers should be used when the temp drops below 6 or 8 degrees.

Thats a plus not a minus!!

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[thebriars]

I've resisted fitting mine on windy or very cold days on the basis that when the fridge is running on gas the fumes from the burner (CO, CO2 ?) will vent into the hab area. Many seem to fit them nevertheless.
(On the side window above the vent of my Cascade water heater there's an official sticker: 'Do not open when heater is operating on gas').

I think you are not comparing like for like. A full height fridge on gas uses 16g of gas per hour, whereas a water heater will use anywhere between 160 and 400 g per hour.

 

[Spriddler]

Thanks all. It seems a bit 'Yer pays yer money...……..' so forth.
Mine's certainly not sealed judging by the cold draught that blows in around my feet.

If the fridge is fitted correctly it should be sealed 100% from the hab area.... But it seems very few are.

Of course the engineer would spot that at a Hab Check.

(Not that my m/h's ever had one).