Globecar Modifications (2 Viewers)

[CamperSue]

I've not noticed a problem with our Campscout, yet.
I did not work in the construction materials area but I do know that Styrofoam has been bonded to floor boards and sold for use separately under floor boards for a long time (ie Dow Floormate). In the van, if the surface below the styrofoam is uneven (ie ridges of sprayed foam), that may cause the problem since it would not be fully supporting the foam layer... of course, I could be very wrong !
However, since the van is well within the warranty, I would suggest that it is really down to Globecar to figure it out and solve the issue.

 

[Vanman]

No issues (touch wood) with our Roadscout floor.

 

[Blue Knight]

Team,

I need some advice for an insulation mod please.

Nicky and I went off for the weekend to test the van again and in doing so I noticed that there is a distinct cooling effect coming from the lower half of the rear doors.

The temps outside were circa 4-celsius at their worst point and, although the front and mid part of the van was extremely warm, the lower-rear of the van had a noticeable difference to the rest of the hab area.

The van coped really well with said temps but has anyone made a mod to insulate the lower rear doors (the upper half seem well insulated and OK).

For info: I have fully removed the steps and the central bed area (we're just using a 2 x single bed configuration for now) so the rear of the van is much more open than perhaps it was designed for.

TIA,

Andrew

Here's a pic of the rear with the beds raised today:

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[lorger]

Andrew, when we bought our van new we opted for the winter pack. This pack included a large internal screen for the back doors, it has two zips so you can access the garage. I'll try and find a photo for you if not I'll take one at the weekend, just tag me on Friday to remind me.
Its connected using poppers and so far we're very happy with it as no drafts.

 

[Blue Knight]

Andrew, when we bought our van new we opted for the winter pack. This pack included a large internal screen for the back doors, it has two zips so you can access the garage. I'll try and find a photo for you if not I'll take one at the weekend, just tag me on Friday to remind me.
Its connected using poppers and so far we're very happy with it as no drafts.

That's really kind of you - many thanks indeed. It will be good to see an image of your set-up so that I can look to buy/copy it.

All the best,

Andrew

 

[Wombles]

We also had the winter pack & have the rear door silver internal screen which fixes on to the rear of the cupboards & should work well. There are quite a few similar accessories - the one that springs to mind is Hindermann brand.
Yari https://www.facebook.com/yari.ghidone who takes a lot of the photos on his travels for Poessl & Globecar publications & website has been modding & insulating his van recently:
Posted in December:

Yari used 3cm polyester insulation.
Perhaps @Ralph-n-Bev can advise on door insulation as know that they did a well researched excellent job on their van conversion Understand that the right choice of materials can be important.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Minxy]

Team,

The van coped really well with said temps but has anyone made a mod to insulate the lower rear doors (the upper half seem well insulated and OK).

I think that Jez @jezport insulated all his door panels.

For info: I have fully removed the steps and the central bed area (we're just using a 2 x single bed configuration for now) so the rear of the van is much more open than perhaps it was designed for.

That won't help as there's no heating duct at the rear to get heat into that area so the cold air will sit in the void between the beds with the warmer air above. You could use some full height thermal curtains - we have a set on the rear doors of ours and they certainly help in cool temperatures, not only by adding insulation generally but also means that when you do have to open the rear doors not all of the heat escapes.

 

[CamperSue]

I think that Jez @jezport insulated all his door panels.

That won't help as there's no heating duct at the rear to get heat into that area so the cold air will sit in the void between the beds with the warmer air above. You could use some full height thermal curtains - we have a set on the rear doors of ours and they certainly help in cool temperatures, not only by adding insulation generally but also means that when you do have to open the rear doors not all of the heat escapes.

I'm not sure about Andrew's Summit 640 but our 2018 Campscout has 2 heating vents into the garage - but none into the upper bedroom area! I keep the garage vents almost closed since I don't need the garage heated too much. I plan to make and install two insulation curtains which will attach to each of the rear doors . I went for a single curtain on the top which does not open with the rear doors to keep heat in the bed area when I need to open the doors. The lower curtain will just keep it from getting too cold in there.

Of course, since I have made all these insulation layers, it has been unusually warm up here in the far north !

 

[lorger]

@Blue Knight

Andrew I found these pics on my iPad, if you want a close up of anything just ask.

Photo from the outside you can see the two zips on either side of the bottom this gives access to garage, since this photo I've put Velcro on top and bottom so the flap stays up.

The inside is more like a curtain/cloth material

I also have heating vents to the garage and one under the right hand bed in middle pic.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Blue Knight]

@Blue Knight

Andrew I found these pics on my iPad, if you want a close up of anything just ask.

Photo from the outside you can see the two zips on either side of the bottom this gives access to garage, since this photo I've put Velcro on top and bottom so the flap stays up.
View attachment 275912

The inside is more like a curtain/cloth material
View attachment 275913 View attachment 275914

I also have heating vents to the garage and one under the right hand bed in middle pic.

Wow, that's a fantastic piece of info - really useful. The drawback I have is that I have to throw the fluffy (aka the dog) in the back doors so I may stuff the back doors full of space insulation (so that the door cavities are full) and then place a screen across to be certain.

I'll see what I've got available and start work tomorrow.

That said, you've been a fab help and you've set me on the right path.

Very many thanks

Andrew

 

[RogerThat]

@lorger what a fantastic bit of kit! I've never seen one before - looks ideal

 

[CamperSue]

Nice one @lorger
One thing that I was concerned with was being able to get out of the rear doors in an emergency. The only problem that I can see with your curtain is that you can't access the rear door release.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[lorger]

@lorger what a fantastic bit of kit! I've never seen one before - looks ideal

its certainly a good bit of kit.

 

[lorger]

Nice one @lorger
One thing that I was concerned with was being able to get out of the rear doors in an emergency. The only problem that I can see with your curtain is that you can't access the rear door release.

I take your point but 1 i can open a side window quite easily and just roll out , 2 its only secure with poppers/studs which can be easily undone in seconds and then just pull it over the bed and your out, 3 I can fit through my roof window although im not sure swmbo could , 4 if we worry about all the things in life that can go wrong we wouldn't leave the house.

 

[CamperSue]

I take your point but 1 i can open a side window quite easily and just roll out , 2 its only secure with poppers/studs which can be easily undone in seconds and then just pull it over the bed and your out, 3 I can fit through my roof window although im not sure swmbo could , 4 if we worry about all the things in life that can go wrong we wouldn't leave the house.

It sounds like you have multiple exits so that's good. Hubbie is ex health and safety and it never goes away . We still leave the house, just carefully .

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Minxy]

Wow, that's a fantastic piece of info - really useful. The drawback I have is that I have to throw the fluffy (aka the dog) in the back doors so I may stuff the back doors full of space insulation (so that the door cavities are full) and then place a screen across to be certain.

I'll see what I've got available and start work tomorrow.

That said, you've been a fab help and you've set me on the right path.

Very many thanks

Andrew

If you have an old external windscreen cover you could try adapting that.

 

[Blue Knight]

I think that Jez @jezport insulated all his door panels.

That won't help as there's no heating duct at the rear to get heat into that area so the cold air will sit in the void between the beds with the warmer air above. You could use some full height thermal curtains - we have a set on the rear doors of ours and they certainly help in cool temperatures, not only by adding insulation generally but also means that when you do have to open the rear doors not all of the heat escapes.

Hi Mel, thanks for the info Thankfully we have a rear heating vent which is located in the stud wall at the front of the near-side bed. It's directed towards the doors and has quite a powerful jet of hot air.

This vent helps massively but it also creates air currents when the hot air hits the cold.

I'll ping the panels off tomorrow and see if my space insulation will fit - it's 15 or 20cm thick so that should ensure a good degree of insulation.

 

[Blue Knight]

If you have an old external windscreen cover you could try adapting that.

Not a bad idea at all

Come to think of it I have a nice new internal screen which came with the Pilote.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[CazPaul]

Best bet is to insulate inside the rear doors Andrew, 2 part spray foam would be the ideal but maybe messy.
Regarding the floor, best bet is not to walk on it
Seriously, should they have bonded a thick piece of timber down to fully cover the metal floor first, before adding the insulation?

 

[1ten]

Andrew, when we bought our van new we opted for the winter pack. This pack included a large internal screen for the back doors, it has two zips so you can access the garage. I'll try and find a photo for you if not I'll take one at the weekend, just tag me on Friday to remind me.
Its connected using poppers and so far we're very happy with it as no drafts.

We have the same on our Campscout Revolution and it makes a big difference in cold windy weather. it takes seconds to fit and remove. Ours is slightly different as it has a central zip. It’s still easy to get to the garage or get out in a rush from the inside, if we ever remember to leave the bike rack unlocke!
It seems well made and a good fit, it would be intersteing to see what it would cost to buy it aftermarket directly from Globecar.

 

[CamperSue]

I think the rear door insulating curtain is from Hindermann. Vancomfort has their catalogue and it's on page 23.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjABegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw24m6c7dO8Dk6x-ILOJ7sIN

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[CamperSue]

Ah ha ! Found it on eBay. Couldn't see it on the Vancomfort website but I'm using my phone, so it might be there and I just missed it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATO-B...693618?hash=item41b989dab2:g:xRsAAOSw-0xYStBN

 

[Blue Knight]

I keep the garage vents almost closed since I don't need the garage heated too much.

Just be a wee bit careful there Sue as (according to Truma) the vents are not designed to be closed because the heat will build up in the Truma 2-way distribution block; i.e. the bit on the Truma unit where the two air distribution outlets are located.

 

[CamperSue]

Just be a wee bit careful there Sue as (according to Truma) the vents are not designed to be closed because the heat will build up in the Truma 2-way distribution block; i.e. the bit on the Truma unit where the two air distribution outlets are located.

Thanks. Another manual needs reading again.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Blue Knight]

Best bet is to insulate inside the rear doors Andrew, 2 part spray foam would be the ideal but maybe messy.
Regarding the floor, best bet is not to walk on it
Seriously, should they have bonded a thick piece of timber down to fully cover the metal floor first, before adding the insulation?

Yep, I totally agree with you Paul regarding the floor but I think this is one of those design points which is conflicted between the R&D Team and those in the finance department. It seems to be the way of the motorhome world these days.

The German vans look good in the flesh but when you start pulling and dismantling stuff then I soon finding things I would do differently if it was me doing the building.

That said, they are still a few streets ahead of the likes of the Trigano stuff plus Swift and Elddis etc.

I'm still scraping the automotive foam of my drive since I injected the last van so I'm going to keep this simple and stuff the cavity to help prevent thermal movement. I also want to ensure that I can reverse any of my mods - just in case.

Thanks again Paul,

 

[Blue Knight]

Thanks. Another manual needs reading again.

It's not in the manual Sue. You'll find it tucked away on their internet site.

 

[Blue Knight]

........it would be intersteing to see what it would cost to buy it aftermarket directly from Globecar.

Ah, so your zipped thermal blind was part of the original cold winter package. I'll have to dig out the sales info but I think the cold weather pack was about £300 in total.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Blue Knight]

Today's task: Insulating the rear doors.

I've also included a few pics of how to remove the 2-stage retaining clips as not everyone will be familiar with them.

Materials: I used a 4m x 400mm (wide) x 180mm (depth when fully decompressed) of space insulation blanket but I had to reduce this to 120mm and compress it slightly so that it fitted the 75mm door cavity.

Observations:

1. The doors have no internal insulation properties whatsoever therefore it's no wonder that they lose so much heat energy when the temperature drops outside.
2. Once the doors are insulated and 'packed-out' then they become a lot more solid to the touch and no longer sound like pieces of hollow tin.
3. This fix will apply to any Fiat-based PVC as IMO if Globecar can't be arsed to do a proper job then it's unlikely that any other manufacturer will do better.

Here's the pics:

1. There are 12 x 2-stage retaining plugs to remove just like this one:

2. Split the two-stage head (I used two cutlery knives):

3. Twist the knives gently to pop the retainer:

4. Pull the plug and repeat the process eleven more times:

5. You now need to remove the door opener (round button). Place an old cloth against the metalwork so as not to damage the internal paint - then gently massage and pull the plastic card as close to the button as possible. The button will pop off:

6. Here's a pic of the actual door button behind the door skin - i.e. to ensure that you know what to pull and in want direction:

7. The main plastic panel will now drop off leaving you with the door cavities and some crappy bit of sound insulation material:

8. In my case I removed the black stuff to ensure that I could pack-out the appertures properly (Info: The black foam is 20mm thick while the door cavity has a depth of 75mm:

9. Here's a pic of the door cavity (looking upwards) which runs up the side of the window so as you can see there's lots of space to fill (The blue foam thing is the unlocking wire (contained within) which connects the top lock of the door to the central latch):

10. Next comes the packing phase with the silver lining of the space insulation facing outwards to the bodyshell (Note: the wires shown supply the two number plate light holders):

11. More bits of packing:

12. 30-minutes later and I've packed out everything, including the voids next to the windows and behind the locks etc etc. I then tape two white plastic covers over the appertures to seal it.

13. Then reapply rhe 12 retaining studs and push/bang the circular button back into its apperture - job done! Then go for a coffee and come back and do the next one:

 

[Neckender]

That’s a good job done Andrew and good pictorial instructions, I might insulate my doors too I’ve also got the plastic tool kit to remove buttons and trim.

John.

 

[CazPaul]

Great informative post Andrew. Will be really useful to a lot of people.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}