Getting under the surface

[CamperSue]

Hi all,
I am working to feed some cables through my Campscout and am looking for some help.
I have a portable freeview aerial and a portable satellite dish and am thinking of installing cables from the bedroom to the lounge area.

First question... I am trying to get into the narrow panel between the dining area and the bathroom. I have removed 5 screws bit the panel is still not budging. See attached photos.

Second question... has anyone fed cables over, under or through the bathroom - front to back. If so, where did you feed them through?

Thanks

 

[Neckender]

First question... I am trying to get into the narrow panel between the dining area and the bathroom. I have removed 5 screws bit the panel is still not budging.

If I remember right there are screws to be removed in the overhead locker at the side of the panel.

John.

 

[CamperSue]

First question... I am trying to get into the narrow panel between the dining area and the bathroom. I have removed 5 screws bit the panel is still not budging.

If I remember right there are screws to be removed in the overhead locker at the side of the panel.

John.

Thanks John,
The 2nd pic shows the 3 screws that removed in the overhead locker but the panel would not budge.

 

[Blue Knight]

Thanks John,
The 2nd pic shows the 3 screws that removed in the overhead locker but the panel would not budge.

There may be screws fitted but the challenge you have is that the whole Globecar cupboard units are affixed using a tongue and groove method between the adjoining woods.

If your Campscout is anything like my Summit then you'll have to dismantle the entire cupboard units which is a huge job.

All the best,

Andrew

 

[CamperSue]

There may be screws fitted but the challenge you have is that the whole Globecar cupboard units are affixed using a tongue and groove method between the adjoining woods.

If your Campscout is anything like my Summit then you'll have to dismantle the entire cupboard units which is a huge job.

All the best,

Andrew

Thanks Andrew... I really hope not!

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[Blue Knight]

Thanks Andrew... I really hope not!

When I began dismantling everything, during my various modification stages, I did it with the intention of first removing the screws before dislodging all of the various wood partitions but, sadly, it was not to be the case because the tongue and groove system stopped me in my tracks.

This is one of the reasons why IMO the Globecar is so well put together because you can't tell that it's tongue and groove until you access certain areas from inside-out, which I eventually did.

The Campscout peeps may be able to help further but if yours is anything like mine then it's not coming out.

Where's John, he'll know

 

[CamperSue]

When I began dismantling everything, during my various modification stages, I did it with the intention of first removing the screws before dislodging all of the various wood partitions but, sadly, it was not to be the case because the tongue and groove system stopped me in my tracks.

This is one of the reasons why IMO the Globecar is so well put together because you can't tell that it's tongue and groove until you access certain areas from inside-out, which I eventually did.

The Campscout peeps may be able to help further but if yours is anything like mine then it's not coming out.

Where's John, he'll know

John's already answered and mentioned screws in the overhead locker. I've already removed three that I found there but still no luck removing the panel. Perhaps I need to pull harder but I'm reluctant in casel there are other screws that I can't see.
Hoping Minxy Girl might have an idea. If not, I'll try brute force and ignorance .

 

[pappajohn]

Why do you need the panel off?

 

[CamperSue]

Why do you need the panel off?

I want to feed tv cables through the hole which I believe is designed for that purpose.
Also, I just like taking things apart! ?

 

[pappajohn]

I want to feed tv cables through the hole which I believe is designed for that purpose.
Also, I just like taking things apart! ?

Can't you access it by removing the silver/grey CBE plate and working through the hole?
Just an idea.

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[CamperSue]

Can't you access it by removing the silver/grey CBE plate and working through the hole?
Just an idea.

That's an option but I'd really like to see if I have access to feed cables through walls. If I can't get the panel off, that's my next step... thanks!

 

[CamperSue]

Okay, so brute force was the answer!

Neckender was correct... there are 3 screws in the cabinet to the right - I had already removed those. The problem was that the front panel is so tight that I couldn't move it until I removed the power point so that I had enough grip to generate enough force to pull the panel. I could only wedge it out part way and didn't want to damage the edge of the panel or the walls. However, I could see that there wasn't an obvious route for cabling.

Back to the drawing board for cabling plans .

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[movan]

Are you near to any of the really handy funsters .. ? irnbru do you have any idea? You are amazing at knowing answers re van stuff. (My geography is rubbish so sorry if you miles away.)

 

[Blue Knight]

How about threading the cable(s) from underneath the dinnette seats then rearward along the internal shell of the van, over the loo housing before threading it back through the rear shell (access via the loo locker) before reappearing under the beds, next to the wheel arch.

I used this route for when I added the third leisure battery. There are pics in the Globie modification section but I'll try and dig some others out for you.

 

[Blue Knight]

Here's a pic of the wire that is threaded via the lower shell but then reappears temporily around the loo housing before vanishing back into the bed and rear wheel arch.

It's a tricky job to thread the wire but it becomes much easier when you use a straightened coat hanger to guide your wire(s).

The left side goes down to the lower internal shell and meets up under the dinnette seats:

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[CamperSue]

Here's a pic of the wire that is threaded via the lower shell but then reappears temporily around the loo housing before vanishing back into the bed and rear wheel arch.

It's a tricky job to thread the wire but it becomes much easier when you use a straightened coat hanger to guide your wire(s).

The left side goes down to the lower internal shell and meets up under the dinnette seats:

View attachment 320008

Excellent Andrew, that looks doable. I will check tomorrow to see if I can find the access points.

 

[Blue Knight]

Excellent Andrew, that looks doable. I will check tomorrow to see if I can find the access points.

I've taken a pic of where my wire comes out from the lower shell, just right of the boiler and directly underneath the 240v EHU hook-up power line. (It's the thin black wire).

The bright silver stuff is aftermarket insulation which I have added but your van will likely show an open shell which you can then use as a tunnel for your wires.

There'll be a partition between the rear seat area and the loo housing so make sure that you put a flood light in the loo locker so that you can use the light to identify a route through the partition but, in theory, you should be able to identify and follow the pipes and wires which come from the rear of your washroom.

Hope this helps,

Andrew

 

[CamperSue]

I've taken a pic of where my wire comes out from the lower shell, just right of the boiler and directly underneath the 240v EHU hook-up power line. (It's the thin black wire).

The bright silver stuff is aftermarket insulation which I have added but your van will likely show an open shell which you can then use as a tunnel for your wires.

There'll be a partition between the rear seat area and the loo housing so make sure that you put a flood light in the loo locker so that you can use the light to identify a route through the partition but, in theory, you should be able to identify and follow the pipes and wires which come from the rear of your washroom.

Hope this helps,

Andrew

View attachment 320023

Thanks again Andrew.

 

[Minxy]

Sorry to be late to the party!

You've managed to remove the panel ... well done! When I wanted to install some extra 12v sockets in the rear I managed to feed the wires along inside the upper lockers behind the top plastic back mouldings (removing screws as necessary) and found a metal coat-hanger was most definitely one of the best tools in my kit to get the wire behind the locker partitions. I used a similar method to feed the wire for the large cab light I installed too.

 

[CamperSue]

Sorry to be late to the party!

You've managed to remove the panel ... well done! When I wanted to install some extra 12v sockets in the rear I managed to feed the wires along inside the upper lockers behind the top plastic back mouldings (removing screws as necessary) and found a metal coat-hanger was most definitely one of the best tools in my kit to get the wire behind the locker partitions. I used a similar method to feed the wire for the large cab light I installed too.

Thanks Mel,
Actually, I didn't take the panel off all the way. It was so tight that I was worried that I would damage the surface of the walls.
I'll take a look at laying the cable behind the back moldings but if Andrew's route through the toilet cartridge locker is available in the Campscout, it might be easier.
Either way, I'm just off to unwind a coat hanger...?

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[GPW]

Either way, I'm just off to unwind a coat hanger..

Years ago I bought a coil of zinc coated 1.5mm solid steel wire from a garden centre or building supplies, it's soft enough to bend hooks and eyes into but stiff enough to hold it's own weight, I've used that for so much cabling, hooking dropping items etc that it's the most useful tool I have, and it coils back into a handy 6" or so for the toolbag.

 

[CamperSue]

Years ago I bought a coil of zinc coated 1.5mm solid steel wire from a garden centre or building supplies, it's soft enough to bend hooks and eyes into but stiff enough to hold it's own weight, I've used that for so much cabling, hooking dropping items etc that it's the most useful tool I have, and it coils back into a handy 6" or so for the toolbag.

GPW
I didn't require the coat hanger since I have rolls of fencing wire - some thing, some thicker (another advantage to living in the countryside).